Any quality diesel fuel system cleaners?

[rustystud]

Thanks everyone. So heres the scoop... only the second time I've been able to get at this machine. When it first arrived I changed fluids and oil filter (didnt have fuel filter in stock)... was getting zero fuel in the seperator after getting it to stall out 30 seconds after run. I figured there was a clog in the line... will diagnose later.

Got a few minutes yesterday to play around. Unhooked the primary metal fuel line and primed the system... she pumps. I at least know that portion of the world works. I hooked the line back up, and now was getting fuel to come out the seperator. I proceeded to let it run unloaded for about 10 minutes.. stalled once in that time (no fuel light). I tried this in both the prime and the aux setting (in case it was a pump issue after all).

Finally got it nice and warm, and hooked up my load bank to see whats going on. Power at the convenience just fine. Flipped one of my 5.4kw circuits and this machine slowed to a crawl. Dumped that line, allowed to return to full RPMs, and flipped the 2.7kw line and she ran much better... but was still slower than before. Got bored and reversed it back to the other circuit, and she stalled out under load (no fuel light).

I want to make sure this thing is getting enough fuel before I worry about too many other items. It just sounds like its being starved... but I guess we shall find out.

Replace those filters !

 

[Light in the Dark]

Will be changed in about 12 hours

 

[Light in the Dark]

Filter was changed... and we have improved, but its not fixed. It is still stalling out after 10 minutes under 'no fuel' conditions. What is the likelihood that this is being cased by something in the water seperator? I really don't want to take that **** thing off... but if I have to, then the fight it will be. I have a replacement Wix filter with knob drip at the bottom (which would replace the OEM can)... dont really want to use it because I would then lose the tubing.

It will only hold rpm and hertz under the 2.7kw load I put on. If I put the 5.4 circuit... she bogs down to 30hz and very slow rpms. I am assuming its all still fuel flow related. Keep going back out to restart and reengage to keep the fuel burning (and Seafoam circulating).

 

[Guyfang]

You mean the idiot light come on?

 

[Zed254]

From troubleshooting section of TM. And it ain't what you want to read......

6. ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER.
Step 1. Check for restricted fuel filter/water separator.
a. If fuel filter/water separator is not restricted, do Step 2.
b. If restricted, replace fuel filter/water separator element, paragraph 2-87.
Step 2. Check for contaminated or incorrect grade of fuel.
a. If fuel is not contaminated and correct grade, do Step 3.
b. If contaminated or incorrect grade, drain fuel tank. Replace fuel filter/water separator element, paragraph
2-87. Service tank with dean fuel of proper grade (Table 2-2). Prime engine fuel system in
accordance with TM 9-2815-252-24.
Step 3. Check for blocked air intake system.
a. If air intake system is not blocked, do Step 4.
b. If blocked, unblock or replace air intake system components as required, paragraph 2-66.
2-16
ARMY TM 9-6115-641-24
AIR FORCE TO 35C2-3-456-12
Table 2-6. UNIT TROUBLESHOOTING - Continued.
MALFUNCTION
TEST OR INSPECTION
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Step 4. Check blocked exhaust pipe or muffler.
a. If blocked, unblock or replace muffler, paragraph 2–65.
b. If exhaust pipe and muffler are not blocked, notify next higher level of maintenance.

 

[Guyfang]

Not so fast. We need to know if the idiot light came on.

LITD,

Did the idiot light, (Fault indicator) came on when the set shut off.

Think now guys. What turns the idiot light on? Fuel pressure? No. Plugged up fuel lines? No. Water in the separator? No. What turns it on?

Low fuel level turns it on.
The FL-1 and FL-2 switch can turn it on, when the switch is bad.
The A-9, Float Switch Module can turn it on when it is bad.

LITD, you have access to another known good set, I think. Try changing the A-9 first. Does not make a mess to change it. Then the Float switch.



OK, will look at this thread in the AM. Its almost 24:30 and I need to save up my beauty sleep. Cause..................................

On tuesday, its.......................................... ROAD TRIP TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Going to see THE WORLDS GREATEST ROCK N' ROLL BAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE ROLLING STONES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This old man needs to save up energie, because I am going to ROCK OUT!!

Later,

Guy

 

[Zed254]

Rock on!! Wish I was going, too!!

 

[dav5]

On tuesday, its.......................................... ROAD TRIP TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Going to see THE WORLDS GREATEST ROCK N' ROLL BAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE ROLLING STONES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This old man needs to save up energie, because I am going to ROCK OUT!!

Later,

Guy[/QUOTE]
Wow The Stones. I am envious. I hope you bought the 799 euro tickets for the pit. Ted

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yes, the idiot light is coming on.

 

[Kenny0]

One of the best cleaners there is is B100. If if you can find it.

I keep a gallon or so on hand and put a couple ounces in fuel being used. I run straight B100 if I suspect the fuel system needs cleaning.

Do NOT put it in fuel being stored.

