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Connector to HMMWV 200 amp umbilical !!NOT slave cable plug!!

papakb

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Search Amphenol MS3452-32-1S for your female bulkhead connector. The MS designates a military connector, the 3452 designates a bulkhead mounting and the 32-1S means a size 32 connector in a style 1 pin configuration and the S means it's a socket (female). The 3452 style is aavailable with different backstyles. A 3450 will mount a strain relief, the 3452 has the wires plugged into the back.

These connectors are a nightmare to identify even for someone used to working with them. To someone unfamiliar with them it's all gibberish!
 
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Coug

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Search Amphenol MS3452-32-1S for your female bulkhead connector. The MS designates a military connector, the 3452 designates a bulkhead mounting and the 32-1S means a size 32 connector in a style 1 pin configuration and the S means it's a socket (female). The 3452 style is aavailable with different backstyles. A 3450 will mount a strain relief, the 3452 has the wires plugged into the back.

These connectors are a nightmare to identify even for someone used to working with them. To someone unfamiliar with them it's all gibberish!
Thanks for that. I definitely found it a bit frustrating, one of the plugs I bought I ended up damaging during disassembly to find the pin contact color codes. If I didn't have the plug in front of me I seriously doubt I'd have found any of this info.

Couldn't find anything with that exact part number, but when I change it to MS3452W32-1S it comes up. I only thought to change the "-" to "W" because that's the same format as the plug part number.


Looks like you can buy just the socket for about $100, so buying the entire umbilical kit for around $200 seems like a decent price as you don't have to worry about buying cables and crimping ends.
 

Coug

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I put the BEOD back on, and installed the plug onto the end of the cable.
In theory this should make things a little faster/easier whenever I install/remove the BEOD, and definitely less messing in the battery box.

I still have 10 amp 12v and 24v circuits to run, I'm thinking I'll run the wires to the back on the inverter instead of to the batteries so I'll only ever have to deal with the plug. The 10 amp circuit is only 3 lights (that I probably won't use) and a 12V outlet (that I also probably won't use), I'll do a 24/12 converter to deal with it.

521e8be1cf3c30a4000d2819ee201317c61a927d-1.jpg
 

Crik13

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(edited) To clear up the confusion, this post is me trying to share the part numbers I found related to the umbilical cable plug in the rear passenger footwell of the heavy variant HMMWVs (M1097, M1123) for anyone that might be looking for them. I found part numbers, and listed them below, as well as links to sites that list having those parts in stock.
Hopefully this helps someone else, as I spent many good hours looking for this plug before finding some with cut off cables on ebay (of which I bought both available, and I don't see any more).
(end edit)


(second edit) Here is a link to a site showing pricing and availability through multiple venders. Part is listed as coming with pins on at least one of the vender sites. This is only for the plug body, not the cable strain relief that attaches to the rear of the plug
(end second edit)


So searching here didn't turn up much, I've been looking for a while for the part numbers for the plug that will attach to the 200 amp umbilical.
Here is the umbilical in question (This part came installed in my M1123, just posting it here for reference.)



I finally managed to find a couple on Ebay, but they had the cables cut off very short, too short to splice the wires I have into it.
Part numbers the seller had listed for the connector were GlenAir #06324, M85049/52-1-32W, MS3417-32A.

The GlenAir number doesn't seem to come up as anything (only real hit was the ebay sale), the other two numbers one shows up as the part below, other doesn't come up as anything in a quick search.
M85049/52-1-32W Amphenol PCD | APM85049/52-1-32W-ND DigiKey Electronics


The ones I bought had a part number on them of MS3456W32-1P which brings up this item
(the image they used is generic for the series, not this specific plug)
I don't actually know everything that this particular part number comes with, so I don't know if it has the pins inside of it or not.


For mine I need to order new contact pins, so I disassembled one of the two I bought and took a look at it. Found the pin contact has a color code on it, finally tracked down that code to this part:
Amphenol Aerospace M39029/29-216

It's sized for 2-0 gauge cable.
The cable on the plug and on the BEOD I'm putting this connector on is 1-0 gauge.
To use with 1-0 gauge there is a bushing kit to reduce the size so that it will crimp in properly. (no picture for it)


Here are a couple pics of the ones I bought.
View attachment 791903View attachment 791904
I am looking for that also, or an option that will allow me to utilize. Is hooking up an inverter a possibility, what kind amp/v?
Thank you
 

Crik13

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I put the BEOD back on, and installed the plug onto the end of the cable.
In theory this should make things a little faster/easier whenever I install/remove the BEOD, and definitely less messing in the battery box.

I still have 10 amp 12v and 24v circuits to run, I'm thinking I'll run the wires to the back on the inverter instead of to the batteries so I'll only ever have to deal with the plug. The 10 amp circuit is only 3 lights (that I probably won't use) and a 12V outlet (that I also probably won't use), I'll do a 24/12 converter to deal with it.

