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Your welcome. The price of all the stuff, a couple of dollars scrap. Making a friend happy and can use them, Priceless.

The question was is you "FDC" bypassed? When a "FDC" is bypassed the servo in the "FDC" no longer moves to change the wedge stop plate that the droop screw rides on that is connected to the "Fulcrum". If you have "ever" bypassed a " FDC" you will know we must then readjust the main fuel / twin...

For everyday use on the smaller stuff ( car tires and such) I use my 1/2". For the truck tires my 3/4" one key has done the job every time so far. So for smitts and giggles I removed one lug nut cleaned threads with wire brush. Then as per manufactures recommendations two drops of oil on the...

Yep when ever I have a truck that I am bypassing the FDC I take the flame heater out of the system at the same time. Glad you found your problem.

Yep when ever we have performance problems it should be listed first change all three filters even if you believe they are ok. Also believe a member just found trash in the booster pump inlet port that caused restriction. Then we go to fuel delivery pressure. We need a gage 0 / 100 psi hooked at...

Almost sounds like picking up air or a restriction in the fuel delevery system. As for the fuel pressures we need a gage the has up to 100 psi range. We place that gage between the secondary and final fuel filters at the bleed screw. Idle pressure should be 30 psi minimum and high idle 60 psi...

As for idiot I don't think so, you figured it out fast with no help.

You do not need to fill the filters that is the job of the in tank fuel pump. Turn on just the in tank pump and open the bleeder screw that is in between the secondary and final fuel filter. There should be a good flow of fuel when all the air is pushed out of the system. We also can put a gage...

If you have pretty good flow of fuel at the bleed screw between the secondary and final or you gage it and have your 4 to 7 psi it should at least fire off. Then the booster pump will be kicking in when the rpm start to come up. When you took the Head apart did you remove everything like the...

What did I do to my 10 ton. Got a dang mouse squeak somewhere so greased everything. Then even checked the left front wheel bearings for feel.

One inch is to big for what I do as I do not need a Metric ton of applied torque to tighten anything. I got the one key 3/4 for what I do now and I picked up the 1/2" for the smaller things I do and yea I do like them. When working as a young man in the shop I would always reach for my air tools...

Yep only sail boats run on sail boat fuel.

Glad you found it not a dumbass. At my age now I have to take pictures of everything that has small parts and peices so I do not mess up on put things back together. That one would have never made the guess what my problem is guess list. On the lighter side there have been some that have done...

Ocala is big where are you and how far does the Deuce need to go. I have tow bar and 2 trucks big enough to handle the Deuce well three trucks but we don't need the 816 to move a Deuce.

Yea his problem is not timing as he just removed the head and cleaned it. The other thread he said he removed the whole IP.

Fuel does not really flow from the return line on the injectors it more just burps just a bit. There are something you are going to have to check but myself start with checking the timing. Remove the oil fill cap and it helps to have two people but rotate the motor over till you can see the #2...

If you line up the red tooth with the head pointer you can remove the head and put it back the same way, pointer red tooth it will not be 180* out. The only way to get 180* is to not be on TDC compression stroke and remove the IP. Then install the IP correctly but you are not on TDC compression...

You ran fresh fuel from a bottle and hooked it up? Need flow from the in tank pump first at this point. Then see where your at. As for the 180* out yes you are correct take the head out on mark put it back in on mark your good.