AcuTemp Refrigerator

[wheelspinner]

I'll double check tomorrow to be sure but:

The power cord connection is the same for the MRE heater. I made up my own using a set of alligator clips to connect to my truck battery, some 2 strand wire, and one of these. *it only uses two wires if I recall (I'll have to confirm the pin out).

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Making up a 110v connect would be the same I assume.

I'll get back with ya...

That connector is the same as the flasher connector (if you have any parts trucks sitting around)

 

[Third From Texas]

I'll double check tomorrow to be sure but:

The power cord connection is the same for the MRE heater. I made up my own using a set of alligator clips to connect to my truck battery, some 2 strand wire, and one of these. *it only uses two wires if I recall (I'll have to confirm the pin out).

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Making up a 110v connect would be the same I assume.

I'll get back with ya...

Here's the pinout

I'm not sure exactly how a 24v NATO connect would be hooked up but the unit supposedly can run on 12v/24v/120v/solar

*I'm no electrical engineer so excuse the crude drawing

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Here's the pinout

I'm not sure exactly how a 24v NATO connect would be hooked up but the unit supposedly can run on 12v/24v/120v/solar

*I'm no electrical engineer so excuse the crude drawing

View attachment 867323

Thanks, I can work with that! Hopefully I can track down ana actual set of cords.

 

[Jayhawk#44]

loose 3.6v Li battery found in the bottom of the green case. Where is it from? And this metal panel was laying in the top storage area just loose.

No 12v batteries either. Sun saver solar controller is connected but not bolted down, appears undamaged.

Getting ready to put 120v AC to it. Any advice is appreciated!!!

Matt

 

[Third From Texas]

View attachment 867529View attachment 867530loose 3.6v Li battery found in the bottom of the green case. Where is it from? And this metal panel was laying in the top storage area just loose.

No 12v batteries either. Sun saver solar controller is connected but not bolted down, appears undamaged.

Getting ready to put 120v AC to it. Any advice is appreciated!!!

Matt

View attachment 867531

Battery powers the motherboard basically. It would go in the slot top/left of you image there. You should see two tabs it sits between. Rechargeable and can get replacement on Amazon for cheap.

I don't recognize that panel...

 

[Third From Texas]

I know the unit will run on 120v with dead batteries but not sure about no batteries. Be damned sure you tape off the battery leads so they don't short (because it should in theory go right into charge mode and there's metal bits that hold the batteries that could arc out.

Do you not have the TM for that unit?

 

[Third From Texas]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/HemaCool_Operations_5_13_05.pdf

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/HemaCool_Service_5_13_05.pdf

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Good grief! You guys rock! But seriously who sits around on Friday night working on this stuff? Oh, wait, damn, that's me on a Friday night!!!

Well, I put 120V to it per the above pinout. Nothing happened, but at least nothing let the smoke out in the process.

I'll find the mother board and put the battery back in place. Where is the Motherboard???

Thanks again!!!

Matt

 

[TomTime]

Good grief! You guys rock! But seriously who sits around on Friday night working on this stuff? Oh, wait, damn, that's me on a Friday night!!!

Well, I put 120V to it per the above pinout. Nothing happened, but at least nothing let the smoke out in the process.

I'll find the mother board and put the battery back in place. Where is the Motherboard???

Thanks again!!!

Matt

As the figure of the Mother Board that @Third From Texas sent (#225) this is where the Mother Broad is located in the unit.

Mother Board


Mother Board and where AA battery goes.


It's in the TM.

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction for the motherboard! I'll try and go through the TM as time permits.

Anyone know if it will power up without the 12v batteries?

Fuse is good and I have line voltage to what I assume is the power supply.

Nothing inside looks disconnected and the cooling system does not appear to be vented/drilled.

Odd difference from prior pics in this thread is my lack of the multicolored wire bundles coming off the control panel. I have a single black Cat 5 cable.

My build date is 2005 or 6.

