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68 Unimog 404 Restomod

SuperMochombo

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Mercedes Type C winch. I have one, and up until a few days ago I didn't know a darn thing about it except that it looks the part. So I learned a little about it, and tested it out. Very glad to report it works as advertised, but I was a little sad that the manual calls for two man operation. I'm only one man most of the time, and operating the winch requires some hopping in and out of the truck. Here's what I learned:

There are no official English translations of the manual. So I read threads, and eventually found out that the Type C winch is PTO driven. It only powers in, it does not power out, although I have a brake so I can lower off heavy objects. But the cable must be pulled off the spool.

To operate it, start the truck. On the top of the winch there are two levers. The longer one is the brake, sprung into the off position, and a selector handle that is labeled EIN and AUGHT which means in and out. Move the lever to the AUGHT position. This releases the spool. This can be problematic, both getting the lever to shift and then getting the spool to unwind initially.

Pull off the amount of cable you need and secure it around something solid. Go back and get in the cab, set the hand throttle at a high idle and push in the clutch. Take the main shift lever and push it over into the high range neutral, as if you were going to try to start in 5th gear, but leave it in neutral. Release the clutch. You will hear the engine change pitch. Then push the clutch in again, and pull up on the PTO lever. You will hear the PTO engage and start spinning, and feel it too.

Now slowly release the clutch. You will see the winch spool start to turn and if you release the clutch completely the motor takes the full load and you start winding in. You will drag towards whatever you are hooked to.

Once you are winched in, press the clutch in again, and push down on the PTO lever. Then release the clutch and you are done.

The gears sit in a bath of gear oil (makes sense) and I topped it up. Painted the winch and bumper, and put the cable guide back on.



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SuperMochombo

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Brakes mostly done and functioning, no leaks! I rebuilt the front two wheel cylinders, and replaced the rear. Replaced all the crushed brake lines on the axles. Bled everything and they stop the truck. I know for sure that its' at least better now because all 4 wheel cylinders were completely frozen. It is a minor miracle I had any brakes at all before, with the crushed brake lines and frozen cylinders. Now I can literally slide to a stop.

The only tricky part with this job is getting the shoe spring on and off. I eventually settled on a method whereby I pinch the spring near the hook with vice grips, then use a crowbar to lever off the wheel hub to push the spring outward and off the hook on the shoe. You need to put a strap around the shoes to keep the one you are trying to hook from backing away from your direction of pull.

I traced all the lines, and my system is different than the one shown in the manual diagrams. Mine is single circuit, with an air boost plumbed into the line. THe air booster is powered by the compressor. The compressor is not belted ATM so the booster cannot be boosting, but at least it seems like it is not restricting the brake functions so I left it in place. Eventually when I get the compressor going again, I will see about the air boost. For now it's doing no harm.

Progress! Today I'm going to start chasing the electrical stuff that I need for inspection. The list is brake lights, turn signals, a horn and windshield wipers.

Some pictures: first, one of the old rear cylinders. Second, my spring removal technique, and third a pic of the air booster. And fourth Daisy Duke driving a 404 naked!

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SuperMochombo

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I just spent the day replacing blown fuses, and doing a little rewiring, and presto I now have wipers, brake lights, high beams, all 4 running lights, and hazard lights. The only things left for inspection are turn signals, a horn and seatbelts. Watch out! I'll be mogging around a neighborhood near you!

The horn is a mystery. I do have a soft rubber thing in the middle of the steering wheel, and there are a lot of speakers wired to the front bumper. I even have the blue light on top and a switch labeled blue light. Nothing yet though. I'm hoping when I do get the horn working it sounds like a train horn. Would be great if the blue light on top was wired to a recorded voice yelling FLIPPENZEEAUGHT!!!!!

The turn signals are a mystery. I have a switch labeled turn signal, so tomorrow I'll start from there and trace the wires.
 

dougco1

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Cooperstown NY
Get that thing to pass inspection and you can take it for its maiden road trip to Cooperstown and see the hall of famed inductees this Sunday.
Make sure you pack your mattress because all the motels and hotels are all booked up.
I heard that security has been increased this year and they will have several more sharp shooters in place to protect the ball players
 

SuperMochombo

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Horn complete! Down to turn signals. I will totally drive over. I go to glimmerglass State Park a lot, and a few years ago I went to Cooperstown for a boat repair job. Not a baseball fan but always up for Mogventure.

The turn signals are giving me trouble. Update later tonight I'm currently diagnosing... Good news is I found a probable culprit. Looks like the power from the headlight switch feeding the flasher relay is no good. Also good news that the turn signal switch itself tested good on the bench.

I'm really hoping I get it solved tonight, inspected tomorrow and if not Cooperstown Sunday, at work Monday.

Once I'm road legit, I'm dying to go to a SS rally.
 

dougco1

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Cooperstown NY
Horn complete! Down to turn signals. I will totally drive over. I go to glimmerglass State Park a lot, and a few years ago I went to Cooperstown for a boat repair job. Not a baseball fan but always up for Mogventure.

The turn signals are giving me trouble. Update later tonight I'm currently diagnosing... Good news is I found a probable culprit. Looks like the power from the headlight switch feeding the flasher relay is no good. Also good news that the turn signal switch itself tested good on the bench.

