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84’ M1009 Glow plugs

Huertam96

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Houston tx
Went to orielys to buy some new glow plugs but they didn’t have the correct ones. The male part was bigger than the glow plugs I originally have. Where could I order them from ?
 

deank

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You may need to trim the connector on the glow plugs. I had to do that on the ones I bought. They work really well.
 

Barrman

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The 60G plugs are what they tried to sell you probably. Those are self regulating glow plugs. They shouldn’t explode or swell like other models. To make them work you either have to trim or cut the blade on the glow plug or replace the wiring plug on the truck side.

The 13 G plugs while a direct bolt up can swell and explode in some situations.

My signature below has a link to my YouTube channel. I have a video about checking/ testing glow plugs. Are your old ones really bad?
 

87cr250r

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The 60G glow plugs use a Packard 56 type terminal if you want to cut your existing terminals off.


You can use the plastic housings if you want. Maybe a sleeve of silicone rubber would be better. The last generation of 6.5 had porcelain housings but I don't know where one would find those.

You can use regular spade terminals but they loosen up after only a few plugging and unpluggings.
 

CenterMass762

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Location
TN
Shoot, I guess the terminals were already replaced by the Army to fit 60Gs when I got it. Sorry, I guess I left that part out. 😬
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
AC Delco 13G are a direct fit. No trimming.
28 years of driving CUCV's and never used anything but the Ac Delco 13G. I never walked anywhere or had exploding glow plugs. It's sounds exciting. What must I do to have my glow plugs explode? I just want to be able to say I been there and done that. I did convert several back to stock with the ballasts and all. Take Care and Be Safe. Don't abort a stock CUCV. The TM's are useless after that.
 

Barrman

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Location
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I don’t try to start or continue online arguments. Way too many ways to interpret the written word wrong and get a feud started when none was intended.

With that written, this is an observation. Not an argument. You are very correct that an all stock CUCV glow plug and starting system works excellent when all of the components are correct and working properly. The problems I have seen happen when people modify the stock system. Often it was done by a previous owner and the new owner has no idea of the modification. This part of the country really doesn’t have a winter. We just have a few days below 45° sandwiched between 80° days. Today is one of those days. 42° this morning and it was 78° yesterday.

2 or 3 semi functioning glow plugs would have started a 6.2 yesterday. Today might require at least half of them working. With that in mind it seems very common for people to put a momentary switch on the blue wire to manually activate the glow plugs. Or some other “hot wire” modification to make the engine start on days like today. The rest of the time it really doesn’t matter to some people. I am not one of those people.

But I have seen the results of such modifications. I have had to slide hammer remove many glow plugs on engines that came to me with them already swollen. I have also had just the threaded base come out with nothing else anywhere in the precup or cylinder. Exploding and swelling glow plugs do happen is my experience.

This forum and just about every forum I visit has a requirement for members to list their location. We all see the at least weekly admonishments by moderators for people to actually do that. So, even though I would like to have all members fill out a mechanical skills and understanding questionnaire on sign up. It just isn’t practical. So, when people post a question there is no green wrench next to their name signifying they know what a volt is, have a 10mm socket wrench and can open the hood without assistance.

That leaves us with several options when replying to a question. Assume they know nothing or assume they are an ASE master. We also have to figure out the condition of their vehicle. Bone stock or modified.

This particular thread was going in the “can open the hood” and “truck has been modified” direction. 13G glow plugs in a modified momentary switch glow plug system will swell or explode if used improperly. I have personally dealt with the aftermath on other peoples vehicles. 60G glow plugs will not. They might burn out and need to be replaced, but the entire glow plug will come out of the engine with ease.

We are all individual owners of our vehicles and can do as we wish with them. What is correct to some is outrageously wrong to others. The important part is what is “right” for the owner of the vehicles.
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
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Location
Gainesville, GA
I don’t try to start or continue online arguments. Way too many ways to interpret the written word wrong and get a feud started when none was intended.

With that written, this is an observation. Not an argument. You are very correct that an all stock CUCV glow plug and starting system works excellent when all of the components are correct and working properly. The problems I have seen happen when people modify the stock system. Often it was done by a previous owner and the new owner has no idea of the modification. This part of the country really doesn’t have a winter. We just have a few days below 45° sandwiched between 80° days. Today is one of those days. 42° this morning and it was 78° yesterday.

2 or 3 semi functioning glow plugs would have started a 6.2 yesterday. Today might require at least half of them working. With that in mind it seems very common for people to put a momentary switch on the blue wire to manually activate the glow plugs. Or some other “hot wire” modification to make the engine start on days like today. The rest of the time it really doesn’t matter to some people. I am not one of those people.

But I have seen the results of such modifications. I have had to slide hammer remove many glow plugs on engines that came to me with them already swollen. I have also had just the threaded base come out with nothing else anywhere in the precup or cylinder. Exploding and swelling glow plugs do happen is my experience.

This forum and just about every forum I visit has a requirement for members to list their location. We all see the at least weekly admonishments by moderators for people to actually do that. So, even though I would like to have all members fill out a mechanical skills and understanding questionnaire on sign up. It just isn’t practical. So, when people post a question there is no green wrench next to their name signifying they know what a volt is, have a 10mm socket wrench and can open the hood without assistance.

That leaves us with several options when replying to a question. Assume they know nothing or assume they are an ASE master. We also have to figure out the condition of their vehicle. Bone stock or modified.

This particular thread was going in the “can open the hood” and “truck has been modified” direction. 13G glow plugs in a modified momentary switch glow plug system will swell or explode if used improperly. I have personally dealt with the aftermath on other peoples vehicles. 60G glow plugs will not. They might burn out and need to be replaced, but the entire glow plug will come out of the engine with ease.

We are all individual owners of our vehicles and can do as we wish with them. What is correct to some is outrageously wrong to others. The important part is what is “right” for the owner of the vehicles.
I like your point here. Question. I am "can open the hood" kind of guy. I daily drive a m1008 and it has a manual glow plug momentary button. When it is anywhere between 50-65 degrees outside it takes a good 10 seconds of glow plugs to get it to fire off. I have been assuming I should look into replacing my glow plugs. What is the "correct" or advised glow plug time required to get the 6.2 to get going?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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Location
Giddings, Texas
First start of the day no matter the temperature with good glow plugs should be 10-15 seconds minimum.

Below 60° and figure 15-20 seconds if you have 60G glow plugs. If you have anything else then for sure don’t go more than 20 seconds.

Below 40° and figure 20-25 seconds.

20-25 seconds will work for temperatures down to around zero. But, all 8 glow plugs need to be functioning, the fuel filter needs to be clean, the fuel has to be treated for gelling, the batteries need to pass the load test, the starter motor needs to be correct, the air filter needs to be clean and all the wiring needs to be clean and properly connected.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
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Location
Rodeo, Ca
Don't forget the throttle shaft seal. This really is the only part that actually wears out on the current generation Stanadyne pumps. Your engine will start right away but die as soon as you drive 50 feet down the road.
 

Curtisje

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Okinawa, Japan
I like your point here. Question. I am "can open the hood" kind of guy. I daily drive a m1008 and it has a manual glow plug momentary button. When it is anywhere between 50-65 degrees outside it takes a good 10 seconds of glow plugs to get it to fire off. I have been assuming I should look into replacing my glow plugs. What is the "correct" or advised glow plug time required to get the 6.2 to get going?
10-12 seconds are the guideline I have follwed.


I don't know why I can't download this pdf. I can only view it on the webpage.

Good luck.
 

Mullaney

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Supporting Vendor
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