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If I ever did a nanotube black paintjob on a truck, it would be named the "Black Hole".

That is my average, in putting over 25,000 miles on it since it came from the auction back in the early 90's.

There was dried-out Foxtail grass everywhere, and I got most of it soaked on the leeward side of the fence so it wouldn't burn thru before the VFD arrived.

My M54A1 gets 7MPG in hot weather, 7.5 in cold.

I fired up the old girl in a hurry and got her out of the path of this brushfire we had last Friday. It came right up to our fenceline, luckily I had enough time to get some water on that area so it didn't cross. All told, it burned almost a hundred acres of nearby desert, but no structures...

I won't do civvy big truck wheels with radials or lockrings.. One is a bitch, the other is just too sketchy.

Military LTS wheels are the safest lockring wheels made. The part of the ring that goes down into the tire keeps it from coming off as soon as the tire has maybe 10PSI in it. Over 50 years changing these wheels, never even had a close call.

Chances might be your new loom is an older version, and doesn't have provisions for turn signals at all. It is easy to add the necessary wires along the existing pathways, and wrap the whole thing in tape again to cover the added wiring.

I'll never understand why a shop will stall out a 1 inch impact wrench on every nut. They never think how some poor guy will have to change a tire in the field. That, and such extreme torque can waller out the hole taper badly or even split the rim where it is close to the center hole...

You have to run the starter to turn the dist to open & close the points to get spark, and not with a meter. Just a jumper from ground to close to the HV end of the coil.

The motor pool shop at Yuma Proving Grounds always flushed brake systems with denatured alcohol, weather Dot 3 or 5. That catches any moisture as well.

Just like mixing up plug wires, but no backfires...

That is a centering indentation used in a lathe to thread the end that goes into the socket.

Pull the dist cap, and crank while using a short piece of wire from ground to close to the HV coil output to see if you're getting spark. If so, then your rotor or cap or wires are/is defective.

Memphis ought to have them.

Replaceable Bronze bushings, available from several SS supporting members.

Not part of either the original hot water or gasoline heater. 12V civvy stuff.

Rubber hose from the windshield bolt, then thru the double rubber grommet with the speedo cable (If I remember rightly).

The first thing I'd do is a compression test. If that shows fairly even across the board, I'd have the injectors rebuilt. Lots of places in the US can do it, usually it is a piece of junk that made it into one after a filter change or some such operation. In a high-mileage situation, the tip...

Your truck is cursed. It needs an exorcism. :eek: