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The deck on both accomodates a 144" wide main battle tank. 102" is legal width. Suggest you search Truck Trader etc for an oilfield lowboy with a really long neck, they are out there.

Frequntly reported age related failures on the FMTVs off the top of my head: primer pump, voltage regulator, rear brake cans, cab latch, cab hyd pump, air brake valves behind front bumper, air brake valves behind drivers step, air brake valves above rear axle, wheel CTIS valves, engine fan...

The light switch is not wired through the ignition switch. The pushbotton light switches have a very high failure rate. If the keyed ignition was working ok for the Guard, they way it is wired is not you issue, although it may have failed. Stonewall don't forget the injector pump solenoid...

If the Guard slaved it that means the batteries might be no good. Have them tested and report back.

Buy some NOS parts from a reputable vendor. I suggest Mullins Jeep Parts. ArmyJeepGuy on ebay.

Welcome. Use the "advanced search" button, use keyword "brush" and select search within the FMTV forum. This will give some ideas. I really like FMTVs, but to use one in fire service straight from TFS is very risky. They are VERY UNRELIABLE until numerous air brake components are replaced...

Options: Tear into it yourself, let your PD's maintenance organization look at it, or, (preferably) let a local hydraulic shop do it. It should be a super simple valve that may take a pro an hour to rebuild. Maybe a call to the shops at Red River Arsenal would get you somewhere, that is where...

Are you using a US made coil (not chrome), have you replaced the condenser, is the distributor vent system working.

If timing were the issue, all the cylinders would suffer low compression. Often on old engines, the valve guides will get gunked up and the valves will suddenly not seat properly.

If you need assistance with logistics in Houston I can help.

I did a thread on fixing that, search "Hydraulic" in the FMTV forum.

Please Please scan a copy and upload the PDF, I need this as well.

Yes, that is the starter thermal switch that gave the Army fits very early in the FMTV life cycle. No promises, but that switch is as you say "likely inop". No promises, though. Next, if it were me, I would follow the "won't crank" troubleshooting tree in the TM.

Check to see if the thermal switch is bypassed on the starter, if not, bypass it. Connect two small white wires together that lead to a device on the starter not related to the solenoid. Disconnect battery before doing this. If that does not help, wiggle the relays in the Power Distribution...

The first gen is made of steel and has the unshippable huge one piece bows, and has silly "leaf spring" appearing supports that go between the bows. Second gen is all aluminum and breaks completely down.

If you obtain the second generation bow setup, the stringers that go from bow to bow are simple aluminum tube, which you could replace with longer? tube for your application.

I have ALWAYS had problems getting stuff hauled out of RRAD at a reasonable price. DLA has no problem paying $4/mile for hauling a HMMWV, so most all the trucks going there with stuff get a load out as well.

Picture please. Does the taper on the lug nut fit nearly through the lug hole?

If this truck is anything but a hobby vehicle I would suggest having a valve body on the shelf ready to install. One day the oil trick won't fix it.

Sweet, I just got one too and love it. I have an extra wheel/tire if you need it. They are kinda heavy at 10,000 lbs, I gave the 6.5 Chevy pickup a break and had mine hauled in.