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Never saw the question. The hole is down or bottom side if the control collar.

On board air, mig and plasma cutter. Just got the 110 AC put in and running, Tools to the right. Parts to left.

Are you using the jackshaft and turning the motor real slow so you can see every tooth. It's there but the red might not be but. It will still have the small line scribed in the tip of the tooth. If all else fails just line up the timing marks on the HB and the advance unit window and the red or...

I don't know Rusty but I do have a plunger that has a coating on it. I will grab it today and take a pic. I believe this coating makes the plunger stick and then causes a gap between the tappet and plunger. Then when it unsticks the two slam together maybe causing a hammering affect that knocks...

Need to climb under and see if you can stick your elbow in the hole. If it don't fit then you need to go smaller on the plug.

Don't use a rag that's for shure.

That should be the 12 volt hookup.

Yea no worries. Just make sure the caging key is in good shape and it locks in with a quarter turn before you tighten the jam nut. Then just handle like its a loaded gun and don't point it at yourself or loved ones and all will be fine.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132401-M939-brake-chamber-diaphragm-problems&highlight=rebuild+the+air+brake+chambers

I just went to the truck parts shop and got a switch for 9 bucks. All the ones I found that direct fit the trucks or so called military were 60 bucks and over. For 50 bucks I will put ends on my wiring.

Yes it could be the shut down solenoid. I always bypass that first thing if I have a no smoke no start problem with my 250's.

:popcorn:

5 bucks says it's off time.

Thank you.

I would just recheck everything you did that includes checking all timing marks. Sounds like you might be off. When the timing marks all line up the HH will be one tooth to the rear.

Here is a pic of a broken plunger guide that shows the two cracks.

Check out this thread sounds like his quill shaft is broken. Maybe you need to check you HH for spin.

If you believe you have done everything correct on the O ring replacement then I might try this. The lift pump should push out any air if left to run long enough. No need to crack injectors or anything else. Yes sometimes some have said that just a small amount of ether but I have not had that...

That screen is on top and that pic should be flipped to be correct. Looks like a large flat head screw. Clean real well before you unscrew it and light oil on the threads before install. Just go slow and don't get it cross threaded an you will have no problem.

Did you bypass the electric shut down and try?