View attachment 792295
How do you wire the inverter to this plug?
 

Coug

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How do you wire the inverter to this plug?
Just figure out which of the pins is positive, and which is negative. Treat it like any other DC power plug.

In the BEOD, the big cables already went to the inverter,and the ends were labeled as positive/negative, so it was just verifying which pin did which polarity and wire accordingly.
 

rolling18

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Just figure out which of the pins is positive, and which is negative. Treat it like any other DC power plug.

In the BEOD, the big cables already went to the inverter,and the ends were labeled as positive/negative, so it was just verifying which pin did which polarity and wire accordingly
 

Coug

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CAMO?..:
BEOD?.. so many new acronyms to HMMWV
CAMO is a member here.
not just a HMMWV thing, but he's the one making aftermarket boxes to replace the glow plug controller with something that isn't going to fail on you at random.

BEOD is the Body, Explosive Ordnance Disposal.
Accoding to my buddy that just retired from EOD, he figured that maybe 500 of them were built in total. There might be a few left in National Guard inventory, but the Army went to MRAPs for their EOD trucks so they all got disposed of.
 

CapePrep

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ITT Cannon numbers CA3106E32-1p if you want a 90Β° backshell CA3108E32-1P
Perfect post, exactly what I want. Just not the 90 degree connector! $3XX++!!!
The Mouser site says a minimum of 50 for purchase-does anyone know if it is possible to just buy one? It's saturday otherwise I would call them and will on Monday if no answers here.
 

Coug

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The amphenol brand connector I gave the part number to is available individually.
I don't know if it comes as a complete assembly or not, as the Amphenol brand you have to buy the components separately and assemble yourself (which is why I have so many part numbers listed in the first post in this thread)

Looking through the Mouser website, and the ITT Cannon datasheet, what it looks like you really need is going to be a longer part number, to include things like the wire support and

Datasheet. Check pages 11, 20, and



Explanation Series CA – Circular connectors with bayonet coupling
Shell style
3100 – Wall mounting receptacle
3101 – Cable connecting receptacle
3102 – Box mounting receptacle
3105 – Dummy receptacle for front and panel mounting
3106 – Plug, straight
3108 – Plug, 90Β°

TBF – Bulkhead receptacle

Class
E – environmental with resilient insulators and endbell with clamp and bushing
F – environmental with resilient insulator and endbell for flex tube
R – environmental with resilient insulator and shortened light-weight endbell without cable clamp

Shell size 10SL, 12S, 14S, 16S, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 28, 32 and 36

Contact arrangement See pages 13 to 26 (in this case it's "1")

Contact type
P – Pin
S – Socket
PS – one side pin, one side socket (only for TBF)

Insulator position Besides the normal position further insulator positions are possible for Cannon connectors (see page 13-26) to prevent mismating. Polarization is achieved by turning the pin contact insulator clockwise towards the shell, the socket insulator, however, in opposite clockwise direction. This information refers to the mating side of the contact insulator. For special insert alternations of standard inserts see page 24

Now, if you add some modifications, it WILL show up on the mouser website, for sale individually.

Modifications (only for CA......-B)
01 – metric crimp contacts
02 – adapter for heat shrink boots AWG crimp contacts
03 – adapter for heat shrink boots, metric crimp contacts
04 – rear mount, thread holes in flange, metric crimp contacts (CA3102 only)
05 – rear mount, through holes in flange, (CA3100, CA 3102, rear mounting CA 20, TBF)
06 – adaptor for heat shrink boots, solder pot contacts
08 – angular endbell, thread holes in flange (for CA3100 only)
09 – angular endbell, through holes in flange (for CA3100 only)
13 – shielded version, solder pot contacts
14 – shielded version, metric crimp contacts
15 – shielded version, AWG crimp contacts
32 – shielded version, reduced cable entry diameter
41 – grounding spring on barrel
109 – F80 contacts, rear mount, thread holes in flange (for CA3102 only)
111 – rear mount, thread holes in flange (CA3102 only), solder pot contacts
F80 – AWG crimp contacts
A176 – gold plated contact, see pages 59-60
A232 – Zinc cobalt black plating A240 – Zinc Nickel plating, blue grey plating
A241 – Tin Zinc matt grey plating, VG approved
F42 – less grommet and backshell
F0 – less contacts, contacts to be ordered separately, see page 61

All that is really to say, the numbers get a little confusing, but a general search of the part number brought up a list of them with different modifications, all available individually, but all appear to have a 20 day wait time to order.



 

Coug

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Coug

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Just to be clear though, for everything I linked in the above 2 posts
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT CONDITION THESE COME IN, WHETHER THEY HAVE PINS, STRAIN RELIEF, OR EVEN THE INSERT IN THEM.
 
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