Artisan's M916

[Artisan]

QF,
I am not 100% following you, but, if you are asking
me; "Where did you get that 30' and under info from?"

..then I can say, I see it, HERE, 12A and 12B . I read 12A-B to mean
that if I have no trailer, and my truck is under 30' long, I do not need
an AMBER on the SIDE at the front.
So are you saying an AMBER clearance light on the SIDE is required too? FRONT?

WAIT, are you saying, BRAD, YOU WILL BE TOWING A TRAILER, YOU WILL BE OVER
30' LONG SO YOU DO NEED AN AMBER CLEARANCE LIGHT ON THE SIDES AT THE FRONT
OF YOUR FLATBED EVEN THOUGH THE TRACTOR W/ FLATBED IS NOT 30' LONG!

 

[quickfarms]

QF,
I am not 100% following you, but, if you are asking
me; "Where did you get that 30' and under info from?"

..then I can say, I see it, HERE, 12A and 12B . I read 12A-B to mean
that if I have no trailer, and my truck is under 30' long, I do not need
an AMBER on the SIDE at the front.
So are you saying an AMBER clearance light on the SIDE is required too? FRONT?

WAIT, are you saying, BRAD, YOU WILL BE TOWING A TRAILER, YOU WILL BE OVER
30' LONG SO YOU DO NEED AN AMBER CLEARANCE LIGHT ON THE SIDES AT THE FRONT
OF YOUR FLATBED EVEN THOUGH THE TRACTOR W/ FLATBED IS NOT 30' LONG!

If you read the whole table that is the minimum based on federal title 49. The states can and do have additional requirements. The other problem is I did not see a date on the chart.

I can having the intermediate marker light on 2 axle dump trucks in the early 80's, the trucks were from the late 60's and early 70's

CA wants them

 

[Artisan]

So I think I said I took Rebel for it's first real run. All the way to
Ft Huachua, AZ and back w/ a few stops along the way. No really
big surprises, the Jake brake failure was an easy repair, the high beam
indicator light on the dash went out, light bulb and just yesterday
I did a walk around aired up w/ the engine off and I heard a hiss,
DANG! Air leak, outside air tank, PS, rear of tank. Looks like when
they made these tanks that they welded on the Female NPT weld on
plug w/ a spin welding process, and it is MINIMAL . I took off my
R Racing deigned 7155 Pressure Regulator and Oil Mister and conditioning
pad cleaned around the adaptor and shot it w/ glass beads and went looking
for a welder. It is paper thin metal, I was not going to attempt to weld it
so I called a bro, he gave me the phone number for a guy in Duarte, CA,
telling me he was really good and he welds stuff for Snap On etc. I paid
him a visit and this guy laid down a BEAUTIFUL bead...the skill some have...



I await the paint to dry and we will reassemble.

 

[Another Ahab]

It is paper thin metal, I was not going to attempt to weld it
so I called a bro, he gave me the phone number for a guy in Duarte, CA,
telling me he was really good and he welds stuff for Snap On etc. I paid
him a visit and this guy laid down a BEAUTIFUL bead...the skill some have...

That's some nice work right there.

 

[Artisan]

That's some nice work right there.

Indeed, the man works out of his home, he is very fair in
pricing. If anyone needs a real pro to do some work like this
let me know and I will put you in touch w/ him.

 

[R Racing]

Looks like my tig welds .

 

[Artisan]

Looks like my tig welds .

Your HIRED!

Anyone who needs welding on the east coast go see R Racing!

 

[Artisan]

On my recent trip to Tucson, a crazy chain of events landed
me at SS member 98G's place. He has a new welder and he can
lay down some good structural and eye pleasing beads. I didn't
want to tackle it alone and the stars align and SchZamm! We
got the bulk of it done.

My original concept was w/ shipping container twist locks at all 4
corners, but there were some challenges in doing that while
keeping the truck bone stock. This flat bed is 100% removable.
It will come off w/ 11 Bolts and my 5th wheels will go back on.

One of the rules was, I wanted to easily use 4" Flat Hook Rachet
Straps to hold a 10' ISO Container down (or cargo) so 98G suggested
a DS and PS rim made of 5" x 5" x .375" Angle. There are 9 cross bars
made of 4" x 4" x .25" wall square, some "L" brackets I fabbed up out of
3" x 3" x .375" angle, perimeter accessory mounts for stakes and everything
else I can dream up made of hitch receiver tube, some 4" Channel for
backing here and there and that is about it...heavy? yep. Do I care? nope.
What is this truck, the tractor alone, rated for? over 50K ? Ha! It goes
58 w/o floorin' it up most grades, w/ a small load so....

I finally have a good place to utilize my LMTV LMHC (Light Material
Handling Crane ). We welded in 2 pockets for it at the rear. Lights are
still in design, one step at a time, and speaking of steps I grabbed a
couple LMTV Ladders not long ago, passing one along to a friend in
Texas. I'll make a place to stow this ladder along w/ other fun as we
progress.

