Death of a Multifuel

[General Mcgregor]

Will it rotate?

Yes turned it over twice

 

[RAYZER]

If it were mine, I would pull the pan and have a look, and look at the cylinder walls through the injector holes with a scope,
Wouldn't want rust on the cylinder walls!

 

[fuzzytoaster]

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nah, I have seen RUNNING motors with more rust on the rockers than that! What happens is, the motor gets warm and the moisture moves to the top(the valve covers). It has no where to go so it condenses and drops on the pressed steel rocker arms. Rust follows!

Take the valve cover off, unbolt the rails holding the rocker arms, remove the snap-ring(careful there is spring tension there!) Take them apart piece by peice, and clean them up with a wire brush or scraper. Wash them off, lightly oil. and put them back into service. If you keep them in order, you should not need to adjust the valves, but since this is a new to you motor, I WOULD. Also while the parts are apart, check the oil passages, some are usually plugged.

PM if you have questions and want to speak to me.

 

[gimpyrobb]

OH! If there is a pressure plate and clutch, I would pull it and make sure the clutch isn't stuck to the flywheel. You will need something to line up the clutch afterward though.

 

[Vintage iron]

Minor rust is not an issue as long as things are lubricated. Check the bores out with a scope. Then dump fresh 10w30 in all the cylinders. Take the valve covers off and clean as much as possible. I don't think disassemble is needed! Unless it is real rusty, you will be opening a can of worms! With oil in the cylinders and the top end clean turn it over by hand a few times. Take the pressure plate off to be resurfaced and grease the throw out bearing. Drain the oil pan and replace with good oil. I would change the oil filter after the engine has run for 10 hours and after 100 miles drop the oil and replace the filters. Make sure to run ATF through the engine as fuel for start up. This will make sure the fuel system in lubricated. Good luck and let me know if I can help!

BTW nice find

 

[JasonS]

Nah, I have seen RUNNING motors with more rust on the rockers than that! What happens is, the motor gets warm and the moisture moves to the top(the valve covers). It has no where to go so it condenses and drops on the pressed steel rocker arms. Rust follows!

My OA331 was like this. The previous owner capped off the valve cover vent causing blooms of rust on the rocker arms. I just cleaned off what I could with a wire bruch and shop vac.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Minor rust is not an issue as long as things are lubricated. Check the bores out with a scope. Then dump fresh 10w30 in all the cylinders. Take the valve covers off and clean as much as possible. I don't think disassemble is needed! Unless it is real rusty, you will be opening a can of worms! With oil in the cylinders and the top end clean turn it over by hand a few times. Take the pressure plate off to be resurfaced and grease the throw out bearing. Drain the oil pan and replace with good oil. I would change the oil filter after the engine has run for 10 hours and after 100 miles drop the oil and replace the filters. Make sure to run ATF through the engine as fuel for start up. This will make sure the fuel system in lubricated. Good luck and let me know if I can help!

BTW nice find

If you clean them with them in the motor, all that rust will fall into the oil galleys(talk about a can of worms). Take it from someone that has messed with these motors, remove from engine. While it is off, you can inspect the surfaces that contact the valves and pushrods.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Well I finnaly got the motivation to start on the rockers.
Today I pulled the valve covers and took a beter look at them, there was much less rust on the rear set than on the forward. I assume it has something to do with the oil cap leaking or collecting moisture. The rockers beneath the cap were the worst, the rest had minor flash rust that came right off with a rag and vacuum nozzle. The more significant rust required a bit of cleaning with a nylon brush but the majoraty of it came off pretty easy. I didn't want to use anything too abrasive to avoid larger chunks falling where they shouldn't. There is a bit of buildup in the valley between the rockers under the cap, (see pic) nothing loose or flaking but not 100% sure if it will be ok or not. I would rather not pull the rockers unless I REALLY need to, so gimp judging by these pics would you still pull and clean them?
There is still plenty of lubrication all along the valvetrain and even the surfaces of the rockers seem slick.

Also, the valve cover gaskets look pretty good and have never been exposed to heat. They are the rubber ones, should I get a new pair or do these look reasonable? Not being cheap (I don't mind buying them) just don't want to order them if I can use these.

Sorry for the slow progress but since the swap will be done outdoors I am awaiting warmer weather.

Thanks in advance guys!

-GM

 

[gimpyrobb]

Pic2 I wouldn't do anything to. Pic5 I would pull and clean. You will see how much easier it is to clean with them off.

 

[General Mcgregor]

I should clarify Pic 5 is before, pic 9 is after cleaning. Just to avoid confusion.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Looks pretty good, at LEAST spray or bush some oil on everything before you close it up and try to start it.

 

[Carlo]

There is a guy in Norfolk Nebraska that parted out lots of deuces for axles. At least 50 and probably more. Our operation is primarily five tons. We do have the 1957 Utica Bend with an excellent sounding and running LDT D turbo that is too rusty for me to tackle. We also have three LDTs in cans and 1 LDS in a can. I have no idea bout their condition though as I have not opened the cans. They might have 4 or 6 BTs in them for all I know. I do know we have one that appears completely redone in a can. I sold the starter off of it to a member in need. If we can help in any way, let me know. Glen

What is the big difference on the white C motor and the continetal? My M35 is a 1966 with the white motor.

 

[Carlo]

Sorry to hear about your baby. A&H Recon. Shop is here to help. Like I said on the phone, this would be a good time for a DT466 upgrade. We can find you a multifeul ldt or lds too!

Is the IH DT466 a bolt on to the stock trans and etc?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Carlo, the multifuels are made by different manufacturers, but made to the same (basic) specs. There is no difference.

 

[Vintage iron]

Nice job cleaning up the top end Steve. Those Gaskets still look good. Make sure you cover all of those internal parts in oil before closing everything up. Are you still looking for a turbo?

Yes, the DT466 is a very similar motor, nothing is easy but it can be done. There are more options on boosting power with the DT466.

 

[o1951]

What I do with a motor not run in long time. Remove oil pressure sender or line to oil pressure gauge. Screw in clean 1/8 NPT nipple with piece of clean rubber hose & hose clamp. Put end of a pump oiler into hose and snug clamp. Pump oiler is clean and filled with clean oil .. ( I have one I use just for this) Pump until I see oil at valve train. You will feel pump get hard to push when pressure builds up. I check all the rockers for oil, and investigate if any remain dry. Then I oil up the cams and tappets . If you have a small electric pump, save wear on your thumb. Now the engine is pre lubed, oil in all the bearings, ect. Prevents dry start and chance of galling or scoring a bearing or cam lobe.

 

[Jeff001]

Broke the rod out of my Multifuel over 23 years ago. We rebuilt / overhauled the engine. Purchased a block out of a scrap yard, took the best parts form both, line bored and new oversized bearings. 3 New jugs and 3 old jugs that we put new rings in. LDS-465-A1 still running today. After assembly we did the pre-lubrication as described in the ORD manual and did a standard break-in. I have heard of this happening on many multifuels. Does anybody know if there is a fix for this apparent design flaw? I also know it happens on the M-900 series with the Cummings and the automatic. Saw one for myself, rod right out the side. Any ideas?

 

[General Mcgregor]

Nice job cleaning up the top end Steve. Those Gaskets still look good. Make sure you cover all of those internal parts in oil before closing everything up. Are you still looking for a turbo?

Hey Matt, no I'm going to use the turbo off of my old engine. I still need to find an exhaust manifold gasket for it.

 

[Jeff001]

I purchased mine from Memphis equipment company. They ship nationwide. Call: (901) 774-0600, http://memphisequipment.com/ I do not know if they have the best prices or not but they do have good quality parts.