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Two possibilities... TECHNICAL MANUAL INTERMEDIATE [FIELD] [DIRECT AND GENERAL SUPPORT] AND DEPOT LEVEL MAINTENANCE Liberated Manuals - Search Results for 007A

I haven't mounted them yet. They are a pair of wall wart Battery Tender chargers I had laying around so they are just plugged into the AC inlet and laying on the floor of the skid.

That's the exact same place I installed my NOCO power inlet port on my 802A

Billy2642 has made good on this. I received a replacement 75902LV in the mail today.

I don't have any specific recommendation on a transfer switch. There is such a variety of them available with various features such as load shedding and other feature sone might desire in the transfer switch for their specific application and generator used. A transfer switch or other...

There is no fuse in that circuit. The two small wires on the front screws of MT4 go directly to M4. The wire numbers are 158A & 159A. M4 is a voltmeter that measures the small DC voltage that develops across MT4 while the battery is discharging and charging. After starting the genset the meter...

None of the switches have any affect on the battery charge/discharge meter. That meter is connected directly across the MT4 shunt in the right front corner behind the meter panel. MT4 is a shut (very low resistance resistor). The voltage drop across it is measured by the charge/discharge...

Anytime :)

The gap should be zero when it's off. IE the target on the arm should be against the magnet when the set is stopped.. When the set is running at no load the gap should be 5/16" There is an adjustment procedure in the -13 TM on how to set the gap at no load. The gap has to be set correctly so...

K15 is the starter cut out relay. It's normal for the LED inside ot to be on once the set has started. I see a few issues in the picture 1) The green spring for the governor is in the wrong hole in the arm. 2) The gap between the magnet and the target is way to wide. It should be 5/16"...

Glad to help! Yes the PN for the MOV is correct.

The MOV mod is actually something I came up with a few years ago. It's purpose is to protect the VR from shorting out. Something the Fuse Mod doesn't do. If the fuse were to pop the MOV should still be good.

Shortly. Need to do one last test in an 804 before releasing the system. I want to be sure the final version of the wire harness is correct.

The manual you want is TM-9-6115-672-14. You can download a copy of it from ----> 806B Operators Manual or from here---> 806B Operators Manual

No problem at all. Now the OP has his answer. :)

Guy means that you need to hold the Engine Control switch (S1) in the START position until the engine starts AND the Oil Pressure has risen and is stable. Then release S1 the Engine Control Switch. Holding S1 in START after it starts is OK. The starter automatically cuts out after the engine...

If the 12volt loads aren't too big you could used a 24v to 12v buck converter to power the 12v loads. That way you'll be pulling power from both batteries and will help keep them balanced. Buck converters are very inexpensive.

Back shells installed. These are listed for sale in the Classifieds in the "Tools" category. Here ---> CIM Brightness Tool

An ATS is basically is an automated mechanical power switch that will switch from utility power to your generators output power upon a utility power failure to maintain power to your house. The Remote Start system is used to cause the generator to start upon the ATS sensing a failure of utility...

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