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No problem towing it 500 feet. Seller needs to do whatever he can to accommodate an 18 wheeler. Driver will not want to back up that far or operate in a residential area. Nothing on display as I said can be many many problems. Get it home as Suprman advised and then you can start...

Oh, you are providing confusing information. By saying "no codes" that tells us you know how to pull the codes and the display is working. But now you say "nothing on display". That could be any one of 100 things wrong to cause that. As far as hauling your truck, you want Joey at United...

Your data plate says right there WO/W, so yes, the winch was added. Winch added = good thing.

You are THE BEST! See if you can upload it to the TM section of this site. I will buy a copy if you burn it on a CD or memory stick. Try to get the other -20 as well.

No codes means keypad is shot. Send it to transmissioninstruments.com for free verification.

You should definitely use those as the VIN. Buy a new data plate and stamp those numbers there as well. The tax office will understand that a 1970 vehicle will not have a 17 digit standard VIN.

13641 is the 13,641st truck they made on that contract, or something like that.

Thanks to David Doyle for this info: “05” trucks were contracted in 1970. This lot was one of thelargest groups, comprised of some 16,000 trucks. Three manufacturers completedthis lot. The first of these appeared with Kaiser-Jeep data plates, followed bythe brief use of General Products...

Gov threw them a lifeline, can't have a major defense contractor go under.

Sounds like a good idea, let us know how it works out. ANYTHING is better than those chrome coils.

I know what you are going through. First of all welcome to the site. These crap chrome coils have been an issue for many years now and nobody is dealing with the problem in the supply chain. Personally, I am using old US military coils. It is possible to mount a coil outside the ignitor, and...

Hate to be a party pooper but next thing to check are the driveshaft slip joints for ANY movement up/down. Vibration from there is what shakes this all loose at highway speeds. Have him check the alternator for loose bolts as well.

Looks like the usual cracked timing gear case due to loose or missing bolts holding the air compressor.

By "non-electronic" I meant there are no solid state devices in the starter circuit such as transistors mentioned by OP. I agree the small GM solenoid should be fine, but I think you will agree that LOTS of folks have it stick on them. I still use the OEM part, but it dangles below the dash...

No, not ANY Sherwin Williams outlet, only Chemical Coatings stores for CARC. It's pricy, over $100/gal. I would paint match your structure using the water based house paint and worry about the unequal fading after X years then.

GM used a wimpy solenoid which you were about to replace. It's all just non-electronic wiring in the starter circuit.

The problem with matching the original Tan 686 paint on your 10 year old trailer is that it has faded, and any new paint will not be. So if you want to paint your canopy CARC, you will end up having to paint the trailer as well. An option is to have Sherwin Williams or Home Depot etc color...

Welcome. Quite a few knowledgeable GMC owners here, I will chime in. If replacing the generator did not fix the charging system, then the only thing else if could be is the regulator. On the compressed air, if the belt is there and the compressor is spinning, maybe the unloader is stuck in...

I went through this. Using a tactical vehicle for the test is a recipe for failure. She will need to instruct you, hard to do in a noisy truck. She will be out of her zone, not good. Use the CDL rental trucks, they are cheap.

Looks like the canopy structure is gone over the rear bed.