Doesn't most diesel fuel today contain 5% or so of bio-diesel to add lubricity to the ultra-low sulfur diesel? My understanding is that it not the sulfur in the fuel that has the lubrication, but the process to remove the sulfur causes it to lose lubricity and bio-fuel is an economical way to put lubricity back in. You are right about storing bio-diesel.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Not so fast. We need to know if the idiot light came on.

LITD,

Did the idiot light, (Fault indicator) came on when the set shut off.

Think now guys. What turns the idiot light on? Fuel pressure? No. Plugged up fuel lines? No. Water in the separator? No. What turns it on?

Low fuel level turns it on.
The FL-1 and FL-2 switch can turn it on, when the switch is bad.
The A-9, Float Switch Module can turn it on when it is bad.

LITD, you have access to another known good set, I think. Try changing the A-9 first. Does not make a mess to change it. Then the Float switch.



OK, will look at this thread in the AM. Its almost 24:30 and I need to save up my beauty sleep. Cause..................................

On tuesday, its.......................................... ROAD TRIP TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Going to see THE WORLDS GREATEST ROCK N' ROLL BAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE ROLLING STONES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This old man needs to save up energie, because I am going to ROCK OUT!!

Later,

Guy

Yes, I have a access to an 803A... but the the gas gauge has never read right. Havent had time to track down if its the gauge or the sender. Open one door... two more problems present themselves. Guess I don't have much of a choice.

I've got two folks already interested in this 802, so I'd like to get it fully online soon. Do you feel the deep draw down under normal load is tied to this?

 

[Daybreak]

[HR][/HR]Howdy,
You still have the original fuel/water separator filter on.

Change that out!

Then come back to us and see how its working.

SOP = change all filters. Change oil. charge batteries. clean fuel tank. put fresh diesel in with additives.

run generator and load test it, gradually adding more load.

 

[rustystud]

If after you clean out the water separator and it still runs bad then try and bypass the F1 and F2 and then the A9 float switch like Guy mentioned.

 

[DieselAddict]

Doesn't most diesel fuel today contain 5% or so of bio-diesel to add lubricity to the ultra-low sulfur diesel? My understanding is that it not the sulfur in the fuel that has the lubrication, but the process to remove the sulfur causes it to lose lubricity and bio-fuel is an economical way to put lubricity back in. You are right about storing bio-diesel.

If it does it has to be labeled as such. I've not seen it indicated on any of the normal pumps I frequent. Lubricity is absolutely a problem. That is the other reason I add a bit of biodiesel to my generator tanks. For lubricity you only need 1-2%.

 

[Guyfang]

If the idiot light comes on, then it's not a "fuel" problem, in the sense of bad fuel. It's an electrical problem. Read my last post. The ONLY way for the light to come on is the three reasons I gave you. Well, it's also possible that the fault indicator is bad. But that's a long shot. All the other reasons you all have given before, can not, repeat can not turn the light on. Find out why it shuts down for a Low Fuel Fault.

 

[Light in the Dark]

So a bit more info... I noticed that the fuel gauge would go from Full and swing all the way to Empty (randomly), stay there for a second, and swing back. It would do this like once every few minutes.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Oh, and I hope you enjoy the Stones Guy. I saw them in Hartford, CT about 15 years ago... 6 rows from the stage. My parents have seen them live 20 times.

 

[Guyfang]

Its going to be good. I have seen them a number of times. Its always great. I saw them in 214, in Berlin, on my sons birthday. The Waldbüne in Berlin is simply the greatest concert venue in the world. NO BAD SEATS in the place. I saw them in Leipzig and Frankfurt. Your parents are welcome over here any day!

OK, down to biz. The signals for FL1 and FL2 run through the A9. And they do, every once in awhile go bad. I changed several. Its easy to change.

Ok, got to run. Need to pick up the bus for the morning. ) people in the bus is tight, but as long as the beer cooler fits in, we are good!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Reading through 9-6115-641-24 before work:

1-12-1-2. The Fault System consists of the malfunction indicator, low fuel level float switch, fuel float switch module,fuel level relay, low oil pressure switch, oil pressure relay, coolant high temperature switch, overvoltage relay, overload/short circuit relay, engine fault relay, and BATTLE SHORT switch. In addition to the fault indicator lamps, the malfunctionindicator includes the PUSH TEST & RESET LAMPS switch which when depressed, illuminates all the lamps and resetsany fault indication.

1-12-1-3-3. Low Fuel Level Float Switch. This device will activate when the fuel Ievel falls to a point at which the operatingtime of the set at rated Ioad is four minutes.

1-12-1-4. Fuel Float Switch Module. This device prevents inadvertent engine shutdown by providing a one second delayafter actuation of the low fuel level float switch.

All of which is exactly what you said, Guy. So it appears for simple testing purposes, I should be able to flip the battle short for continued testing (not a fix, mind you... but just to see if we continue to run and run). If this allows it to run for more than four minutes... then I can start to diagnose the big draw down of RPMs under load.

 

[Light in the Dark]

And the reason I want to see if the Battle Short switch works as intended, is I really want to burn through this tank of fuel with Seafoam to let it fully clean the fuel system. Not to take shortcuts.