CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008

[cucvrus]

Block heater is really working. It is a 1000 watt freeze plug style and has been plugged in since 9 pm...it's 6am for these pics...it was plugged in after driving it so it was, in theory, at least 195 degrees...so it dropped 100 degrees but is holding 93 degrees all over the engine. I'm using a 12-2 extension cord that is 75 feet long and is not warm at all. I'll try another test tonight and not plug it in till morning and see how long it takes to heat up...I'm not sure if it's worth having it plugged in all night or maybe just a few hours before driving??!! Will have to weigh that next.

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Back in the day I recall the GM diesel owner's manual supplement stating 8 hours minimum. However, I found this information on the internet so it must be true.

• Regardless of the wattage, about 75 minutes appears to be about the time the temperature rise starts leveling off, give or take 15 minutes.
• Anything beyond 2 hours is a waste of power.
• With the 1100w combination, 84% of the total potential warm-up occurs in 45 minutes, 93% in 60 minutes

I had a new 1984 Chevette diesel, and I kept it plugged in every winter day and night. I only unplugged it when I was driving it and I always started that engine even in -20 degree weather. That cold was not that often, but it did happen ion occasion. I was told that the hardest part on any engine is cold start. I ran that car 450k miles and it was still running when I scrapped it for rust. Shame was I sold the engine and a man ran an irrigator for many years after with it. Another cool thing I always remember was my diesels including the CUCV could defrost the windshield with the block heater plugged in and the HVAC set in the hot defrost position. Not completely but the wipers were never seized in ice. Good Luck. If nothing else works build a ire under it. Happy Holiday's.

 

[cucvrus]

I just find it hard to believe that an electric heating element stuck in the freeze out hole is going to warm a cast iron block filled with fluid in the short time that hey mention on the current online information. I tend to believe a through heating of the block and all the coolant would take the 8 hours. And 8 hours always worked for me on all my vehicles. I had Isuzu's and Kubota's diesel engines start with no starting aid in all temperatures. CUCV's were always good until you got in single digits. Good Batteries and glow plugs are key. You can't have a vehicle that loses prime, has weak batteries and bad glow plugs. Preplanning winter maintenance is key to a good running diesel in winter. Happy Holidays. I have a single cylinder diesel log splitter that pull starts in below 0 weather without starting aids or glow plugs. Strong pull and a decompression lever.

 

[87cr250r]

As long as the heat can convect up to the cylinder head, it only needs to get a few cylinders warm to get a start. My 6.2 would start fine at 80 degrees without glow plugs. You'll get a lot of smoke until the other cylinders start firing. This may not be the best for your engine but should be ok every once in a while.

Direct injection engines are much better at cold weather starting. I remember the 71 series Detroit listed no starting aids required until temps are below 40°F.

Of course I'm coastal California so all of my cold weather experience is vicarious.

 

[ssdvc]

It has been in the 20's here in the AM for the last several days, snow on the ground and I have not had an issue starting my 09. Was 15 degrees the other morning and the wind was blowing and the windchill was making it far worse. My 09 turned over with the first turn of the key (thank you Lord!!). Like CUCVRUS said, I think if these trucks are properly maintained they can start on their own (no supplemental heating) way down into the single digits.

 

[WWRD99]

It has been in the 20's here in the AM for the last several days, snow on the ground and I have not had an issue starting my 09. Was 15 degrees the other morning and the wind was blowing and the windchill was making it far worse. My 09 turned over with the first turn of the key (thank you Lord!!). Like CUCVRUS said, I think if these trucks are properly maintained they can start on their own (no supplemental heating) way down into the single digits.

I think you're right for sure. This blazer, I think, has a new engine in it and it's a 6.5. The reason he wanted the block heater was to help cold start wear...batteries, starter, alternator and glow plugs don't work hard on a warm engine. He's told me the glow plugs don't even turn on when it's been plugged in and has heat right away. We changed the oil when we did all this work and the oil still looks new after a few days and it still has the paint on the block with no rust. I am going to try and get info about this truck and see if i can get the history of it. Another note....block heater died after 6 days....so he'll be changing out for another Friday before the storm!!

