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Yes. Northern Tool dropped the one that was popular. A place replacement heads can be purchased from is Mecc Alte I've installed them and they are 99.9% the same as the Norther Tool one. Just a bit shorter in length which makes installation a touch easier. Here is the model that I've used when...

New design but no "mad new tech" :LOL: They are very basic cards. Relays, resistors and diodes. Would use newer style higher current replaceable relays used on other military gensets and other components readily available now. Also designed with much larger traces on the PCB to eliminate the...

The panel lights going out when it stalls is weird. Wouldn't think S1 could cause that.

I'm looking into making replacement A4 & A5 cards for the MEP-003A , MEP-004A, MEP-005A & MEP-006A. I've already designed the replacement A4 for the 004,006,006. Please post up if you have interest in these cards. If there is enough interest in each I'll look into making them. These...

I found a pic only showing 1 jumper. As I recall the switch has some of 2,4,6,8 jumpered internally. The external jumper completed connecting all 4 together. I had some of the switch's and that's the way I seem to recall them. edit: I found a picture I posted quite a while back and it only...

Forgot to put that in. $180 shipped. Cost in higher than the SLC-100 replacement I sell due to the additional parts costs and wire harness for the 60 Hz version.

I am building 4 more Governor Controller kits for doing the MEP-831A conventional head swap. Includes custom electronic Governor Controller to maintain 60 Hz, wire harness, load sensors, restores Overload detection, Load meter operation. Includes installation hardware, installation...

If you don't find the cap you can easily replace the fuse holder with a new commonly available one from many parts suppliers. A real good hardware store may have one. Needs to be rated for 30 amps 250 volts minimum.

That is a good reading. Exciter winding looks good.

I've hit that accidentally as well as many others. You're in good company :LOL:

Use your meter and check for power at all the points I posted a few posts back.

As Ray mentioned it need a simply droop adjustment to the governor. Just requires a 5mm hex key at least 5 inches long. The RPM hunting can be caused by that adjustment being incorrect. The -24 TM explains how to adjust it. Basically remove a pipe plug to access the adjustment, use the 5mm...

CB1 may have tripped

A post for them should be put in the CLASSIFIEDS section of the forum.

The resistance reading is taken across the wires removed from the terminals. Not across the terminals of A1. Have a good evening!

Correct. Remove wires from A1 terminals 1 & 3 and measure the resistance between the two wires. Set not running of course ;)

Those are the wrong fuses for the 804. The FNQ-R-3 is a Slow blow 3A time delay fuse The correct fuse for the 804 is a KTK-3 which is a Fast blow 3A fuse

Be sure you are on CR1. The labelling on that assembly in the back left can be deceiving.

What color is the back of the S1 switch? Is is square or round? Do you have a hand held voltmeter handy? If so we'll need to take a series of voltage walk to see where you are losing the 24 volts when you release S1. With the meter set to DC volts and it's negative lead connected to chassis...

Exciter Stator Between 28.657 and 38.771 ohms