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I was not aware anyone in the US was making coils that would fit the M37 distributor. The only M37 coil I see on the Memphis Equipment site is the chrome one, which is Chinese and known to have quality issues. Did you find something not listed in the M37 section? Peter Debella at Debella Jeep...

A quick search on Amazon turned up a bunch of switches that would work ranging from $10-$15. I suspect your local hardware or automotive store also has some in stock. If you can't find DPST switches, you could use a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw). You just won't use a couple of the...

If you have a stock ignition switch, it’s a double pole switch - essentially two switches, both controlled simultaneously by one knob. One set of contacts feeds the gauges and the other feeds the ignition. If it is malfunctioning, it’s possible to have power to the gauges but not to the ignition...

If you do end up needing a new ignition coil, the NOS ones are getting hard to find (assuming you re still running a 24V system). The chrome Chinese ones are hit or miss on the quality. Debella Jeep's aftermarket coils seem to be working out well. I've got almost 10,000 miles on one with no...

One option: just temporarily run a wire from the battery to the distributor (or wherever the other end of wire #12 actually connects). This bypasses the switch and all the connections surrounding it. Just remember to disconnect the wire when you are done testing.

Just about any switch will work. A DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) toggle switch would be fine, if you don't care about looks. In fact, it would be a cheap way to troubleshoot the problem, since the switches only cost a few bucks. The power feed to the switch is wire #11. Connect that to both...

I think @Guyfang was suggesting you edit your user information so it shows up under your User Name to the left of your posts. The Zip Code means little to most people. If you don't want to name the town, just entering something like "NW PA" is helpful.

Does your oil look and feel normal?

OK, now I'm curious: what the heck were you doing that you managed to roll an M37 - and more than once? I've only had that worry cross my mind once: when I ws forced of a narrow dirt road a few years ago by someone coming the other way who refused to get over on his own side of the road...

11.00R16 Michelin XZL tires are 38.7" diameter. They are a popular choice on M37 Trucks, though they are not cheap. I have them on my truck. They fit without rubbing on my stock suspension. I got mine from Colony Tire in Norfolk, VA and had them shipped to me. You can find them at this ad on...

Put it on the right rear of that M37, and it will be in the right direction, and each truck will have matching tread (at least on the tires I can see.)

I have not done one, but a 4BT is a popular swap.

@Johnbyrdgates Any updates on your electric conversion?

I'm wondering if that 330 jet is a typo. However, I don't know enough about carbs and jets to make an educated guess.

What temperature are you baking at to reduce hydrogen embrittlement? My experience is limited: several decades in the steel spring wire manufacturing business. We did a lot of heat treament (quench and temper to increase hardness/tensile strength), but we did no plating. Many of our spring-maker...

https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-sending-unit-access-plate-cc1277517?_pos=7&_sid=ed7c8927b&_ss=r

I was told to remove a small plug near the bottom of the ball, then remove the zerk from the top, place it where the plug was in the bottom and grease until the grease just starts to come out of the top (where the grease zerk was). When done, return the plug and the zerk to their original positions.

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Unless I'm picturing s different grease point, aren't you supposed to grease from the bottom, not the top? You temporarily move a grease zerk to that point and pump it up into the bearings.

Your original plates were brass?