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65 Kaiser M35A2 project starts

Gunfreak25

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Yes, giving it new o rings and deep cleaning it. Have to wait on new springs before I can reassemble.

All rear brake lines replaced, most of them broke coming off from corrosion. Very glad to see new parts under there now. Have to do frame lines next, and start tearing into front axle hubs and pinion bearings
 

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Gunfreak25

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Look at all the junk I cleaned from the hydraulic head, there were a few blocked passages here and there. Still waiting on new springs….

In the meantime, tore air tanks and cut out copper lines to replace with DOT nylon. Ordered a new air tank, this one is rotted out. The primary oddly enough looks good, probably from the compressor oil coating inside it. To be expected they look like the original tanks from 1965!!
 

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Gunfreak25

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Took some video of the front axle differential bearings, looks like the carrier bearings are shot besides the pinion bearings. Shouldn’t be too hard to rebuild but wrestling a steer axle is no fun while rolling it out from under the truck. Might weld up a cross bar or something to keep the wheels straight.

Or if anyone in AZ has a third member for sale? I heard the rears are the same as the front.


 
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Gunfreak25

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My wife bought me a nice RIDGID double flare kit for my 30th bday. She saw the trouble I was having with my cheap set. This one is USA made and makes effortless perfect double flares.

Hydraulic head reinstalled with new seals, button clip and Jesus clip. Next I pulled fuel pump to inspect. It’s surprisingly the cleanest part of the fuel system I’ve seen!

Tomorrow I’m pulling parking brake assembly for cleaning, pad relining and adjustment.

Would be further along but side tracked with new Jeep motor and 117 degree heat 😩
 

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Gunfreak25

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So! Parts on the way is new parking cable, air tank check valve (this truck didn’t have one), new vented gas cap, and an Airtex e8131 to convert to a modern external fuel pump. While mine worked, it made some bad noises.

Today I finished all hydraulic brake lines and secured them with new P clamps to prevent vibrations. This truck was a gasser from the factory as evidence by the original brake line running under the radiator.

I “updated” it by flipping the brake hose junction and running the new front supply steel line along the middle crossmember and forward. It’s shorter, cleaner.

This week I HOPE to have all kinked dented copper air lines replaced with DOT nylon. Except the compressor discharge which will be special braided high temp.

Oh, also made new air tank u bolts to compliment new air tanks since old ones were garbage.

IM TIRED and calling it a day
 

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Gunfreak25

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Finished all air brake lines, converted to DOT line. Look at all that old copper! There were a few places the copper had worn almost totally through from vibrations.

Battery box is headed to sand blasters for stripping. I will repair the bottom. Gutted the interior so I can replace broken speedometer cable and clean/reseal speedo adapter.

Ordered new battery cables and both under dash air hoses.

Tomorrow I reline parking brake and reassemble.

Does anybody have a spare nut that goes into the dash for the cluster screws?
 

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Gunfreak25

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Cleaned and put new seal in speedo adapter. It was a Kawasaki seal and the part number is in the photo. Very tight fit and stiffer seal than the oem. Should not leak! Also new speedo cable from big Mike’s.

Battery box is rotten. So I bought a NOS plastic box but it has no locking handles. Does anyone have some they can spare? Or else I’ll make them.
 

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Gunfreak25

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Started a new job so it’s been slow. But I got new battery box in, fabbed up a custom hold down assembly for the group 34’s. I still need the locking handles if anybody has some.

All air lines have been replaced. Even down to the transfer air shift mechanism, dash lines and also resealed the air shift lever. Tomorrow is booster pump seal which finishes fuel repairs then start on other wheel hub service which FINISHES brake overhaul.

Haven’t touched radiator hoses or belts yet but they look decent. I need to get the spare Will Wagner included pressure tested and swapped in some day. At which time all radiator hoses and belts will be done. Fortunately it’s had good coolant in it which is literally the only thing that wasn’t in need of immediate service on this rig!!
 

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Gunfreak25

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A guy on my Facebook M35 owners group has a set of handles he is mailing me for postage. But thank you regardless Will!

Jacked motor up, removed booster pump and put in a new seal and is back on!
 

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Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
My steering box shaft seal was getting a little weepy. I drained 1 quart of gear oil from it and filled it with my home brew 000 grade grease using regular NLGI #2 wheel bearing grease mixed with a drill and 140 wt gear lube. Semi flowable about like ketchup.

I’m cheap and the box won’t give a damn.
 

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Mullaney

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Last night I found a guy 2 hours from here selling 9 tires. He responded and I zipped out there. Didn’t get home until nearly 1AM. Most of them are brand new some are lightly used. He also threw in about 20 inner tubes, 2 sets of brake shoes and a fuel pump. I got everything for $100
.
Wow!! That is a heck of a deal. Not sure how old the tires might be, but dang.
Fuel Pump and Brake Shoes would have been that much by themselves!

Make sure you check them for cracks and stuff. You may end up having to learn to mount tires because a lot of commercial truck tire shops won't mount anything with old date codes. Not sure what that "cut-off date" is, but just don't be surprised when or if it happens.
 

gringeltaube

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Last night I found a guy 2 hours from here selling 9 tires. He responded and I zipped out there. Didn’t get home until nearly 1AM. Most of them are brand new some are lightly used. He also threw in about 20 inner tubes, 2 sets of brake shoes and a fuel pump. I got everything for $100
Good deal...!!! (y)
 
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