 

[WWRD99]

Installed the pulsetech battery maintainer on his 1009 yesterday! They are pretty easy and hopefully do something...I can see the led flash so I guess it does. Installed another block heater today, in the rain, since the other stopped after 5 days...that 4 core radiator holds 4 gallons of antifreeze...guess it was easier since I didn't have to drill this time. Got his rt524 sitting in his bedroom looking for the mount inside the passenger rear seat so he can wire it up! They aren't that plentiful. Maybe one will pop up soon...I know he's ready to get it installed.

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[WWRD99]

So I've given up on these block heaters from zerostart temro and called Gm...both failed...so the parts guy takes the time to look up what gm used and found a discontinued number...996246...so a quick search found several NOS ones on Ebay...I figured I can't do any worse with a 20 year old part than one that lasted 5 days and one that never worked. I got one for each truck. Also on the parts search found a weight plate for his blazer and a dash mount for his radio speaker.

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[WWRD99]

So the madness continues as he now looks for parts we don't need...an engine that had low miles on it before it was parted out...was sad to see the blazer get scrapped but at least he got the engine out of it. The NOS block heater has been working great too.

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[WWRD99]

Got a few 2 drawer mosler safes the other day...400 lbs each! Gonna mount one in his blazer for tool storage and the other went in his room!! We'll be drilling and bolting it to the frame Sunday!! Got his rt524 on top...Still looking for a rear mount for it if anyone has one!!

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[WWRD99]

Today was replace the power steering pump day...new belts and return lines too. The return lines are aeroquipe blue...bled out fast and works great! That old one leaked pretty bad. Wasn't that tough to do but I wish I had a fresh resouvuior to replace it with...the old one is pretty beat up. I had belts already since the ones I replaced on the truck lasted about a month...I sanded down all the pulleys but it wasn't enough...second set has lasted since with no problems though. He also added some monitors from the 320 shelter to his room now too...waiting to see what else he'll add.

Question about the power steering pressure side...I can't find info on how much max pressure they need to be...I'd like to have my local hydro shop replace the flexible lines but need to know max pressure. I think I found 1400 to 1800 but nothing concrete. I'd prefer to use them so I get a quality hose.

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[WWRD99]

So today the ol blazer did a fail...well kinda...he was trying to grab his book bag out of the back with his right hand while trying to shut the engine off with his left...he had to show me because I couldn't see how to bend that way...anyhow instead of shutting it off he pushed forward and made the starter engage. I'm assuming for just a second then he shut it off pulling back on the key. So after that it wouldn't start...he tried it and no clicks just the gen lights...so a quick powerprobe found the 12 volts to the control side of the relay and 24 volts to the controlled side but the relay wouldn't engage...so it burned up somehow because popping in a new one worked.

So any idea why the relay would not engage the starter just from hitting the starter quick while running?? The old one was a cheapie china and we got some surplus stock ones since to replace them with.

For some reason the app isn't letting me post pics??!! Saying status code non 200...always something!!

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[87cr250r]

One thing you'll find working on these hybrid 12/24 volt trucks is that the relays with 12v control coils switching 24v loads are often designed with 12v only service in mind. The relays are short lived in 24v service due to the larger arc during break. Why the relay failed at exactly that moment? Maybe it was nearing the end of it's life and the higher voltage on the system with the alternators running was enough to push it over the edge.

This is assuming the contacts failed. You can check the coil side with an ohm meter.

 

[WWRD99]

One thing you'll find working on these hybrid 12/24 volt trucks is that the relays with 12v control coils switching 24v loads are often designed with 12v only service in mind. The relays are short lived in 24v service due to the larger arc during break. Why the relay failed at exactly that moment? Maybe it was nearing the end of it's life and the higher voltage on the system with the alternators running was enough to push it over the edge.

This is assuming the contacts failed. You can check the coil side with an ohm meter.

I didn't take it apart yet, the 12 volt side did get key start power and the responding side did not close so the 12 volt side failed which is crazy weird. The relay was barely a year old and only really used the last 4 months!! The higher voltage while running is only a volt or so and wouldn't think that would be enough to knock it out...but it is a china relay and who knows what's in it.

 

[WWRD99]

So today was a hot one for January got to 49 degrees. Kiddo went outside and found a good bit of diesel leaking out the back! We found the diesel heater steel line had cracked and with the fuel expansion it found its way out there! Pretty good spot too. Found it quick with a shot of compressor air. Luckily when we did the tank we left very long hoses on the tank sender so he just pulled it off and plugged it with a bolt! Next was the sway bar bushings which really helped the handling of the blazer! Always something!

