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Yes tear that head all the way down, all ports even the plunger when you can get the plunger sleeve freed up. The delivery valve 12 point on the side of the head is not real tight. Hopefully you already removed the center top plug from the head before you removed the head from the IP as that one...
I had thought about getting the one inch but it was not on the market quite a while ago. Also I do not plan on building any bridges so the 3/4 inch drive fuel for me.
No that would be to much water. Mop and mister clean then sponge wash the same area then wipe with clean dry rag. Glad I did not have to do a 53 foot trailer. I could have done the whole thing in a day but only doing a couple of hours each day. I had to pick up a 105 trailer for a friend this...
This 30 footer is trying to kick my Donkey but getting close to clean. Just the floor and ceiling left now. Dirty wall pic and same wall cleaned. No need to repaint a parts storage trailer.
Yep one of the few times the plunger sleeve is stuck on the plunger. You might be able to get a flat blade screwdriver in the plunger sleeve slot and sea if you can just work it a bit to get it free. If not then Head removal looks like is on the work order. Might need something stronger sprayed...
Hooked it up to the MTV and washed the outside to get the mold off and started to wash the inside. Got half of the inside done and will finish tomorrow I hope. Trailer is in good and for 670 bucks from Govplanet I think is was a good price for a storage trailer. Plus it was close to home at 45...
We need to check lash any time we go bearing deep into the hub. I tell you what I know you have not been on the board very long but here is my offer. Small deposit to me for the tools and pay for the shim pack. I will send you the correct socket for the spindle nut, cut off face of the hub so...
Myself "I" will not try and judge your moral compass but let me ask you this. If for some reason you do not care for yourself or others around you I ask you please to think of our furry and feathered friends just trying to cross the road. From the dog to cat or that flock of gray geese they need...
Yea do not know why someone did that but stock was oil bath front and rear. Myself on the rears since we are working the hub rebuild and sealing the hub I want the mateing services to be clean. So I do not try and oil the bearing / gears on install. I just after installing the rear hub inject...
The outer bearings are oil floating from the differential on the rears and added and just checked on the front. On the rears you could add to the hub as per the tm and then double check the level of the differential. If I remember right the diff. level was to be one inch lower than the fill...
Just to add to the runaway thing. Always make sure the cable sheathing clamp is tight that holds the cable by the engine and stops it from moving when you pull the stop out in the cab. Also make sure the cable set screw stopper thingy screw is tight and I have seen when you can bend the cable...
Yep good way to shut down a runaway Multifuel. But by just inspecting the fuel control unit assembly under the shut down cover you can stop the runaway before it even goes that far. On a truck that is use often and you have checked the fuel control and it is working free as it should it will not...
When you say you tighten down the shut down cover or did you remove the fuel control assembly and tighten it down to tight? The shut down cover rod was not strong enough to overcome a stuck fuel unit control assembly or not hooked into the fuel control unit assembly correctly. What is the cause...
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