jaxsof
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Pro'lly got a load of dirt that smelled like fuel and has crap all the way to the nozzles.
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1009 mystery issue
- Thread starter fuzzpuss
- Start date
Pro'lly got a load of dirt that smelled like fuel and has crap all the way to the nozzles.
fuzzpuss
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How much pressure should come from the lift pump? Chilton manual is useless and only mentions the 350 diesel briefly... like four sentences, and I couldn't get the TM to work on my puter. I am getting no fuel at the injectors when cracked open.
67_C-30
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The factory lift pump produces about 5 psi. If have you have no air at the filter and there is fuel cominbg out of the return, it sounds like an IP problem. Have you tried to spin the engine with an injector cracked for about 10 seconds?
if you just drove 2200 miles i cant believe the pump just up and quit. you have 12v power with the key at the top of pump? right. take a 10 mm deep socket, pull a couple glow plugs out and heat them up . put 12v on the blade and ground the body, you will see right away if they are good. if good, put them back in, you said you had power to the plugs with a test lamp. ? right? even if you have one or two not working your truck should fire and run. make sure your batteries are fully charged. try starting again.
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- Las Cruces, NM
No Smoke. . . .
No fuel at the injector. . .
No fuel at the injector. . .
fuzzpuss
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I cracked the injector and cranked it for 20 secs til the ground started to smoke just a bit and no fuel and I have power to the IP and can here it click when I touch it to the connector.. I had been driving for about 2 weeks after the 2200 mile trip putting on 110 miles a day. I pumped clear fuel with no bubbles at the filter bleed. but personally cant believe the pump would up and quit but... stranger things have happened.
ive never seen an ip fuel solinoid go bad. its at the top of the pump with 4 screws where the power goes in. i have a core i can take apart and see how they work if someone else doesnt chime in and give you a hand. thanks. mark
stampy
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Replace the rubber fuel lines and the fuel filter. Many of us just converted to a spin on fuel filter as you can prefill them so you don't kill you batteries trying to start it. Others here have practiced the wisdom of : if it's electrical clean it if it's rubber replace it and I can agree. Many of the CUCV's problems come from old worn out rubber and dirty electrical. This may or may not solve your current problem but it will avoid future ones. One thing I might try is getting a can(be sure it's clean) of fresh diesel and connecting a length of new fuel line to the fuel line going to the IP put it in the new diesel and try to start the truck. This will bypass the entire fuel system except fot the IP and injectors. This will help you zero in on what may be the problem. If it runs then start looking back at the way the fuel gets from the tank to the IP If not you know that you have an IP or injector problem.
fuzzpuss
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The IP has to be dead, I blew air (40psi) thru the intake line on the IP and heard a gurgling noise, put new fuel lines on cranked the engine and then with an injector cracked and nothing. I had pressure at the return line at the fuel filter after cranking it and had fuel spray out at the bleed screw when I opened briefly and had fuel spray out the return line before the filter. so the IP has to be plugged or dead?
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fuzzpuss
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so wheres a good place to get a good and cheap pump?
fuzzpuss
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This is the pump number off my pump DB2829-4267
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Hey Fuzz, like I said, I have some take off IP's I'll bring back to Vegas this week, unless you find something. Also for an IP change your going to need a gasket kit.
fuzzpuss
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Are the IP's you got in fairly good shape? I don't want to have to do this again for awhile, if I can help it. I will pm you with my cell #. What gaskets will I need and can I get them from Napa? I know I need the intake gaskets, how many are there for the pump? I have never done an IP before apprx. how long do ya think it will take from tear down, to setting up pump, and reinstall?
sorry we couldnt help you find the problem, you will need a 9/16 box wrench that has a crook in it for the bottom ip bolt, maybe FMJ has it. if you have a way to heat up a standard wrench you can make one. also when the pump comes out make sure you watch the cup seals and their position. good luck!!!
when you pull the lines some people leave them on the injector and bend them out of the way and some people pull the whole thing off, 5/8 open on the ip side. 3/4 on the injector(i think)
read "another fuel system" post for advice on changing the fuel solinoid, sounds like this guy did it. it may save you alot of work if it can be done on the truck!!!!
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67_C-30
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You sound like me! I try to use standard wrenches whenever I can, even if they are metric bolts!
in 84 i think the only metric on the top was the 15mm bolt on the alt ? good thing 14mm can sub for 9/16, and 13mm for 1/2. back then i had no metric stuff at all.You sound like me! I try to use standard wrenches whenever I can, even if they are metric bolts!
67_C-30
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The injectors are lines are actually 19mm and 16mm, but since 19mm is .748" and 16mm is .6299" so you can sub 3/4 and 5/8. I'm like you though, the only metric wrench I usually use is that 15mm, and the 10mm if I'm pulling the valve covers, oil pan, etc.
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Like I said they are take off's, the one I had in mind came off a motor with a blown head gasket, motor still ran but had blown head gasket. If you want a guarantee I can't provide one, and you should buy a pump from a dealer/rebuilder. It should take you about half a day to do the swap.
fuzzpuss
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No I didn't mean to sound like I was looking for the deal of the century I just don't like mechanicing all the time. do you think the seals may be dried out or it will work for awhile. I don't mean to sound conceited either so please forgive me if it sounded that way... I am very appreciative for all you and everyone's help and advice. I will get the intake and pump kit today.