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Ah, don't overthink this. The truck was designed when all cars & trucks did front lighting that way.
If you are OCD about it for 'safety' cut the lead from the park lights, and splice it into the lead going to the taillights.
Voila!
Don't know why one needs a CDL for a deuce, maybe in some states. Active MV's don't stop for DOT scales anyway, if you do go thru, it adds unwanted attention.
A temp plate for moving it is easy to get.
Get some cushions for the seats, sitting on bare metal/wood is very uncomfortable for any...
Mounted up a good 14.00-20 AT-2A on a new wheel, new tube & flap. 5 hours for that job, including modding the wheel.
The price one pays when you get a flat whilst going down the road at 20 MPH...
I had an M543 (modded from an M62 by the military) with the 6602.
Drove it from Yuma to Chandler, AZ. A bit over 200mi.
It used right at 200 gallons of regular for that trip...
Gotta love the blue flame out the exhaust at night making 52 mph!
THe "holy grail" of multifuel engines is that used in the M656 8X8 tactical trucks.
It was the LD465-2 multifuel, making a bit over 200hp. Real hen's teeth, tho.
Goat motors were one-off engineered in aluminum alloy blocks, to save weight for use in them. Not a lot of other places will you find one.
Several other Detroits were produced in alloy, and all suffered from liner O-ring seal failures due to fretting against the iron liner. Glycol in the oil...
The G744 (M39-series) 5 tons were built several configurations over the long life of the design.
The 1st were powered by a gas Continental 6602 with a straight 5-speed Spicer.
The 2nd were powered by a Diesel Mack ENDT-673 turbo with a 5-speed overdrive.
The 3rd were powered by a Multifuel...
Bubba's been busy there. Nothing you can't rectify.
The top you have, or at least the bottom half, is part of the Artic Issue cold weather kit. Also came with a 'blanket' for the hood, and a Southwind gasoline heater.
It is all steel, double walled & insulated. Pricey, around $2K if found...
All those circuits go thru the turn signal switch, and they are really problematic.
There is no real way to fix one, just get a new one. I suggest putting a 10A fuse inline with the power feed, saves a lot of headaches from an intermittent short somewhere in the system.
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