Dan's M1081 Pick-up and Build

[FloridaAKM]

I have access to the original manufacturers cleaner of the circuit board, HMDS, but getting to you would pose a big problem. Even after cleaning it, it wouldn't guarantee the board would be functional! Just a thought!

 

[DanM7890]

I called and confirmed they have received it and will take a look. Should hear something by Friday. When I hear back I'll ask if they buy cores.

 

[DanM7890]

Just got an email, and it's good news and bad news. Good news is, he tested it all yesterday and it operates fine. Bad news is somehow during my DVOM testing I misdiagnosed this part. Back to following the TM again and this time I'm going to take my time so I don't miss anything.

 

[Suprman]

The 2 rear connectors have a habit of slipping back a bit and not making good contact. The unit is only grounded by being bolted into the dash panel which is grounded by being bolted to the dash which probably isnt grounded as good as it should be to begin with. I run a ground wire from the ecm housing to a better ground spot under the dash. Figured this out one day I had a truck that wouldnt shift right and it gave a low voltage error code. So I put a multimeter on the housing and then to a good ground and had a 3 volt potential. New ground and no more problems.
Will

 

[DanM7890]

This could solve the issue, Unit is NOT bolted to anything and is just sitting there with the dash plate over it, and that wasn't bolted down either.

 

[DanM7890]

Well I'm back in the cab with the unit and I don't see how it's supposed to bolt it. Does the dash bolt down first, then you hook up the two rear connectors and the keypad just sits there. Maybe I'm missing a bracket to bolt the keypad to the dash.

 

[NDT]

With the dash hinged up at the bottom, slide the ecu down into the dash hole until it bottoms. Then, there is a bracket attached to the bottom of the dash, that has holes for you to bolt the ecu against.

 

[DanM7890]

Here's what I'm working with. When the dash in laying flat and I put the controller into the slot I don't find any holes lining up.

 

[NDT]

Looks like the bracket is missing. 1-800-SUPRMAN

 

[FloridaAKM]

Mine looks like some soldier tired to remove it with a crowbar & bent the dash. Nothing that a little metal work with a hammer can't fix, but the entire dash plate must be removed along with all the instruments. 1-800-SUPRMAN is your next direction to fix that problem!

By the way, mine still works, but needs more of the instruments bolted down as they are still loose from the last army mechanics investigation......Bolts on the floor beat bolts out the door as you can reattach everything that way!

 

[DanM7890]

So the truck is setup for WTEC 2 but the relay and harness is missing. See K26 in picture. It's the wtec2 neut start relay.

 

[Suprman]

Wtec 2 neutral start relay is in the vim module

 

[DanM7890]

Wired a ground for the trans controller. Tested all the relays on a bench. Then checked voltage coming to the relay board and I'm not getting 24v, but I have 12v.

 

[Suprman]

On the left side of the panel, the 3 posts, no 24volt?

 

[DanM7890]

No 24v. I tested the 12 and that reads fine.

 

[Suprman]

There are 2 24 volt leads at the battery box. One to the starter and one goes to the polarity protective box and then in thru the cab to the panel. It's easy to miss connecting one if the truck came without batts. The 12 volt into the cab goes thru the polarity box too. I would start at the batts and work my way to the polarity box with a multimeter. Trans controller is 24 volt. The polarity box is known to go bad and you can bypass it but you then loose that protection.

 

[Coffey1]

You have 97 days to get that truck running.
Get er done.

 

[DanM7890]

You have 97 days to get that truck running.
Get er done.

I always have the M998 haha

 

[DanM7890]

Looks like the issue is going to be fixed.

Problem One: K2 relay chattered when master switch flipped. Voltage dropped from 12.41 to just under 6v with the switch on.
Solution: Verify your batteries. I dropped mine off at O'reilly's and they charged and tested them. He said they were good but apparently they're not. I put the M998 new batteries in and the problem was fixed.

Problem Two: WTEC II push button keypad doesn't light up.
Solution: I removed the bolts on the connectors on the VIM and pulled them off. There was a couple pins that were bent over and a couple were touching each other. I took the VIM to work to fix the bent pins and I will update if this fixes the issue after work.

 

[DanM7890]

Problem #2 solved.