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Bringing back to life a 2009 HMMWV M1165A1 from GovPlanet - total newbie, please help...

T9000

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Exactly!

And talking about flux capacitors lol, I am still laughing at the picture...here is something more in that direction, but not so esoteric...

I didn't spend time on the the details yet, but as a big picture concept, there is at least one other option to increase power without modifying the engine so the connecting rods stay in their place and even if they decide to come out for a beer on the side of the block, I can still post on this board lol

Given the latest advances in power & energy densities and magnetics, we could now replace the 200A alternator with a roughly 50kW BLDC for about the same size/ weight or even smaller, plus a bidirectional controller plus a small battery pack (the exact lithium chemistry TBD based on the application climate and overall thermal management strategy).

This could add about 50-60HP and at least 100 ft-lb of torque at very low RPMs for about $3k-$4k depending on the battery pack size and it will also add some regenerative braking ability that would be used to re-charge the batteries and improve fuel efficiency.

Of course several sensors would have to be added to synchronize the two motors power delivery, fail safe systems (even if the regenerative braking stops working, the regular brakes would take over, etc), some micro-controllers running code at the hardware level and system level, which are all typical in most cars these days. Being a brushless motor even if everything stops working it would add very little load to the existing engine. On the other hand, if the battery pack is large enough, even if the rods decide to come out it could still buy you a little time to get out of the road (unless the crankshaft shatters, in which case it could be installed on the other side of it, but it adds another level of complexity).

This mild-hybrid strategy has been applied by GMC (eAssist) and RAM (eTorque) but at a smaller scale (3-5kW) to keep the cost down. They charge about $1,500 for the option, which it means the parts cost about $600.
Of course another factor is the serpentine belt, which limits the amount of power that can be paralleled to the crankshaft so a direct-drive / chain type coupling would be needed for higher power levels.

Just another thought along the flux capacitor line, but based more on some reality...talking about having fun lol
 

Mullaney

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Exactly!

And talking about flux capacitors lol, I am still laughing at the picture...here is something more in that direction, but not so esoteric...

I didn't spend time on the the details yet, but as a big picture concept, there is at least one other option to increase power without modifying the engine so the connecting rods stay in their place and even if they decide to come out for a beer on the side of the block, I can still post on this board lol

Given the latest advances in power & energy densities and magnetics, we could now replace the 200A alternator with a roughly 50kW BLDC for about the same size/ weight or even smaller, plus a bidirectional controller plus a small battery pack (the exact lithium chemistry TBD based on the application climate and overall thermal management strategy).

This could add about 50-60HP and at least 100 ft-lb of torque at very low RPMs for about $3k-$4k depending on the battery pack size and it will also add some regenerative braking ability that would be used to re-charge the batteries and improve fuel efficiency.

Of course several sensors would have to be added to synchronize the two motors power delivery, fail safe systems (even if the regenerative braking stops working, the regular brakes would take over, etc), some micro-controllers running code at the hardware level and system level, which are all typical in most cars these days. Being a brushless motor even if everything stops working it would add very little load to the existing engine. On the other hand, if the battery pack is large enough, even if the rods decide to come out it could still buy you a little time to get out of the road (unless the crankshaft shatters, in which case it could be installed on the other side of it, but it adds another level of complexity).

This mild-hybrid strategy has been applied by GMC (eAssist) and RAM (eTorque) but at a smaller scale (3-5kW) to keep the cost down. They charge about $1,500 for the option, which it means the parts cost about $600.
Of course another factor is the serpentine belt, which limits the amount of power that can be paralleled to the crankshaft so a direct-drive / chain type coupling would be needed for higher power levels.

Just another thought along the flux capacitor line, but based more on some reality...talking about having fun lol
.
Some of those ideas are REALLY NEAT for sure!
 

T9000

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Back to reality, after driving the truck for a few days, there is a new radiator leak.
It seems light, in the front corner, passenger side. It didn't leak before, but when taking a closer look, given the way the rust looks, it seems to be a previous issue, which maybe didn't show until the truck got driven longer?

Overnight leak amount

Leak1.jpg

Actual leak location:

Front_Corner_Passenger_Side_Radiator.jpg

Light rust from previous leaks?

RadiatorLeakRust.jpg

Is there a relatively easier way to get under the radiator without removing it to take a closer at the leak?
 

Mullaney

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Back to reality, after driving the truck for a few days, there is a new radiator leak.
It seems light, in the front corner, passenger side. It didn't leak before, but when taking a closer look, given the way the rust looks, it seems to be a previous issue, which maybe didn't show until the truck got driven longer?

Overnight leak amount

View attachment 855842

Actual leak location:

View attachment 855843

Light rust from previous leaks?

View attachment 855844

Is there a relatively easier way to get under the radiator without removing it to take a closer at the leak?
.
Doubtful.

Don't know if you have a radiator shop in your town, but having them give yours a careful inspection - clean and pressure test - would be money well spent.
 

