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I was referring to the military 24V Signal Stat box. It had to be used with a proprietary control handle.
I'm aware they still make a lot of good automotive items, jut not that one.
Those Crosby's are not the same, they need to be permanently swaged.
The one used on most military winches is a screw-together job, with a bronze insert that supports the individual strands. A bench vice and a quality open-end wrench are all one needs to remove/install those.
Something to be...
That Signal Stat turn signal control box is the very early attempt at such. Really junk, Don't even try to use that logic.
Too bad your rig is all 12V now. Sad.
This is a dash I pulled some time ago. I wasn't trying to repair anything, rather salvage everything before it was scrapped.
Not hard to do for firewall repairs, if one disconnects everything, pops out the instrument cluster and pulls the Bowden cables from wherever.
Sorry 'bout the...
Speedo cables are easy to deal with. Unscrew the nut, and just pull it off.
You won't hurt anything. It is a good time to squirt a bit of oil down the cable, it likes to be lubed a little.
Putting it back on is easy as well, just wiggle it in and run the nut up snug.
I sold Don a good running Continental 6602 engine, said to go in his Autocar tractor. I wonder if that ever happened, or is it still sitting on it's transport frame?
Your transfer case is synchronized, and if there is sufficient torque while underway, it may be really hard to shift.
As said, use the clutch, or bump the throttle when moving and pulling on the lever.
Keep in mind the standard Milspec flashers/control handles are poorly designed. One quicky short anywhere between the handle and lights, one or both are gone. At the least, put an inline 10A fuse in the flasher feed and brake light switch.
At the best, get the one by Nartron, rather than the...
No bolts, just a piece of steel rod, drilled on each end for cotterpins and washers.
Easy to make them up from a ground rod, and they are Copper covered so won't leave rust stains.
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