A sneak peek;

 

[R Racing]

so where is your 5th wheel? going to swap back and forth?

 

[Another Ahab]

I finally have a good place to utilize my LMTV LMHC (Light Material
Handling Crane ). We welded in 2 pockets for it at the rear. Lights are
still in design, one step at a time, and speaking of steps I grabbed a
couple LMTV Ladders not long ago, passing one alone to a friend in
Texas. I'll make a place to stow this ladder along w/ other fun as we
progress.

A sneak peek;

View attachment 538727

That's a nice item, Artisan. Somebody was making noise about starting a thread on light cranes like this.

Not meaning a hijack, but you got some specs on that?

 

[Artisan]

Nah...no hijackin'... it's all good........


In TM 9-2320-365-10 you can see all the good stuff and details.
Just do a PDF search for "LMHC". In a nutshell it is rated for 1500#
at all positions with the boom stowed at O*,25* or 57*. As soon
as you extend the boom you basically drop to 800#. Look at
the pic and you will see a handle for rotating w/ precision. The whole
shootin' match is portable.

I added a 1"-8 bolt to the very bottom so I can make it stay put when
driving.

I NEED LMHC PARTS.
PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANY PARTS

SPECIFICALLY I SEEK A CIRCUIT BREAKER BOX AND POWER CORD
(See P/N 6 in diagram) AND #3 CORD. It is a CANNON Bayonet 24-9 2- pin / socket connector.
AND I WOULD LIKE TO FIND A PEDESTAL EXTENSION.
I continue making the above stuff...

 

[Artisan]

That's a nice item, Artisan. Somebody was making noise about starting a thread on light cranes like this.

Not meaning a hijack, but you got some specs on that?

This thread is WIDE OPEN to any and all things, LMHC / Light Material Handling Crane

They are about as rare as hen's teeth. Once you see one you will
want one. There was a brand new one, IN WOOD BOX that sold for
INSANE money months ago in Utah I think it was.

PLEASE PM me if you have any parts for sale.

 

[Another Ahab]

This thread is WIDE OPEN to any and all things, LMHC / Light Material Handling Crane

They are about as rare as hen's teeth. Once you see one you will
want one. There was a brand new one, IN WOOD BOX that sold for
INSANE money months ago in Utah I think it was.

Makes sense, never knew they existed until you posted here.
That's a nice item. "Insane Money" is what +/-?

 

[Artisan]

It was over 2K for sure, I want to say almost 3K .

 

[Artisan]

so where is your 5th wheel? going to swap back and forth?

Yes, the key word here is "removable". I
I have a 3.5", and a 2" kingpin, oscillating 5 wheels plates and mounts for it.

I can't wait to accessorize...boxes and stake-style gates, chain lockers, tie-down o-ring
banjo holes...etc.

 

[zebedee]

Nah...no hijackin'... it's all good........

Can someone delete this - it's redundant now and I seem to only be able to edit!

 

[Another Ahab]

It was over 2K for sure, I want to say almost 3K .

You figure (and expect) surplus should be cheap, but if that item is all complete and functional:

- then around $2K (+/-) sounds about market for something like that.

- Particularly if it's mil-spec and "bomb-proof" (i.e., HD).

But you'd like to pick it up for a couple-few hundred. That'd be nice.

 

[Artisan]

SNIP ( A HUGE misunderstanding on others parts, all is handled, all is well SSville again... )

... the frame is now painted and bolted back down to the
bed w/ 11- 3/4" Mil Bolts and Nuts.

I designed a sandwich mount for the
front so no welding to frame was necessary and no frame drilling was necessary.
The second picture is looking up at that sandwich. 3 Nuts were weleded to the
cross member so as to allow this to happen.

 

[Artisan]

You figure (and expect) surplus should be cheap, but if that item is all complete and functional:

- then around $2K (+/-) sounds about market for something like that.

- Particularly if it's mil-spec and "bomb-proof" (i.e., HD).

But you'd like to pick it up for a couple-few hundred. That'd be nice.

I think I paid $335 or so, plus I flipped a guy $100 to pick it up for me.
The boom needed some massaging, the motor lid was missing, along
w/ power cord and circuit breaker and switch. I got insanely lucky
and found a NOS winch box assembly COMPLETE so now my winch motor
and solenoids are spare parts. Alls I have left to do is make the power cord
and I figured out a really cool way to do that w/ a small Pelican Box and
the male slave end from a slave cable connector off a 5 ton. I await a
circuit breaker and I need some nice #4 wire and "bazinga" I will be done... LOL

 

[quickfarms]

The problem with your design is each time you remove the bed and put the fifth wheel back on, or the reverse you have to do a vin verification and have the title and registration changed.

By bolting the bed down you have permanently modified the truck.

The bed on every truck would be removable by your definition.

To avoid this the fifth wheel needs to stay on the truck and the bed needs to use the king pin as one of the attachment points.

You are risking a ticket for an unregistered vehicle if you do not have the title and registration changed when the vehicle is converted.