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Have you actually tried to turn the engine ? Put the transfer-case in neutral and the transmission in 4th gear or 2nd, then turn the driveshaft between the tranny and transfer-case with a bar. Make sure the engine kill is pulled out.

Actually I drain my oil every year also. Just knowing that with synthetic oils I don't need too is just extra insurance for me.

The first picture is the TM 9-8651 . The second picture shows a few of my MV manuals. The ones I don't have room for in my cabinets.

Actually it is the first "Bendix" Air-Pak used on the deuce and five tons. Air-Pak is a trademark name from Bendix just like "Posi" is a GM name. This was in the TM 9-8651 . I have an original almost mint condition manual. The only problem was the glue holding the pages together had dried up...

OK Jason, your just being "obtuse" right now. You know what I meant. I mean I posted the thing and even highlighted it for goodness sake !

That's what I said didn't I ? I guess I forgot to add the word "multiply" .

David, weren't you working on a better clip to hold the button on with ? What happened to that ?

According to TM 9-8651 (1956) the Air-Pak has a "multiple" factor of 10 between the inlet and outlet pressures. What I had stated in my post was that standing hard on the brake pedal I was only able to reach 800psi with no air. With air and applying the brakes normally I was able to get 1600psi...

Actually there is NO big rig or bus today that uses the system that cars did. They all have anchored brakes. The reason is that the "floating anchor is not strong enough to handle the pressures needed on something like a 8" to 10" wide brake pad. The modern shoes have actual bushings in the...

Totally agree with you about the engine oils, especially the synthetics. I was still in the Marines in the early 1980's and they also went crazy with testing the oil. We also would replace the engine oil even if the truck had not moved for a year ! I remember arguing with this Gunnery Sargeant...

That is a very nice set-up you have there ! I plan on something similar for mine.

What you can do is get three longer bolts and start them in (spaced around the plate). Then when you have the pressure plate closer to the flywheel you install the correct bolts. Of course remove the longer bolts. Remember to use a clutch alignment tool.

What I'm saying is I have a brake pressure gauge on my dash. When I apply the brakes without air pressure I can only get it to go to 800psi standing on it. With the truck full of air pressure (120psi) I can get 1600psi pressure from that gauge easily. Does that mean that there is a 2 to 1 ratio...

I have a brake pressure dash gauge on my deuce and without the engine running (no air) I can get it up to 800psi. With the engine running (full air) I can get it up to 1600psi .

I mentioned before that maybe the rings had not been sized to the bore. If they had not been sized then when the engine got hot and the rings expanded they would touch and have to expand against the cylinder walls. Since the cylinder walls aren't going anywhere the rings themselves would be...

This is a remanufactured 5 ton disc, set-up for a 2.5 ton deuce. Look at the hub, it is smaller then the 5 ton.

Or other really cool things like cranes and winches !

I'll try and adapt up this tank from a M105 trailer for my "ping" tank for the slubber tube. The main hose will go into the side shown here with the 1" pipe and the two side holes will allow the air to escape or be drawn into the air-filter. Then the bottom hole will be fitted with a drain valve...

I wonder how that manual control valve is actuated ? Cable or rod ?