dabtl
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That leak does not look so bad. Perhaps it will heal itself? If not, perhaps it is not fatal?
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55mph detonation post mortum. . .
- Thread starter FMJ
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I drove it a bit last night, 7-8 miles, and again this morning, no change. It pushes alot of coolant out while running. The motor runs good, just that **** leak. . . I wonder if re-torquing the head bolts would help?
tm america
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i would try retorquing them just for chits and giggles you never know you might get lucky in a good way this time.
tm america
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gm uses sealing pelets to stop leaks like this they have service bullitins on this . they work really good on cases like this . they come three to a pack it takes three to seal up one northstar motor. the deuce you would need 6-8 to do the job they are a permant fix i would put them in before retorquing the head .that way it will fill the gap the retorquing would lock it in
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More info on these?
tm america
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good to the dealer or we keep them in stock at work i can get you the part number on monday.they work wonders even on aluminum heads and blocks .they designed them to use on the northstar engine which is known to blow head gaskets they say to put three tablets in each time you change the coolant
tmbrwolf
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Try retorquing first then try looking for Barr's stop leak, all the engines I've gotten from depot rebuild have a jar of it in the engine can, when we install the rebuilt engine we pour it in the radiator and if there are minor leaks it will seal it up.
tmbrwolf
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And another thought is it an old style head gasket or new style? If it's the old style it might be a precurser to failure, on the old style I'll see either oil or coolant leaks just before they let loose!
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It has the tabs, sooooo, I'm assuming it's a new style head gasket?
Nonotagain
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You can try re-torqueing the head gaskets but probably won't make any difference.
If it were mine, I'd probably get a couple of cans of ceramic engine seal, pour it into the radiator and run the truck.
Barrs Leak only works for a while then needs to be re-newed with additional sealer.
If it were mine, I'd probably get a couple of cans of ceramic engine seal, pour it into the radiator and run the truck.
Barrs Leak only works for a while then needs to be re-newed with additional sealer.
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Ok, here are the pics:
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Few more,
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Cam is trashed too. . . big/small divots out of both of the lobes on the #6 cylinder.
Was hoping to use it to repair a motor that broke the cam gear off the end of the cam.
Was hoping to use it to repair a motor that broke the cam gear off the end of the cam.
wsucougarx
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wow
tmbrwolf
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Nope those would be the old style and prone to failure, might be worlds ahead and just change them before failure!
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tmbrwolf
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After looking at the pic's all I can say is "HOLY CRAP BATMAN!" 
That puppy really let loose! I have gotten a couple in the shop that have let loose but not usually that bad, nine times out of ten we can do an inframe overhaul and put them back in service, but that one is toast!
That puppy really let loose! I have gotten a couple in the shop that have let loose but not usually that bad, nine times out of ten we can do an inframe overhaul and put them back in service, but that one is toast!
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Cam, head gaskets from blown motor, and of course, the disgruntled shop help. . . 
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mckeeranger
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And the shop trike!Cam, head gaskets from blown motor, and of course, the disgruntled shop help. . .
tmbrwolf
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Well you can salvage 5 pistons and liners, pan, oil pump and the external stuff etc but from the looks it really lunched it good. The "tabbed" head gaskets are what is in the picture, its that two piece style with a gasket and compression sealing rings, that is the style that is prone to failure, I just replaced a set last week that was leaking oil. 
Ok, here is how I read the tealeaves:
The top of the broken piston is shiny, the others are dull. The broken piston has valve head marks in its top, And you have a broken cam, bent pushrod, and a broken connecting rod.
How about this for a scenario: Antifreeze has been leaking into the cylinder for some time, evidenced by the shiny piston, and during one of your starts, you briefly hydro locked the engine seriously stressing the connecting rod.
Then on the fateful day, you went tooling down the road at 2600RPM, and the weakened rod/cap let go, and batted the piston up to the top of the cylinder where it stopped. As the engine continued to turn, the valves went through a few cycles, and left their marks on the piston top, bent the push rod, and broke the cam.
Thoughts?
-Chuck
The top of the broken piston is shiny, the others are dull. The broken piston has valve head marks in its top, And you have a broken cam, bent pushrod, and a broken connecting rod.
How about this for a scenario: Antifreeze has been leaking into the cylinder for some time, evidenced by the shiny piston, and during one of your starts, you briefly hydro locked the engine seriously stressing the connecting rod.
Then on the fateful day, you went tooling down the road at 2600RPM, and the weakened rod/cap let go, and batted the piston up to the top of the cylinder where it stopped. As the engine continued to turn, the valves went through a few cycles, and left their marks on the piston top, bent the push rod, and broke the cam.
Thoughts?
-Chuck