I'll try and jumper in batteries to simulate the presence of 12v batteries.

Hopefully it will power on then.

Thanks all!

Matt

 

[Third From Texas]

Yeah, I suspect that it might not function w/o batteries but don't know for sure. I know that if any DC power is applied, it automatically begins to charge. So there might be some sort of requirement to complete the circuit. The good news is that the batteries can be had from Amazon for pretty cheap. Or a local Interstate Battery will always have them in stock. Walmart might even have them.

Can't help with the wiring question as mine not only has the 8 bolts that hold the collar rim on, but by lid is also hinged/thru-bolted with gas struts...and all that would have to come off to get inside to see.

 

[DieselAddict]

It will run fine without the batteries so long as the power supply is OK.

 

[DieselAddict]

I'll add that it will NOT run on the DC power input with out the batteries. Only the AC power input.

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Okay, I'm thinking I have a modified unit. Top pic is on my unit indicating an upgrade. Middle pic is from page 8 of this thread. Clearly different motherboard area from mine with a different motherboard area and a solar charger at the bottom that is missing in the prior pic.

Also, there are several mounting screws that are loose or missing on the motherboard, solar charger and power supply.

Doesn't look scavenged because there is not a single loose or disconnected plug or wiring.

Thoughts???

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Went through the TM, I do not have the long motherboard. This is weird. My board in the TM motherboard position is about 1/3 the length of the TM diagram Motherboard. That, and I have a separate independent solar controller down. Below the motherboard location.

Do I have an upgraded version, with a different TM, or a half assed upgrade, or a non-upgraded with the upgrade sticker?

Or a box of parts

All help is appreciated!

Matt

 

[maa45069]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction for the motherboard! I'll try and go through the TM as time permits.

Anyone know if it will power up without the 12v batteries?

Fuse is good and I have line voltage to what I assume is the power supply.

Nothing inside looks disconnected and the cooling system does not appear to be vented/drilled.

Odd difference from prior pics in this thread is my lack of the multicolored wire bundles coming off the control panel. I have a single black Cat 5 cable.

My build date is 2005 or 6.

I'll try and jumper in batteries to simulate the presence of 12v batteries.

Hopefully it will power on then.

Thanks all!

Matt

It will power up without batteries may take a couple minutes to start up.

 

[maa45069]

Btw you can buy cheap batteries on Amazon

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Btw you can buy cheap batteries on Amazon

I'm going to jumper in a coupe of 12v batteries from work just to test the unit. We have lots of old ones sitting around for spares and mockups. Once I prove it works I'll purchase some good ones.

I wonder if one could sub in Lithium batteries in place of lead acid. Might get more amp hours and reduced weight

Thanks all!

Matt

 

[DieselAddict]

Lithium’s will work. You’ll want to use iron phosphate flavor with a BMS since they will work better voltage wise in place of SLA batteries. If you are running on DC input and the batteries are mostly discharged the unit may not start until their charge comes up some.

 

[Jayhawk#44]

Lithium’s will work. You’ll want to use iron phosphate flavor with a BMS since they will work better voltage wise in place of SLA batteries. If you are running on DC input and the batteries are mostly discharged the unit may not start until their charge comes up some.

Thanks, I hope jumping in a couple of batteries from work will do the trick.

This unit is very different than the previously pictures units, and different from the 2 maintenance manual revisions I've found.

Different motherboard (1/3 the length and no battery holder), different power supply, COTS solar power charge manager, CAT5 coming off the control panel vs multi-strand flat cable, fuses are vertical not horizontal, and multiple wire bundles with 2014 and 2015 date codes (49/2014 and 7/2015) whereas the DC 12v batt wires date code to 2005 similar to the 3Q2005 build date.

I'm begining to think this is a 2015 upgraded unit.

Might just email the tech support email for Csafe on the box and ask real nice. Maybe I can get the updated manuals.

Thanks,

Matt