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65 Kaiser M35A2 project starts

Gunfreak25

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In classic spirit of everything I do I want to needle scale and paint the inside of the rims if there’s any rust. So I do want to change them myself, plus it’s good exercise and a good skill to have it off road. We have lots of rocks here. I’ll have to check the date codes!

Most of the inner tubes are 10.00x20. Will they still work okay for a smaller tire?
 

cattlerepairman

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Yes, the inner tubes will do just fine. They are usually good for a size up or down. Inner tubes for 9.00-20 have successfully been pressed into service for the 11.00-20 tires. One size DOWN is likely better than stretching the tubes into a much bigger tire.
GIft horse, mouth etc. and I agree that you got a screaming deal. I just do not like the 9.00-20 NDTs one bit. Ok for someone who wants a "period correct" appearance of the truck, but for practical use, a modern 11.00R20 is the way to go. Just my opinion.
 
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Mullaney

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In classic spirit of everything I do I want to needle scale and paint the inside of the rims if there’s any rust. So I do want to change them myself, plus it’s good exercise and a good skill to have it off road. We have lots of rocks here. I’ll have to check the date codes!

Most of the inner tubes are 10.00x20. Will they still work okay for a smaller tire?
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I agree with the scaling and painting and mounting your own tires.
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Happy to see that cattlerepairman was able to answer the tube question.
I thought maybe, but the best I could have done.
 

Gunfreak25

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Awesome then I have tubes for life. And they aren’t cheap! I agree I don’t care for the NDCCs either but they were almost free. In 5 or 6 years I will put a more modern 11.00. Fortunately Yuma is a no rain environment so no worries on rain traction with the NDTs which is their biggest drawback
 

Gunfreak25

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All the rears are done, crawling under the truck is done. Last is the front axle brakes and figure out how to deal with the shot differential bearings until I can afford to fix it proper.

I think for now I’ll just remove the axles so nothing is spinning up front, and reassemble with the new brake stuff and repacked bearings.

I will either pull the center section for rebuild or if it’s the same price go with a used take out that’s in good condition. Either way I will be putting locking hubs on when the center is fixed.
 

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Mullaney

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All the rears are done, crawling under the truck is done. Last is the front axle brakes and figure out how to deal with the shot differential bearings until I can afford to fix it proper.

I think for now I’ll just remove the axles so nothing is spinning up front, and reassemble with the new brake stuff and repacked bearings.

I will either pull the center section for rebuild or if it’s the same price go with a used take out that’s in good condition. Either way I will be putting locking hubs on when the center is fixed.
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Dang. You got a lot accomplished!
 

Gunfreak25

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Just working on my last wheel hub. Been hot and busy! I ordered locking hubs for the truck and located a new pumpkin close by.

I tracked down the previous owner who I have been emailing about the truck. It’s an OLD surplus truck from Fort Ord Army DRMO. Sold for $300 in 1993. It went through 2 or 3 owners before it ended up with Will Wagner at the museum. In another thread, we surmised the bumper numbers put this truck in Hanau Germany where it very likely assisted Desert Storm Operations in 1991. The unit was officially deactivated soon after, and then it went to DRMO upon returning home.

Still tracking down any previous owners for as much info as I can get.
 

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Mullaney

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Just working on my last wheel hub. Been hot and busy! I ordered locking hubs for the truck and located a new pumpkin close by.

I tracked down the previous owner who I have been emailing about the truck. It’s an OLD surplus truck from Fort Ord Army DRMO. Sold for $300 in 1993. It went through 2 or 3 owners before it ended up with Will Wagner at the museum. In another thread, we surmised the bumper numbers put this truck in Hanau Germany where it very likely assisted Desert Storm Operations in 1991. The unit was officially deactivated soon after, and then it went to DRMO upon returning home.

Still tracking down any previous owners for as much info as I can get.
.
Wow... Impressive. Neat that you got a lot done!
Knowing some history about that truck is just so incredible to have.
 

Gunfreak25

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Trying to converge threads. We were discussing the bumper numbers here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/bumper-unit-markings.204169/

So the engine dates 1984. It was DRMOd in 93 with 54311 miles showing. Changed owners a few times, I know it was driven a lot just due to the civilian hitch and several California tabs stuck to the license plate. Speedo cable broke soon after it was released in 93. Previous owner bought it in 2002 with 600 hours showing and sold it to Will at the museum in 2019 ish with 717 hours showing. I bought it with 54378 miles which is obviously off.

Motor makes zero blow by so I think it’s safe to assume the hours are proper and the mileage very not so . Gotta love all this history and deciphering clues.
 

NDT

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Just working on my last wheel hub. Been hot and busy! I ordered locking hubs for the truck and located a new pumpkin close by.

I tracked down the previous owner who I have been emailing about the truck. It’s an OLD surplus truck from Fort Ord Army DRMO. Sold for $300 in 1993. It went through 2 or 3 owners before it ended up with Will Wagner at the museum. In another thread, we surmised the bumper numbers put this truck in Hanau Germany where it very likely assisted Desert Storm Operations in 1991. The unit was officially deactivated soon after, and then it went to DRMO upon returning home.

Still tracking down any previous owners for as much info as I can get.
Wow no VIN / serial number on the SF 97. I was going to do a search for you on Carnac’s vin history thread.
 

williamh

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So canisters have been deep cleaned, new o rings inside and out, 6 micron filters, and DOT line for all associated fuel lines this side of engine. Starts up real quick now but still stumbles when returning to idle (dips to 400 then recovers). I’m almost positive the fuel shutoff rod is gummy and that’s my next check because it runs perfectly otherwise and makes good power. After that I will check fuel delivery valve in hydraulic head.

My new wheel cylinders, brake lines and parking brake linings came in! At this point I have everything to get her back on the road safely. Just need time....
What is dot lines ? I’ve been looking for new fuel lines since my trucks are 1959 and 1967 , I’ve been using nos stuff that I picked up over time but I’m almost out and running down to Napa and talking to someone I wouldn’t let change my wipers hasn’t helped my search. I looked for part numbers here but haven’t found anything that I can cross reference and tell that tard this is what I want ! They can’t seem to get past year and it’s a REO !!
 

Gunfreak25

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What is dot lines ? I’ve been looking for new fuel lines since my trucks are 1959 and 1967 , I’ve been using nos stuff that I picked up over time but I’m almost out and running down to Napa and talking to someone I wouldn’t let change my wipers hasn’t helped my search. I looked for part numbers here but haven’t found anything that I can cross reference and tell that tard this is what I want ! They can’t seem to get past year and it’s a REO !!
DOT line is nylon air brake tubing at NAPA. There’s a write up here on the forum on switching everything over. It’s a ton of work but well worth the time and it’s not too expensive.

 

NDT

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Did someone have to enter that info on his thread or was it just records searching? Anyways thanks for looking!
The database reflects all US Army vehicles that were “on the books” at the time he queried the database, which I believe he did in the mid 2000s. He provided excel files which I condensed into pdfs which anyone can search on the “Carnac VIN info thread”.
 

Gunfreak25

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My new tire hammer came in so I got my feet wet breaking down my first wheels. The first two took only 5 min each with soap. The others required soap and a light application of gasoline to the bead broke the bead right free. Little trick I learned from an old timer! Worked up one hell of a sweat, happy 30th bday to me
 

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