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I you had 24 volts at K1-Y and nothing at TB5-16 then it could be a problem with the connection between P6 & J6. With the set OFF and Dead Crank in OFF unplug P6 from J6. Access from the right door under the gauge panel. You'll need to turn the locking collar on P6 CCW to unlock it before you...

Leave it plugged in and check all the other points along the path. If what you get for measurements points to a P6/J6 problem then we'll need to do some resistance checks with the set OFF.

TB5 is the long terminal strip behind the row of relays J6 Visible in this pic. P6 is plugged into it from underneath the compartment.

If no 24 volts at S5-5 with the set running then there is a problem with the 24 volts getting from K20 the Oil Pressure relay all the way to S5-5. Here is the path from K20-6 all the way to S5-5. With the set running start at K20-6 verify 24 volts DC is there and continue down the path until...

A friend of mine ended up with an extra new Alt Mecc generator generator head for doing the 831 conversion. He has no need for it and is looking to sell it. If interested contact Mark at: mark.neil@verizon.net He's located in S.E. Massachusetts update: sold

I assume when you say "nothing" it means the contactor lamp did NOT illuminate. So.... 1) When you had the set running where there any Fault lamps illuminated. If unsure restart the set and verify no Fault lamps are illuminated. Are they all off? 2) Test the Fault Monitor by putting S1 in...

Test the Contactor Closed Lamp to verify it's working. To do so put S1 in Prime/Run and press on the lamp lens to verify it illuminates. With the set running and HOLDING S5 up does the contactor lamp illuminate?

No problem. I have them in stock ready to ship.

It's a bad SLC100 Governor Controller.

I assume the video was normal running and then moving S1 to the STOP position? Still using the factory SLC100 Governor Controller?

No tipping issues at all. I roll it outside 2-4 times a month. Never had an issue. Concrete floor onto asphault with about a 1/2" drop. With a design tweek you could locate the casters farther apart if it makes you feel better. The casters were take off's from work. As I recall they were...

Lots of great ideas in this thread --> Casters My implementation is post # 3 Simple 2x6 construction and 4 heaver casters. Works great and doesn't waste any precious floor space in my garage. If you go the casters route be sure to use 2 fixed and two swiveling casters and not 4 swiveling casters.

The SX460 won't work with the 004. The 004 Exciter Stator resistance spec is 4.5 to 5.5. ohms, nominally 5.0 ohms. The lowest resistance exciter the SX460 can work with is 10 ohms or higher. It's doesn't have the current output needed to drive 5 ohm 004's Exciter Stator.

You can always replace the fuse holder with whole new one.

PM sent for the MOV - Kurt

Fuse mod is in there so you don't need that. If you need a MOV let me know. I can mail you one for $5. They could have started the set without the fuse. That fuse is for the alternator output. It would run fine without it. It just wouldn't charge the batteries. I see is has the heavy duty...

You can always buy a Killawatt meter and plug it into the outlet to monitor the frequency.

Is the engine RPM steady or is it hunting?

That's not the well nut. The well nut is at the other end of that hose where it attaches to the backside of the fuel tank. It's can be see here below the oil filter and the yellow butterfly valve for draining the crankcase. Oodles of good info here ---> Ultimate Well Nut Info

The Well Nut that leaks is in the engine bay where the drain line is hooked up to the tank. Based on your pics I'd say that's what's leaking, the fuel is running under the tank and wicking up the sides of the tank.