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I was happy that it had all LED lamps on it. 
I will be stripping all the brackets and putting it on a weight reduction diet rea; quickly. 
I think I can easily reduce the weigh by several hundred pounds. The HMMWV tires and wheels are very heavy. I had them off and hauled the trailer in my utility trailer as I have no title or plate for this trailer yet. It was about 17* and I went to work on the project. No sweat. Thank you for looking. Be Safe.
I was surprised to see what the generator trailer cost the government. Like I mentioned in my first post. I don't think the safety hooks were ever used. This trailer has zero or low miles on it. 
I stripped all the brackets and mounts off the frame. I don't need any of that as extra weight. this trailer is well built but the DRMO sure did a number on the corners, rear leg, master cylinder and cap. The rear support leg. 
I can heat that and straighten it. The wiring harness is severed up on the right side. Looks easy but all the wires are black in the harness. I will have to break out the wire probe. I only need a stop tail turn to work. I am doing away with the large plug and putting a 7 round in place. I easily eliminated 200 + lbs.
The plastic cap is broken, and the rain did get into the master cylinder. The DOT 5 fluid was still in the plugger area. I heated the reservoir and used my shop vacuum to suck the fluid out. The fluid at the output line was clean. I removed the master cylinder and need to know where the one tin clip goes. It was just laying inside the breakaway cover. 
This clip. 
Anybody know if a TM is online for this brake system? Thank you for looking. Take Care. Thank you for any assistance.Awesome trailer, great find, that trailer had your name written all over it just waiting for you to pick it up. Glad it found it's way home.
under the boot at the push rod was water. 
After I disassembled it partially, I was able to clean the inside reservoir out and run some Dot 5 thru the system. I vacuumed it out again and cleaned it with wax and grease remover. 
I could get it better, but I think in comparison it looks great. I noticed the push bar was bent and I am assuming that happened when the trailer was dropped nose first on the lunette eye. 
I removed that cross bar and pressed it back straight. That slight bend would make a difference when the surge brake is compressed. 
I decided it was time to repair the reservoir cap until I find a new one or a good used replacement. 
Like I mentioned above the JB Weld worked on several things in the past. What do I have to lose? I cut the crack with a V and put the adhesive in the crack and applied the cap to the reservoir. I used a special metal tag wire tie and clamped it tight and screwed it on and off a few times. I thought I best not let it dry and set up while on the reservoir. My Luck would be I wouldn't get it off without breaking it again. 
Now it is time to set back and let it snow here in Pennsylvania. I went out to the trailer chassis and got some other things looked at and need to come up with a plan. More in the next post. Anybody know where I can buy some parts for these trailer chassis. I also hauled in several loads of wood in anticipation of the big snowstorm coming to Pennsylvania today. 
Go Team Honda.
I am not sure what this is for, but I am sure I will discover what it is, or someone will tell me. 
The severed wires were impressive. 
Someone had forks stabbing into everything on the trailer. 
I need a few of the plastic light holders. Does anyone know where I can purchase the replacements? 
Also the chassis were stacked 3, 4, and 5 high on frozen ground and banded tight with ratchet straps. The wheel fork appears to be repairable, but I may entertain purchasing a replacement. 
Does anyone have any parts trailers? Fixing the damaged sheet metal, I can handle that, but I would like new light cups or whatever they are called. Any prospects? Take Care. And Be Safe. I am setting out the winter weather and healing a knee injury. Old man getting tired of plowing these last few years.
I tried a 1987 16"Ford F350 wheel I had. It fits but is not hub centric. 
I have been on a few wrecker calls with wheels that are not hub centric. I have some standard CUCV steel wheels. I had this one out for a classified ad and I sanded everything at the buyers request to make sure it was the correct wheel. After it was verified an OEM CUCV wheel $50. was too much for it. So back in storage. It fits perfect. 
I read on the trailer forum here that CUCV wheels will NOT fit the M1102 trailers. Perfect fit and hub centric. I picked up a spare GM 16" wheel at a yard sale a few years back and it fit also. 
Now I will get these sandblasted and primed and I have wheels for the trailer. I want to find a spare now. I ask this question before. What is this piece that is bolted to the main draw bar behind the A frame of the trailer chassis? 
I drilled the rivets out of the trailer generator nomenclature, so I had 1 weigh limit documented on the trailer. This one on the fender listed Max GVWR as 4285 LBS. 
The plate on the trailer drawbar has 4200. 4200 is good for me. I also mutilated the main trailer plug. I pondered for an hour to get it apart as a reusable piece. Then the U knife came out and it was still tough getting into the inner workings. The cable cutter made quick work of the cable and I recycled all the parts anyway.
I also opened up the cable sheathing where the fork cut the main harness. 
I only need 4 wires for my application. The rest I will just seal in the harness. I was really happy to see the trailer had all LED lights on it. The rear LED tan taillamps were a bonus. 
I never seen the tan LED lamps before. Sweet. Take Care and Be Safe. I need to get these wires repaired next. Like I mentioned only 4 wires are needed. That should be easy. I hope Saturday. This kind of work in the cold is easy and I have been convalescing a knee injury and a sickness. This is the tuning up process.
A rectangular steel piece with a round fish mouthed pipe bolted to the frame with a 3/8" bolt and a long thing spacer to span the fish mouth. I cannot figure that one out. 
Maybe it clamped down a jack or some kind of accessory?
Maybe. Maybe I just scrap it and forget it. I see no use for it. But I did think maybe it is to place the jack wheel on the front. Is that the winning answer. The TM says nothing about it. Have a Great Day.
I think that makes the most sense!
I used the TM to narrow done the wiring codes and eliminate all but the 4 wires. I found several grounds and that was a bit confusing at first, but it all worked out. I am in need pf 1 park lamp base and one LED amber park lamp.
Everything works hooked up to my Trail Boss so all is well. I really like the trailer lamp test that comes on the new trucks. Severed wires I used the correct color-coded wire to do the splice. I could not get enough slack from the wiring to not have a splice. 
I used my new Milwaukee cordless M18 heat gun to shrink the butt connections. New 7 round in place. I could have bought the $60. pigtail but I like cutting up and utilizing what I have besides it was $7.00. I bought an LED amber lamp, but it had round bullet plugs and would not screw into the broken socket. So, I am in search of a few parts again. The TruckLite model 30 Truck-Lite 07183 Military LED Light Yellow Marker Lamp w/Green Bracket (autoandtrucklighting.com) I also dug around and found another 8 lug Chevrolet truck wheel. Now I have 3 as planned. The tire is an OEM CUCV tire. Firestone Steeltex LT235/85R16 it has the fuel fighter logo molded into it. It was a good tire but looks like at one time the side wall blew out in storage. Ever handle a tire that rubs off the black like it was on fire. This one will do that. 
Have a Great Day and Be Safe. Time for R & R. Anybody have any tips on bleeding the trailer brakes? I will learn myself as usual if not. Life is a highway I want to ride it all day long. Always enjoyed learning things as I go.