I'm really hoping I get it solved tonight, inspected tomorrow and if not Cooperstown Sunday, at work Monday.

Once I'm road legit, I'm dying to go to a SS rally.
You will pass by my place when you turn south onto co rt 31 towards the State Park. Another member "Zebedee" is a few miles north of US rt 20 on 31. He's into the British and European trucks.
A nice rally/swap meet is the Military Transport Association of NJ (MTA). It's in Northwestern NJ in the springtime. Went a few years back and loved it.
 

SuperMochombo

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I got em working! It ain't to pretty, I stole power from the horn, then added a wire from 49 a on the flasher to 49a (+) on the switch, and grounded the 4th terminal on the flasher which is labeled 31. Lucky guess that one. Also strange is the fact that they won't work unless the running lights are on. There are still issues with the wiring but for now I think I'm inspectable.
 

SuperMochombo

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I've been driving around the hood! I'm getting used to it. Seems like the more I drive the better it runs. Now that I have cleaned and greased the steering its not that bad. Takes some strength. With the mirrors properly adjusted you can see behind to back up, but there are pretty big blind spots. Top speed so far is 43. I have been taking it easy, not trying to wind the motor too bad.

But I noticed a few things right away. When I hit the brakes, it kills the turn signal if it's on, and lights up the right front running light 😨

And it's crazy loud. Not only wind noise, but gear whine, tire hum, engine. Lotta creaks squeaks and rattles.

Pretty hot in the cab too. On the plus there is great ventilation and you feel a breeze. The motor is right next to you though, and the little engine jacket isn't much for sound or temperature insulation. Better than nothing, but only a little.

I love it. All I want to do is drive it.
 

SuperMochombo

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I've been driving the Unimog a lot. I drove it to a job site about an hour and a half, then next day same trip home. Also for local errands and such. I checked the portals and diffs temp, and seems good. Engine temps have been good even with the heat. Oil pressure good, and the fuel delivery system works perfectly as long as I put gas in the tanks.

I'm getting better at driving it on the road. Itching to get off-road and try to get stuck. And I slept in the box overnight. Painted the rear bumper. Discovered I have working dome lights back there.

Driving would be easier if the brakes worked better. I have an air assisted hydraulic booster and it's plumbed into the brake lines as well as the compressor, and I have read it will help the pedal, which I currently have to pump to build pressure. I have a belt so Saturday I put it on.

Compressor pulley is out of whack and wobbles pretty bad, so after running a short time, I took the compressor out. Bit of a job but I got it done.

I can't tell if the pulley is warped or the shaft is bent or both, but I can tell the pump is doing something because when you put your finger over the intake port and rotate the pulley you feel suction. Ditto the air output port with pressure. So the pump works.

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Now that it's on the bench, I'm thinking maybe I should have left it in the truck and just used a pry bar to true it up a little. I'll bet someone bent it up trying to pry against the pulley to move it to get the belt off. The pulley rides too close to the generator pulley to get the belt on/off and you have to loosen a few bolts on the bracket and pry the compressor forward. Tempting to pry against the pulley.

I didn't see pressure on the dash gauge during the brief running time.

More air components.

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This is supposed to be a tire inflator I think but it does not look like the one in the manual. Also the compressor itself is different than the one the manual discusses.
 

SuperMochombo

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Compressor project on hold for a bit. I have learned that my pump won't do much more than boost my brakes and air my tires, while continuously robbing precious HP bc it's continuous duty. I'm sourcing a York 210 pump. I might put the Westinghouse back in to test the booster.

But I really wanted to test out the bumper crane and see if I can get the winch on and off with it. So I pulled out all the parts, put it together and it works pretty well. There's a single circuit 12 volt hydraulic pump mounted in the box with an up and down control you plug into an outlet in the grill. Hydraulic quick connect hidden in the bumper. Pretty cool, but also pretty limited. I can pick up heavy stuff. Good nuff.

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SuperMochombo

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I used the crane to lift the winch off. Not graceful, took a lot of adjustment and then once I got it free of the bumper I couldn't lower it to ground level. Lucky I had a stout project bench on big casters that was bumper height.

As much as I love the functionality of the winch, and its own tough beauty, it hides the iconic 404 grill (and the MB symbol) which is nice to see too.
 

SuperMochombo

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Physics tells us that objects that have mass also have gravity. I'm feeling the pull of the Unimog. I find myself wandering over, looking at things, opening doors, flipping switches, and considering.

I got into the bodywork today. There is a good bit of rust all over. Nothing disastrous, but it needs to be nipped in the bud. And I can't drive around with these obvious signs of neglect waving like a flag.

I'm going to paint the entire box and cab. White on top like a school bus. Black on the bottom including bumpers. The rest desert sand.
 

SuperMochombo

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Painting. Scoping tools for a pioneer kit. Shopping for tires.

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I could do a thread called Impatient Cheapest Paint Job Possible, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't ever help anyone. Im going to have to open up a few small spots again, and I'm actually just repeating someone else too. Three rust pockets, stable and I just gave em two years.
 
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