Search results

What I'm saying is you can watch that fuel control unit assembly and if it's moving just grab it with your fingers and hold it in one position see if you can get it to idle and stay running not cut out.

You said checking the fuel shut off. I'm going to guess you're talking about the fuel control unit assembly. If that's hanging up in the idle position that could cause surging you might want to double check that again. You can run the engine with the timing shutdown rod cover off and watch to...

Getting ready to say goodbye to the 373 shop trailer. Yea I have to move it but it is a close to home move at 30 mins. from me.

With just a flat blade screwdriver you can take the timing shutdown rod cover off and be able to see the position of the fuel control unit assembly. You can also check the timing without any tools and that cover off.

I don't have to see any other trucks this is got my vote.

I never had trouble with using low range reverse in my 939 series as long as I was on solid ground / pavement etc.

Don't mean to discourage anybody from printing a seal driver. It just doesn't need to be printed to the specs that are in the TM's. Just make the base flat without the inner lip that holds the seal. Make it either the same size as the seal in diameter or even larger. And then beef up the edges...

Well as we found out you don't really need any special tools to install the ctis seals or the inner hub seal. The inner hub seal can be installed with a hammer and a piece of 2x4 or just a hammer. If you've got one of the seals you'll see it has an outer lip where a lot of other trucks the inner...

I forget what post it was but I was asking you to remove the return line that comes off the head and goes up to the T on the secondary. If I remember I told you to remove that line at the T and stick that line in a gallon jug or a jug and turn on the in tank pump. Here I was wanting to see if...

Okay we're definitely talking about the 12-point cap on the side of the hydraulic head not the interference fit hex head that's on the top. Yes that's why I said you got to be careful that little spring. Then there's the delivery valve inside of there. Has a slot in it and a right size flat...

The delivery valve is that 12-point cap on the side of the head facing the firewall. Underneath there is a small spring and the delivery valve. It's kind of like a needle in seat. It can be removed and cleaned and the seat also cleaned.

This is tread is getting pretty long and you still haven't found the problem. Without reading through the whole threat again did you happen to check that delivery valve on the side of the head?

Pool chlorine then flood with water. Never washed this one before so the mold was looking good so this one soft brush before rinse.

Got a deposit on it. I lowered it to 5k and they were happy.

Was a real nice day today so I washed the storage trailer. Did the other two last week so done with washing for a while now.

Can't remember where I got them but I got the shim kits pretty cheap so I got one shim kit for each hub. Yes you can reuse your old ones if they're in good shape it might not need to add or subtract any shims. You can always resell to somebody on the board any extra kits after you're done or...

Maybe I should have mentioned you need to buy the dot Synflex fittings to fit the dot Synflex line. And you make it longer than the original loop it down more. Daydreaming one day and I thought if I use the push lock fittings and if I carried an extra 6 ft piece of Synflex line I could always...

Myself Napa and Synflex line and one 90* Synflex fitting for final filter and one 45* fitting for the Head. They even make push lock fittings if you want to pay the price.

On the secondary fuel canister there is the over pressure valve. On the Head there is the over flow valve and the booster on the IP is the bypass valve. The bypass on the booster opens when there is an over pressure in the booster pump and it just reroute the fuel back to the booster pump inlet...