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You can force the starter to keep cranking by disconnection the inverter output wires on the three terminals on top of the inverter. Might want to tag them so you can hook them up correctly later. Colt beat me to it :)

I see you are holding down the decompression lever and cranking it. That lever is normally only used when pull starting it. Should be no need when using the starter.

The starter cutting out is due to the inverter starting to make power. A good sign! Its AC output goes to the coil of K15 the starter cut out relay.

Can you post pictures of which hole you have the spring in? You might try holding the actuator in the WOT position and try to start it. If it starts then slowly release the actuator and let the governor take over and see if it continues to run.

PM sent

That doesn't look good. Time to investigate.

I have a 2-wire remote start kit that will be available shortly. I already ship kits for the 803 & 803. I just need to do the final checkout of the 804 version in an 804 before it's ready to ship. Weather is finally getting more tolerable here to do that checkout. Kurt

Shipped!

You indicated you get ~19 volts across the voltage regulator (A1) terminals 5 & 6 when flashing (S1 in START engine running). If so the reading of 19 volts is way too high. It ought to be ~7.6 volts. Since the DC voltage you are reading at A1 across 5 & 6 is so high it tells me there is likely...

I have lots of the leftmost "relay" (S14) available. S14 Frequency Trip Switch "Relay" I also have some of the other relays in the relay row too. New.

Solid State Relay Locations...

At first glance there are a few issues that come to mind. 1) Inadequate space for transformer based LF inverters 2) It would need to be compatible to accept the dual ~200V 3 phase power generated by the PMA. 3) The engine would probably need to run at full speed since there would be no feedback...

I got my hands on an inverter to tear into to locate where the TM K3, K6 & K8 are inside the inverter. My preliminary findings are.. K8 in the TM is K3 and Q7 on the main control board in inside the inverter K3 in the TM is K2 on the main control board in inside the inverter K6 in the TM is K5...

Yes you'll need a TRC A1 to work with that T1 Transformer and Voltage Adjust potentiometer. S12 is the Frequency Select Switch. It's on a panel behind the drop down gauge panel.

The MEP-804A and MEP-804B may have either the Libby A1 or a TRC A1. Depending on which is installed when the generator was built the correct R16, T1 and Voltage Adjust potentiometer are installed to match the A1. Since you have a Libby A1 then you need to check the following to be sure your...

You'll need to use a different MOV than the one used on the 802's and 803's due to the higher voltage that the TRC Voltage Regulator is powered by. The 802/803 VR gets powered by ~ 60 VAC whereas the TRC 804's regulator is powered with ~ 155 VAC. I'd recommend something like a MOV-20D241K It...

See post #4 and let us know what you get.

Yikes!!!! What a mess!

The "MOV mod" is not in any TM. It's a modification I suggested a few years back to be added to MEP-802A's and MEP-803A's. It's intent is to prevent voltage spikes from the their Quad Windings from damaging the Voltage Regulator. The "Fuse Mod" only protects the gen head from damage but does...

?? In Post #1 and Post #2 you said... Hello, is there anybody’s out there that can help me find a electronic governor control for a MEP 804B any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Hello out there, I replaced A5 with the instructions provided unfortunately I still don’t get any power I...