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My opinion is that the Ibis bar is fine for HMMWVs and such, but the margin of safety with 20,000+ lbs flat tows is not enough. With the medium tow bars, it is one less thing to be concerned about. Looks like a nice truck followed you home.

When is the last time you repacked the front wheel bearings? If the center housing is full of oil, it is very unlikely the ring and pinion is shot.

I have two hub to hub take out 880 front ends that need new homes. Isn't clicking noise usually the u-joints in the knuckle? Ring and Pinion issues are usually growling and howling sounds.

Green lights as in on the transmission controller? Yes, if you follow along in the thread, that is the problem we had to overcome. Now sounds like you too. If your diagnostics lead you to believe your controller is bad, and Suprman can't save the day like he did for us, send your controller...

Come get this thing. Mission accomplished.

All transmission solenoids in spec!! 3 ohms at transmission, 4 ohms with chassis harness. Whew! Trans does not have a burned solenoid. Starting to think the ecu was having a bad day.

Believe me, having time to work on this is a rare gift due to the slump in the oil and gas industry. Studied the WTEC ii manual provided by mkcoen. What a huge aid that is. I now know all the solenoids are indeed isolated fron ground, switched on the high and liow side, and should be around 3...

While the cab was raised for harness inspection, I thought it would be a good time to install the new voltage regulator. NOT! The newer Niehoff N4307 regulator is not backwards compatible with the OEM N1506-1 alternator. My truck has the newer N1511 alternator, and the N4307 is what is on it.

Suprman has discussed this before, here are some pictures of the troublesome thermal switch on the starter. Mark's truck has a new starter, and the leads for the no longer present thermal switch were hanging loose, which raised alarm bells at first. After inspection of my truck with OEM...

More diagnostics today while Newark Electronics ships AMP connector parts to fix the connector mentioned previously. At the transmission, there is a large bulkhead connector. I disconnected it and ohmed out each pin to ground, both going to the transmission and the chassis harness. There was...

Why that would be TM9-8014.

Behind the dashboard, the Allison harness has a branch that leads to the instrument cluster. The connector in my hand is on the Stewart and Stevenson-supplied half of the connection. I believe this is the feed for the speedometer and who knows what else. I have fondled most of the rest of...

The Independent Allison controller rebuilder said "look for problems with the transmission harness". That did not take long . . .

Eureka! Ya'll think this might be the issue? Trans brain (reman 2002) is a goner.

Your low side pressure is way too high. The condenser fans come on when the high pressure switch calls for them, because the high side is getting too high. If the install was done by someone else, and you do not know if it ever worked right, you better start at square one. Get a copy of the...

It will crank with two 12 volt batteries in series for 24 volts. 12 volts is too little. I bet that single 12 volt battery was bubbling real good after being charged with 24 volts!

Repairing those regulators is a lost art. I would carefully inspect the Cannon connectors going into the regulator from the chassis harness, look for damaged or corroded wires/connections. You are on the right track going to the solid state regulator, that will most likely fix the problem...

You have correct original 24 volt Auto-lite starter, distributor, 25 amp generator, and voltage regulator. No idea what the white thing is. I think group 51R is the only battery that will fit in the battery box which is designed for the military 2HN battery.

Ah, the relief in the fuel tank, if you had a winch it would be apparent, the cable routes there.

Lighting is 12 volt, Starting is 24 volt. Transmission brain is 24 volt.