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You will find the pressures are about identical between them.

You would be surprised what a lot of shops consider a proper rebuild to be ! I always replaced all bushings, all thrustwashers and Torringtons and all seal rings including the Teflon ones. Also all steels and fibers. A lot of shops reuse the steels and fibers that they feel are OK. You go to a...

The older M series Allison was a close ratio 6 speed. Since the torque range of this engine is real small you could adjust the shift points to correspond with the right RPM range. The "Dual Range" Hydromatic which this truck has, has a wider range of gear ratios. Also without a torque converter...

That top ring is almost polished ! You don't have many miles on this engine correct ? That ring should have a dull finish on it if it had broken in correctly. Also, what is going on with all the carbon on the piston ? I'm beginning to think this engine was wet staking. Way too much fuel. It...

Also the frame is bigger on the 5 ton to handle the extra loads. So your brackets might not fit correctly.

Why not just use the bus ? You will spend so much more converting this old truck to something that any modern truck or bus could do now. Save the truck for a collector and not destroy it. Get a bus and convert it ! Used school busses are cheap and easy to convert.

I'm sorry rosco, but a "real" mechanic would not be using this trick. He would know the dangers of damaging the seals and his BACK if something went wrong. With the cheap price's of Harbor Freight tools anyone can remove their tires and brake drums the correct way. Plus you don't want grease of...

Remember your dealing with over 100psi coming into this unit. I would just make up a new gasket. That way you know it will not be blowing out anytime soon. I had an older IHC Loadstar 1800 that had a 392 cid engine. The filter housing is on the drivers side towards the front of the engine. It...

David the people have spoken ! Get on this new clip design ! :-D

I didn't see the pricing I only "ass-umed" it ! That is a real great price ! Still I'll stick with the electronics for now, especially since I already bought them !

Well that's good news ! Now you need to check that solenoid on the starter. Also like daytonatrbo mentioned, check all the electrical connections especially the ends. Sometimes the connection is good but the wires themselves are corroded at the ends. Try and twist the copper ends to make sure...

Well $2,000.00 is a bit high, but if there installing good components like "Kolene" steels and "Red Alto" clutches then maybe. At that price I expect to have a new control module and wiring also installed along with new solenoids. Plus new bushings. The last race transmission I built two years...

It is far easier to remove the seal housing and replace the seal then try and pry it out without damaging the crank. Plus installing it without the seal installer would be a tricky thing. I would make up a new gasket out of regular gasket material bought at any Auto supply store then use a...

All those in the transmission rebuild business know that "TCI" is garbage. They only sell aftermarket since most business's will not deal with them.

The poster with all the output shafts shows one to use for the NP205. It says 9 1/4 long. This will not work. At least with the fig 8 adapter. You want the fully splined 8 + inch shaft that offers unlimited choices on trimming and makes sure you have full spline engagement with the transfer...

The gauge is just a diagnostic tool. It lets me know of any developing problems. Like if the Air-Pak is malfunctioning or the master cylinder. If my pressure starts to drop I know my air-pak's are not working right, that sort of thing.

Those look nice but expensive. Also with using my electronic valve I also control the radiator fans. So one switch and adjust the regulator and I'm done. I will be controlling the fans by way of a relay which will be activated by my dash switch.

I have no plans of ever going deeper then 3ft. In fact I really don't need to replace the fan with electrics but I hope it will increase my HP and also eliminate any chance of a blade coming loose and taking out my radiator. As far as the slobber tube goes, I never liked all that crud dripping...

This is without any air-pressure. The reason the dash is out is I'm still working on the Fording project and need to install the air lines.

Here's one of the two fans I bought for the radiator. I'll install them later this summer. Right now I'll just get the gauge assembly and valves installed, then I can put my dash back in.