Dan's M1081 Pick-up and Build

[DanM7890]

Just a word of caution about the product. The "skirt"(there's 4 per u-joint) on the u-joint gets bent in shipping so before you install on your driveshaft take a small flathead and bend it back out so when it seats there's no obstruction.

 

[TNriverjet]

Got the U-joints replaced. Didn't take long at all. I ordered all four off the internet for $140 shipped which isn't a bad deal. The shipping window on the net isn't right, I got them in two days. I'll get some pictures up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028OQ8QG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



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Are the little tabs in photo #3 meant to be pried up beside the tightened bolt head to "lock" it? It seems to me to be the only purpose for that thin piece of stamped metal that goes under the bolts. That way they won't back out. I just love the double and triple redundancy that is in military engineering. Civy applications don't even have a bolted down cap. Remember the "Jesus" clips? Once they slipped off your pliers, you were praying to find them!

 

[DanM7890]

I was under the assumption it puts pressure on the bolt because when I received them they were angled slightly and than the piece from bolt hole to bolt hole was lightly angled as well and contoured going over the center hump. Now that you are saying this I may have to dig further, because that makes sense as well. At first I wasn't going to use them because the original ones never had them.

 

[NDT]

I was under the assumption it puts pressure on the bolt because when I received them they were angled slightly and than the piece from bolt hole to bolt hole was lightly angled as well and contoured going over the center hump. Now that you are saying this I may have to dig further, because that makes sense as well. At first I wasn't going to use them because the original ones never had them.

The thin metal pieces under the bolts are called lock plates and indeed are intended to be bent up to prevent the bolts from backing out. You bend up the little ears to match the flats of the bolts.

 

[1951M1078]

What no safety wire ? LOL Cheep bastards.

Its probably the wire twisty tool. To hard for young kid's to use ? LOL

 

[Bobcat701]

Great Job, thanks for the info. I do have some extra troop seats and cargo poles.

 

[DanM7890]

Had to put new tires on my f150 today and that hurt the wallet. I'm needing to get a working wtec II controller and brains and I just can't afford it right now so I'll have to wait. The one in the truck is done. I took it apart and there's fine white dust all over the boards like water got in and dripped down and pooled in the corner of the box.

 

[NDT]

Had to put new tires on my f150 today and that hurt the wallet. I'm needing to get a working wtec II controller and brains and I just can't afford it right now so I'll have to wait. The one in the truck is done. I took it apart and there's fine white dust all over the boards like water got in and dripped down and pooled in the corner of the box.

Try sending it to transmissioninstruments.com. If anyone can fix the controller, he can.

 

[Oxyacetylene]

Had to put new tires on my f150 today and that hurt the wallet. I'm needing to get a working wtec II controller and brains and I just can't afford it right now so I'll have to wait. The one in the truck is done. I took it apart and there's fine white dust all over the boards like water got in and dripped down and pooled in the corner of the box.

It might be a long shot, but try cleaning up the circuit board(s) and see what happens. I would try maybe water and a toothbrush, let it dry and then clean it with DeoxIT D5. You can get a spray can on Amazon at a good price. I have been using it to clean various electrical contacts. If nothing else maybe you clean it up and can spot a bad component. Unless the contamination actually caused a component failure then you might just get lucky.

 

[mkcoen]

Try sending it to transmissioninstruments.com. If anyone can fix the controller, he can.

I second NDTs suggestion. He told me it would be about $400 to refurb mine and if he couldn't do it the only charge would be for shipping it back. Real nice guy to deal with so worth a shot.

 

[DanM7890]

Had a chance to bring it to work to take it back apart and took some pictures. Everything looks good except the fine grit and residue on the case.

 

[mkcoen]

Is that corrosion residue from water getting in and sitting on the aluminum?

 

[DanM7890]

Yes you can see where it came in and dripped down the case

 

[DanM7890]

Reached out to Trans Instruments in Texas and he said with water having been in the case it can be tricky but he said $495 to repair it if it can be repaired plus shipping/insurance.

 

[mkcoen]

Reached out to Trans Instruments in Texas and he said with water having been in the case it can be tricky but he said $495 to repair it if it can be repaired plus shipping/insurance.

I paid $600 for a used one and happy to do so given their availability. So if he can repair it for $500 (and won't charge you if it can't be repaired) then I think that's a good deal. I know it hurts shelling out half a grand for something that's so small but, for me, it was worth it to get a running truck afterward.

 

[NDT]

That undoubtably is your transmission problem. Fix that and ride.

 

[Suprman]

I still have a set here. Just the keypad brings 4-600 on the bay

 

[DanM7890]

I still have a set here. Just the keypad brings 4-600 on the bay

Ill see if they can fix it. if not it'll be a little bit before I can shell out more than the repair cost.

 

[DanM7890]

Texas Instruments should see the package Wednesday so hopefully we'll have an answer at the end of the week.

 

[mkcoen]

Texas Instruments should see the package Wednesday so hopefully we'll have an answer at the end of the week.

When you talk to him next could you ask if he buys cores and what he gives for one (keypad and ECU)?