• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

1952 M135 W/Winch

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I used a bench grinder with a nylon wheel on everything but the air canister. Used an angle grinder with a wire wheel on that.
 
Last edited:

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,833
4,181
113
Location
Alexandria, VA

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Not yet. It is sitting in pieces all cleaned up and waiting for me to put on the new seals and assemble it. I have a 3 day weekend coming up and hope to get it done then.

I wanted to have the airpak done before I bench bleed and install the master cylinder. Oh..and I had new front brake hoses made that are same size as the originals, so have to put those on too.

I took a little bit of a detour and replaced all of the coolant hoses and hoses that go to and from the air compressor, so I am behind where I wanted to be on the brake system. I wanted to get the coolant drained, cooling system flushed, hoses replaced and everything refilled before cold weather set in. That is done now so will get back on track.

My dad is coming out for Thanksgiving, weather permitting. I'd like to drop the oil pan and replace the rear main seal with his help. We'll see how it goes.

Let me know if there are any particular pictures you want of the airpak rebuild.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I was looking at some of the seals that came out of the original airpak and found National part # 50197 stamped on the shaft seal (NN in the parts breakdown). This seal is readily available

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/50197S.oap?ck=Search_50197s_-1_-1&keyword=50197s

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...NAPA-Oil-Seals-SKF-CR-/_/R-NOS3751_0309970181

I'm trying to decide if I should go searching for part numbers to all the seals, gaskets and o rings to add to our parts list before I put the airpak together. Anyone know of a company that specializes in seals that could help us in our search?
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,811
2,387
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
Grab Handles

Anyone know of a company that specializes in seals that could help us in our search?
Kinda rude of us not to follow up on the seal search but I'm guessing you charged ahead anyway. It's been a month man!

I'll try to get a day next week to wrap these up. No trani gaskets for Christmas but Valentines day looks good.

PC070137.jpg

For the record, your donor trucks were Larry and Richard Pryor, the two on the left.

PC070138.jpg
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Oh man! Thank you for those handles. Let me know how much I need to send you.

I did charge ahead..but not as fast as I would like. Work has kept me busy and then the flu has been passed around the family a couple of times over the last month. The weather over Thanksgiving was rainy and cold so nothing got done then either.

I have been steadily assembling the airpak. A seal here and a seal there as I can. It would really only take me an hour or two if I could do it all in one sitting. I have been saving all of the old seals and will start hunting for their modern equivalent as I can after I get my truck back going. Just need that airpak and master cylinder put back on. If everything works as it is supposed to, I still have those brand new wheel cylinders that leak to deal with on the rear axles. I want to test the front wheel cylinders and see how they hold up to all the extra pressure from things working like they are supposed to and the unneeded check valve out of the master cylinder.

If all this goes as planned, it is time to start prepping the truck and the hard top to be painted this spring. I also need to wire in some more visible taillights and turn signals. Not sure what I will do with that yet but was thinking of making the front blackout lights functional again as well as the rear single brake light and rear blackout light. Then add the modern M series taillights and maybe mount turn signals in one of the holes on each side of the front bumper. We'll see what happens.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,833
4,181
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
If all this goes as planned, it is time to start prepping the truck and the hard top to be painted this spring. I also need to wire in some more visible taillights and turn signals. Not sure what I will do with that yet but was thinking of making the front blackout lights functional again as well as the rear single brake light and rear blackout light. Then add the modern M series taillights and maybe mount turn signals in one of the holes on each side of the front bumper. We'll see what happens.
This (below) might give you a headache, Brother, but,

- Good luck with ALL of that!

panama.jpg
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,811
2,387
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
I just noticed those amber lights mounted on the front fenders of all three of those trucks. Is that a Canadian Military thing? Just markers, turn signals or both?
Once out of the military they would have needed turn signals on public roads. These lights look like a farm add on....quick and cheap, probably wired to a flasher but I need to look.

I'm just not sure if any of the trucks were decked with flashers while still in service. They were still using them long into the 80's so I'm guessing so but maybe CMPman or Stan would jump in with an answer.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I am finally back to work on the truck. The airpak is almost completely reassembled and the new master cylinder is bench bled and ready to go on. All new brake lines for the front are ready to be installed as well. I'm still trying to sort out the earlier mentioned wheel cylinder issue and am still testing the front ones before I deal with the back ones again. The backs are capped off. I want to make sure the fronts will hold up to a new master cylinder and a (hopefully) correctly functioning airpak.

Can anyone tell me what the function of the vent line on the original master cylinder cap is for and if there would be any problems if not used? This cap came with the new master cylinder and screws right into the extension from the original master. I like it better and it is easier to take off/put on.

1221151657a.jpg1221151715.jpg
 
Last edited:

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
The black cap doesn't have any sort of vent and is not a dust cap. The under side of it below the threads has a dome that swivels somewhat, but that is all. The inside of the metal extension is threaded inside the large diameter part as well as in the small hole that the original cap and vent line screw into . I am unsure what the purpose is of the original vent line that is with the original cap that was used on these trucks. Also unsure why they threaded the larger diameter. The plastic cap screws right in real nice though.

I will use what is original to the truck unless someone knows for sure that plastic cap won't cause any issues.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Vent line does 2 things.
1. venting is required because fluid leaves when the peddle is depressed and atmospheric air comes in the vent to replace the fluid that goes out the other end. Most newer vehicles have a rubber diaphragm under the master cyl cover that does not allow air in. Some older vehicles have a vent hole under the edge of the cap that allows air in.
My experience is if no vent of either type it is more likely that when the master seals start to fail air is drawn in the seal on the actuator rod end of the piston. I cannot remember if the seal is faced to keep fluid in or air out.
2. deep water fording!
It would be worth seeing pictures of the underside of the cap
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I see. I should probably leave things original since it was designed with a purpose and nothing is wrong with the original cap. I just thought this would make checks and refill easier.

Here are some pictures of the plastic cap.
1222152155a.jpg1222152155.jpg
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
I don't understand the second pic. or the flange on the bottom of the cap????
The flange is the dome shown in the second pic right?
Why the hole?
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,164
133
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Yes, the second picture is the under side of the dome. I don't understand the function either. I see no way for air to vent or anything.

1222152222.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks