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That's the alternator I have, the 100A listed for the late 70s caddys. I'm hoping I just got a bad one.

Sorry if I'm not following you-- you're saying it's feasible that I got a junk alternator? I really hope you're right, because I'm in DEEP over my head if I'm trying to track down some sort of phantom gremlin that is killing 100A alternators.

About 2 weeks ago the Gen 1 light came on, and the volt meter was pegged about a needle width into the yellow band. Replaced the driver's side alternator, and life was once again good. Volt meter was pegged in the center of the green band, and voltage read ~14.2 at the battery. Well, today...

I used a big bench vise and an appropriately sized socket as a press. Worked like a champ.

Actually I have already done a lot to insulate the cab. I have double layered FatMat on the floor covered by a rubber mat, and also a layer of fat mat on the ceiling too. I have carpet on the inside walls of the bed. You're right, it made a major difference on noise. A power window would be...

Problem is I do enough highway driving that any increased gear ratio on the axle will negatively impact my normal use of the vehicle. For example, my drive to my hunting spot is about an hour at 70mph. This is why the 700r4 swap is more appealing. The additional gear would help with low end...

If anything is getting sold it's the m1009 in favor of a Tahoe. I'd rather not do that though, as I love the utility of the M1009.

My chief complaint is lack of power on towing. When towing my boat ~(2700 lbs) it's so gutless it loses speed on any slope. What kind of cost am i looking at for a 700r4 swap? Turbo would be tough due to the space taken up under the hood by the AC components.

Maybe I should add.... this is my DD, and I'm also trying to make it wife friendly.

I'm looking to upgrade my M1009 into a better truck. My main goals are power and reliability. I already have creature comfort stuff like stereo and AC installed, though I would like to quiet the cab down more in the future, but that is a lower priority than the previously stated goalsof power...

It is right under the passenger seat (under the truck). It sits where the supply line crosses over the frame and runs on the outside of the frame rail. I had to loop the hose and mount the pump backwards to get it to fit right, but it's in there with no kinks in the hoses. For wiring I...

Mr. Gasket 12D. I realize it's not spectacular, but it will do until it quits. If it does quit it's a simple matter of re-arranging a few hoses and the truck is back to its original configuration.

Ya, it is right under the passenger seat (under the truck). It sits where the supply line crosses over the frame and runs on the outside of the frame rail. I had to loop the hose and mount the pump backwards to get it to fit right, but it's in there with no kinks in the hoses. For wiring I...

Added the Mr. Gasket 4-7 psi pump today. Didn't even bother to re-prime the system, I wanted to see what she would do. Turned the key to the first click and heard the pump turn on, a few seconds later I heard the pitch change as it picked up fuel, then the pitch changed again as it hit...

Today I replaced the driver's side alternator, and installed a Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump to supplement my fuel supply and fix a priming issue I've been having. Truck runs better than ever now.

I refer you to my first point..... A) noted. And I read through the manual and can't find where the check valve is addressed. I read the whole fuel system section and either I'm missing it or it's not there. What page/section is it, oh wise one?

I'm looking to add an electric fuel pump to my fuel system to fix an issue I think is caused by a bad check valve. Before you start with the "why don't you replace the check valve" stuff, A) noted, B) because I don't know where it is in the system and I only suspect a check valve C) an electric...

Now that you mention it... this problem FIRST started to manifest when the truck was parked in my driveway, which has a decent uphill tilt when parked nose-in. When I parked it in the street it wouldn't happen until a bit later on when it would occasionally happen, then more and more frequently...

Agreed. I am lost working on most aspects of this truck, but pick up quickly with pictures or direct TM references.

Ok, here's an update: The issue has gotten WORSE. Now on 100% of starts the engine will start crank right up, run for about 5 seconds, and die. No amount of throttle play will fix that. Truck will restart after about 20 seconds of cranking with my foot on the floor. Most troubling is the...