T9000

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Does anyone know what this 3 pin connector is for, on the driver side of the engine block, above the oil pan rear? Is it a sensor?

IMG_0849.JPG
 

Mogman

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Back to reality, after driving the truck for a few days, there is a new radiator leak.
It seems light, in the front corner, passenger side. It didn't leak before, but when taking a closer look, given the way the rust looks, it seems to be a previous issue, which maybe didn't show until the truck got driven longer?

Overnight leak amount

View attachment 855842

Actual leak location:

View attachment 855843

Light rust from previous leaks?

View attachment 855844

Is there a relatively easier way to get under the radiator without removing it to take a closer at the leak?
Replace it with an aluminum radiator, cheaper than a radiator shop and much more cooling capacity.
 

T9000

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Replace it with an aluminum radiator, cheaper than a radiator shop and much more cooling capacity.
Yes, I saw the aluminum ones are about $1,400?
But is it that bad that it requires replacement?
Thought maybe there is a way to get to the leak from underneath without removing half of the front end lol
 

T9000

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Replace it with an aluminum radiator, cheaper than a radiator shop and much more cooling capacity.
I did some more searching and ran into this aluminum one for the H1 for only @285 made by Champion, would this work?


It just seems so low?
 

T9000

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Replace it with an aluminum radiator, cheaper than a radiator shop and much more cooling capacity.
How about something like this made using the "vacuum brazing" process, (adding magnesium)?


Is anyone using something similar?
 

Mogman

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How about something like this made using the "vacuum brazing" process, (adding magnesium)?


Is anyone using something similar?
Same one you can buy for $255
Edit, every one I have seen are reselling the Champion radiator these are the ones I am using on my Duramax conversion and one is going into my GEP turbo conversion.
 

T9000

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Same one you can buy for $255
Edit, every one I have seen are reselling the Champion radiator these are the ones I am using on my Duramax conversion and one is going into my GEP turbo conversion.
So this will fit on my 2009 ECV (it has the extended front and geared fan)? I read somewhere saying that the ECV radiators are six inches longer?

If the $255 radiator works for my truck, I will order one today :)
 

Mogman

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So this will fit on my 2009 ECV (it has the extended front and geared fan)? I read somewhere saying that the ECV radiators are six inches longer?

If the $255 radiator works for my truck, I will order one today :)
Sorry I missed that you had an ECV, if the ECV radiator is different than this will not work, I have no experience with the ECV, you might want to drop Champion a line and ask about it, they do make custom radiators, you may not be the first to ask so they may have a solution.
 

T9000

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Sorry I missed that you had an ECV, if the ECV radiator is different than this will not work, I have no experience with the ECV, you might want to drop Champion a line and ask about it, they do make custom radiators, you may not be the first to ask so they may have a solution.
Please no worries, I appreciate your input. It turns out their office is about 20 minutes away from mine, I will call them right now.

EDIT: Hahaha, the guys I called are close to my office and they are using the ChampionRadiators.com domain, but they are just a reseller, not the manufacturer, however the manufacturer is not that far away. I called them and they don't know I am talking about, but the reseller, did say that it is possible that mine is different, he heard of another HMMWV radiator in existence, past 2006 that he doesn't have.

But the issue is not cooling capacity, which the aluminum once are much better at, the issue seems to be just the actual mechanical fit.

Maybe RetiredWarHorses or Action could comment if the newer 2009+ HMMWV radiators dimensions are the same with the previous years on turbo diesel engines?
 
Last edited:

Mogman

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Please no worries, I appreciate your input. It turns out their office is about 20 minutes away from mine, I will call them right now.
Remind them that a crap load of ECVs are being dumped on the surplus market! maybe you could work together to prototype one!
 

T9000

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Remind them that a crap load of ECVs are being dumped on the surplus market! maybe you could work together to prototype one!
I just spoke with the actual manufacturer and offered to go by so they can see the actual radiator, they said there is no need, because they already have one, the one they have been selling.

I first need to make sure that mine is indeed different, will try to measure it later today.
 
Last edited:

T9000

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That is your block heater. I have the part number for the cable, but can't access it now.
That was very helpful, it looks like that's a standard connector for engine block heaters and many types of harnesses could work.

Thank you!
 
Last edited:

T9000

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Surprisingly nobody commented about the radiators sizes lol....maybe I can add some useful info for a change :)

As it turns out, whoever I read saying that the ECV radiator was long by about 6 inches, they were right, at least when compared with the so called Champion HVB and HVB-TD made for the 6.5TD engine, which has a core height of 24.25" vs about 30.25" in my truck:

HVB.jpg

vs:

Radiator.JPG
 

Action

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Yup, radiators that go in the turbo H1 are not the same length as the ECV turbo HMMWV.
So if you call a company and look for a radiator for a turbo HMMWV, you may end up with a shorty. Some folks dont know the difference between humvee and H1.
 
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