CUCV M1008 trailer hitch

[notsosanestan]

found it http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/12105-just-did-simple-receiver-hitch-my-m1009.html

 

[CycleJay]

RE: CUCV trailer hitch

Here's the pics of my hitch on my 1009.

The support bar for the Pintle hitch has been removed because the hitch won't fit on there with it. As I mentioned in another post, I'll probably cut the bar down and re-weld it in between the support arms of the hitch. Then fasten everything back down and it should be twice as strong.

I had to bend the safety chain loops up. A big sledge hammer took care of that.

On the passenger side, I had to remove a nut off of one of the bolts that holds D-ring bar to the frame. I couldn't get the nut onto the one of the bolts for the hitch with it there. The bolt is still in as you see in the pic and it can't come out because of a support bar for the bumper. I'll probably just weld the bolt in so it won't move around and it will add strength back to the D-ring.

I used existing holes in the frame, didn't have to do any drilling.

I've included a pic of the wiring harnass as well. It is on the driver's side.

I've also included some pics of the Cherry Bomb glasspack mufflers that I put on. Bought those at Autozone, much cheaper than the OE mufflers. I have them re-routed to exit out in front of the rear tires now.

If anyone needs a better pic or a different pic of my setup, just let me know.

Hello Midnight,

Your setup looks good, I would like to add a receiver hitch to my M1009,
so your photos might help when I am ready to do it myself.

But one question, how does your M1009 sound, now that you have a pair
of glass packs on it?

 

[M1008driver]

I went for more hitch than I will ever need. I've seen some messed up stuff being towed down the interstate and I don't want to be responsible for a mishap.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/70748-receiver-hitch-trailer-plug-brake-controller.html

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, you see messed up stuff on the interstate. The one reason to get a bolt on receiver is to drop the height, otherwise you must use a high drop stinger that is far less strong.

For my uses, I went with a self fabricated hitch for my 1031. It came with a non swivel pintle hook, sans reinforcement plates. I first made a simple flanged tube, matching the pintle hook bolting pattern. It worked for class II pulls, I needed more.

I used 3/8" A36 structural steel again, extending the bolting flange to the bottom of the bumper, then welding on another flat flange. This allowed two more bolts without drilling the bumper. Then a shear web connected the tube to this horizontal flange, on the end a buckle arrester was added. Overkill for sure.

The bumper of a 1031 is quite stout, thick flange and heavy box section plus the two diagonal braces. It is every bit as rigid as aftermarket receiver hitch cross tubes.

 

[skysix]

since the OP has a M1008 - try this link (M1031 with a standard M1008 box) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ch-for-M1028&p=1610303&viewfull=1#post1610303

 

[carleckenrode]

I tried the Harbor freight hitch. It was not heavy enough for my travel trailer. I then installed a class 3 hitch but had to remove the rear tie down shackles. Does anyone know how to install a class 3 hitch without removing the shackles ?
thanks Carl

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Carl, somebody has done it recently. I have the thread bookmarked at home. I'll try to remember to post it for you this evening. If I don't, PM me to bug me about it.

 

[cucvrus]

Check out post #24 above that is a mean honking hitch and it looks ready to tow anything that the CUCV can tow. With the use of all the factory reinforcements in place and no irreversible modifications to the original design. Very nicely done and well with in budget. I really like the reinforcement under the receiver tube. I think that would be stronger then any bolt on under bumper receiver class 3 or 4 receiver and half the work and expense. Very nicely done Keith_J. and it looks like it belongs there not a poorly fabricated add on.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Here's the post. He used a Reese Towpower 51016, and a few extra washers, and got it installed with no cutting.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ch-for-M1028&p=1610303&viewfull=1#post1610303

 

[carleckenrode]

Thanks everyone FOR the help. i think i will go with the Reese Tow Power 51016, posted by Keeth with his pictures i think i can duplicate it. Thanks All
Carl

 

[Keith_J]

Check out post #24 above that is a mean honking hitch and it looks ready to tow anything that the CUCV can tow. With the use of all the factory reinforcements in place and no irreversible modifications to the original design. Very nicely done and well with in budget. I really like the reinforcement under the receiver tube. I think that would be stronger then any bolt on under bumper receiver class 3 or 4 receiver and half the work and expense. Very nicely done Keith_J. and it looks like it belongs there not a poorly fabricated add on.

Half the work? Only if you have a cutting torch , I did the cutting on a chop saw, bevels for full pen welding in a bench grinder. And welded with air cooled GTAW. Meaning lots of torch cooling breaks. But those welds are strong yet ductile.

The bumper is just as strong as a class IV hitch, the only limiting factor is the stinger, most trailers require at least a 6" drop and that is the weakest link.

 

[Bummy]

I just burned a square tube on the bottom. Good and cheep. Was going to add a curt hitch till I studied all the cross members going to the swivel pintle and figured "aw what heck". Hopefully I get the pictures uploaded.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Cheap, yes. Good? No. Hope you never cause an accident with that. The lawyers will have you for lunch, and if anyone gets hurt, the local district attorney just might take a bite, too.

 

[rustystud]

I went with a class V hitch. I also removed that stupid rear brake limiting valve that sits above the rear axle. I wanted full brakes at anytime especially when towing.

 

[Bummy]

Wow go be a troll some where else like pirate Marcus, not all of us have the money to waste on a class 5 hitch. Besides I tow a skid steer on the stock pintle just fine, and also hauled two cars five hundred miles on it too. Your post is a sign of what's wrong with this country. Every one has lost their sack cause they are too afraid of being sued.

 

[Bummy]

Hey rusty what does the bumper on your m1031 have for supports? Mine is crossbraced right at the swivel pintle but then it has like 3/8 plate steel welded in it all along the inside was wondering what your m1031 has since they got extra goodies like the m1028 and I believe the bumper on a m1031 is the the most stout.

 

[cucvrus]

All the bumpers on the trucks are the same. M1008 and M1031 same rear bumper and front. Only difference M1031 pintle does not swivel. It has the same cross brackets but does not swivel. I don't know why that is. I removed the non-swiveling pintle and put a bolt on receiver tube on that spot. Buyer Products makes one. It will be held on by 6 bolts when you are done installing it properly. You will not want to haul with the weight on back like you have your hitch. I tried it once 20 years ago and hit a bump with the wood trailer and it bent that area down in the center. Not good. Do as you wish but go the extra mile and do it right. A frame mounted hitch is that best way to go. But my suggestion (Buyers Products)worked well on my M1031 for years and I hauled heavy with it.

 

[Bummy]

I know it's just cash is tight, and all I need it for is to pull maybe a 1,700 lb boat at the most combination with trailer. Other wise all the heavy loads get tugged on the pintle, my dad owns a nice pulling 6,000 lb car trailer that has the pintle ring set at the right hight for both of our trucks.
.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Your post is a sign of what's wrong with this country. .

You'd better look in the mirror on that one. Hope you don't ever hurt someone with that ignorant crap you put together.

 

[Warthog]

Closed. Some people just don't learn.