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[WWRD99]

So he did the power steering lines and oil cooler lines today. He got a little nuts and broke the oil testing line twisting it. So did a fast double flare and it was fixed! Also dove into some old tools for the tilt steering bolts that worked loose too. It was good to get in there and fix a few other small things too.

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[WWRD99]

So it happened again!! Dragged one out of the weeds that had been sitting since 97. 2 tires were completely gone, but 2 still had air in them. It does not have a tailgate, so a raccoon family moved in and ate the rear seat! Front driveshaft is bent. Has a very nice rt524 radio mount and wiring still in it that he needs for his other 1009. The only real rust is under the rear seat, I'm guessing, because it was never raised with the radio mount in the way. The engine does not turn over at the moment so we'll dump fluid in the glow plug holes for days and see if it'll break free. We do have another j code engine out of another 1009 if need be. We also have an entire interior to replace the one the raccoons ate!! Now, it's time for a few body parts that need to be ordered!

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[WWRD99]

So he had a fun morning swapping out his lift pump. He did it all by himself laying across the top of the radiator. He got under for the fuel lines but fished the bolts in and out from up top. To be 17 again!! Took about an hour. Unfortunately, the new one didn't work at all, so I hooked up an electric one for now. Really, I may just leave that pump in since it is so easy to change out if it quits. The parts quality is about as bad as it can get when it comes to these pumps now. The part number on the one he took out goes to a Carter brand and they're around 30$ now everywhere. I'd like the old Holley style that can be clocked and rebuilt in place, but not sure if they work for the diesel. I got this lift pump thinking it was a higher quality only to see it's no different than fleabay box lot fodder. I ordered one from Hillbilly!! I'm not sure where he gets them from, but I hope a better quality than what's out there.

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[WWRD99]

So we got 3 new mechanical pumps today! I found them on eBay as well and ordered 2 more, which turned out to be from the same batch as others selling them for 8.50$ each. He got the time down to about 45 minutes. What I found with the napa pump that didn't work was there was no spring on the back of the arm as the Carter does. He turned the engine over for about 5 seconds and it started right up without a hiccup with no bleeding air. He was so happy he did the truck lift pump too! Truck runs with more power now and I don't have to give it all throttle to get it to start moving. So my advice with these pumps at this point in time would be search M60281 fuel pump and get a NOS pump and it'll work perfect. They are made in USA too. I got 6 air filters from 1989 from a surplus guy that the foam was falling off of. I blew them off and got these foam pre filters from napa and they fit perfect, not a bad deal for 9$!!

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[WWRD99]

Ok, so today we picked up 4 wheels, radiator, tailgate and starter for his project 1009-2...the guy that had it had no idea if the starter is 12 volt or 24. Is there any way to tell by looking at it internally, etc? There aren't any markings on it but where a sticker was. It was in the blazer when he got it. It looks like the gear drive style, though, I think. From what I remember you can raise volts but not amps and not burn up an electric motor??..but not sure on that. I'd like to use this one if possible. The tailgate is complete minus key for the window crank. The radiator looks very clean inside and there's no white stuff on the outside of the tubes so it should be good too.

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[WWRD99]

Haven't posted in a while and this time I actually have a problem that I am at a decision point to figure out. My alternator light 2 has been flashing very dim for about a year and could only see it at night. I never bothered with it since it charges fine. That all changed about a week ago when it would come on and stay on then gen one would go nuts and full field max output!! It would over charge for about a minute then gen one light would come on and stay on with the flickering gen 2 light in tow. It takes about 4 to 5 miles for it to do this. What I have found is gen 2 sensor wire voltage is very unstable. I first used my power probe and the positive light on it would flash so I broke out the DVOM and it showed it all. The volts are bouncing from 10 to 14.7 volts very fast but probably more since the little graph at the bottom is also going nuts up and down. According to the TM pic I found the gen 2 sensing wire goes through a DIODE up to the relay which is up under the dash. I am thinking the DIODE has some kind of fault but from what I know they either work or they don't which is why I question that thought. I have a few dash harness I'll pull one from and give it a try.

Any one have another idea why or what would make this voltage pulse so much?

I have tested the output of the alternators and they work fine not hooked up to the truck harness.