• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

68 Unimog 404 Restomod

SuperMochombo

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
83
246
33
Location
Albany, NY
Mercedes Type C winch. I have one, and up until a few days ago I didn't know a darn thing about it except that it looks the part. So I learned a little about it, and tested it out. Very glad to report it works as advertised, but I was a little sad that the manual calls for two man operation. I'm only one man most of the time, and operating the winch requires some hopping in and out of the truck. Here's what I learned:

There are no official English translations of the manual. So I read threads, and eventually found out that the Type C winch is PTO driven. It only powers in, it does not power out, although I have a brake so I can lower off heavy objects. But the cable must be pulled off the spool.

To operate it, start the truck. On the top of the winch there are two levers. The longer one is the brake, sprung into the off position, and a selector handle that is labeled EIN and AUGHT which means in and out. Move the lever to the AUGHT position. This releases the spool. This can be problematic, both getting the lever to shift and then getting the spool to unwind initially.

Pull off the amount of cable you need and secure it around something solid. Go back and get in the cab, set the hand throttle at a high idle and push in the clutch. Take the main shift lever and push it over into the high range neutral, as if you were going to try to start in 5th gear, but leave it in neutral. Release the clutch. You will hear the engine change pitch. Then push the clutch in again, and pull up on the PTO lever. You will hear the PTO engage and start spinning, and feel it too.

Now slowly release the clutch. You will see the winch spool start to turn and if you release the clutch completely the motor takes the full load and you start winding in. You will drag towards whatever you are hooked to.

Once you are winched in, press the clutch in again, and push down on the PTO lever. Then release the clutch and you are done.

The gears sit in a bath of gear oil (makes sense) and I topped it up. Painted the winch and bumper, and put the cable guide back on.



IMG_20240707_164727566.jpgIMG_20240707_203203423.jpgIMG_20240708_114210307.jpg
 

SuperMochombo

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
83
246
33
Location
Albany, NY
Brakes mostly done and functioning, no leaks! I rebuilt the front two wheel cylinders, and replaced the rear. Replaced all the crushed brake lines on the axles. Bled everything and they stop the truck. I know for sure that its' at least better now because all 4 wheel cylinders were completely frozen. It is a minor miracle I had any brakes at all before, with the crushed brake lines and frozen cylinders. Now I can literally slide to a stop.

The only tricky part with this job is getting the shoe spring on and off. I eventually settled on a method whereby I pinch the spring near the hook with vice grips, then use a crowbar to lever off the wheel hub to push the spring outward and off the hook on the shoe. You need to put a strap around the shoes to keep the one you are trying to hook from backing away from your direction of pull.

I traced all the lines, and my system is different than the one shown in the manual diagrams. Mine is single circuit, with an air boost plumbed into the line. THe air booster is powered by the compressor. The compressor is not belted ATM so the booster cannot be boosting, but at least it seems like it is not restricting the brake functions so I left it in place. Eventually when I get the compressor going again, I will see about the air boost. For now it's doing no harm.

Progress! Today I'm going to start chasing the electrical stuff that I need for inspection. The list is brake lights, turn signals, a horn and windshield wipers.

Some pictures: first, one of the old rear cylinders. Second, my spring removal technique, and third a pic of the air booster. And fourth Daisy Duke driving a 404 naked!

IMG_20240712_150219622.jpg
IMG_20240712_161108504.jpgIMG_20240711_143214350.jpg
 

SuperMochombo

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
83
246
33
Location
Albany, NY
I just spent the day replacing blown fuses, and doing a little rewiring, and presto I now have wipers, brake lights, high beams, all 4 running lights, and hazard lights. The only things left for inspection are turn signals, a horn and seatbelts. Watch out! I'll be mogging around a neighborhood near you!

The horn is a mystery. I do have a soft rubber thing in the middle of the steering wheel, and there are a lot of speakers wired to the front bumper. I even have the blue light on top and a switch labeled blue light. Nothing yet though. I'm hoping when I do get the horn working it sounds like a train horn. Would be great if the blue light on top was wired to a recorded voice yelling FLIPPENZEEAUGHT!!!!!

The turn signals are a mystery. I have a switch labeled turn signal, so tomorrow I'll start from there and trace the wires.
 
Top