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Diablo Build Update (pics)

devilman96

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Mids and highs are Blaupunkt 540's and 650's component sets which are getting crammed everywhere lol...

Subs (or butt massagers as Kenny calls them) are the pictured 10" P2's, one under each seat...

Amps Mid / High is a 4 channel Kole Audio... I am eyeing a Fosgate 800.2 for a replacement on the other that went poof for the subs...

Head unit is a Sony, I also have the digital controller with XM satellite and splitter for the disc/Mp3 changer...

The crossover was my problem the other night, one of the sub channels on the AC side was shorting to ground... I am eyeing a MB or Boss... Gotta get one of the two here quick...
 

Recovry4x4

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Mike, the property my house is built on cost less that your audio system ( or radio as I call it). Wow, thats wild stuff.
 

deloit

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Go with the MB's. It's all great stuff and Boss would be going the "cheap" route. Using an 800.2 so going to feel like a vibrator with brand new batteries :D
 

devilman96

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My father whom just retired (and is probably already looking for another job to get out of the house) checks the site every few days to see how things are progressing and is planning on going to Aberdeen with me in May next year... Old man... ya better get some hearing protection cause your gonna need it!!!

I broke down and spent the cash in the Fosgate 800.2 amp and the MB crossover so it ought to be pretty painful in the cab!!! :shock:

I took a few pics of the underside of the dash... Try not to laugh to hard...

I will be upside down cleaning up, wire tying, looming, tightening, clamping, cussing, screaming, and bitching for most of the week... I once said you could play tennis underneath a M35 dash... Right now its seeming more like stretching a mosquitoes arse over a wagon wheel at best... But the up side is it all fits. I had to reroute my air lines and a few other things but so far it is coming along better than it "looks"... and yes... It is all fused... all protected... relayed... drawn out... and getting cataloged as I am going along... The last thing I will do is load test each fused circuit and replace them with circuit breakers... and for redundancies sake... if it all fails the trucks original wiring harness is 98% unaltered so starting, charging and basic lighting will still work as it should.

I am looking to buy a inverter to install on the 12 volt system... Its another one of those "things" that have been on the list from the beginning. For those whom have them... What sizes do you have? What will they run? Brand names? Etc? I am not looking to power a house but would like to wire it up as a fixture and run a 110V weather proof outlet to the battery box so its a simple flick of the switch type thing to run a drill, maybe a skill saw??? Mostly camping or back woods repair work where you have no power.... and for the peanut gallery... the kitchen sink goes on the side of the bed!!!
 

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deloit

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Several years ago, I got from West Marine that had a remote on/off switch. The inverter was hidden along with the other amps. As a side note, there are two different types of inverters. One that produces a pure sine wave, a true AC signal. The other one, cheaper of course, the top and bottom of the sine wave is clipped off, sort of a square wave. The price depends on the sine/square wave thing and quality of the diodes and caps inside. Also, remember the startup/continious rating go one size larger than what you need. Outlets, some will have 2 or 3. You can always use 6-way splitter. If you used power dist. blocks for your amps you can connect power there rather than going directly to the battery. Hope this helps.
 

gimpyrobb

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Dman, it sounds like your asking us what we have available to us in 12v to 120v systems, is that correct? I have access to some, let me know what wattage your looking for.
 

devilman96

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Im thinking the biggest power draw I would use might be a skill saw or something to the effect which is about 2600 starting 1800 operating so I am thinking about 3500W... I first wanted 7500 but Ken and I talked about it one eve and the power consumption out does the performance for what I really need... No since in killing a battery in 30 mins to run a electric toothbrush I guess...
 

devilman96

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As usual it prolly doesn't look like much but things are moving and starting to light up, blink, go up and down, etc, etc...

Pics... So easy to take and so simple looking... but hours and hours of work and thought!!!

First (hopefully in order)... The glove box light... sounds like an easy mod until you try and do it!!! I used a project box from RS and milled out a opening in the lid, glued in a plastic lens and then installed it with the lid inside and the box outside. The bulb is a LED so long life will be nice seeing how you have to pull the dash to change it!!

I got the door switched wired in... I was getting sick of jumping wires to open the doors and using a drill battery to lower and raise windows! I may change out these window switches before installing them in the arm rest. I was happy about them until I discovered they glow green and I have worked my arse off to keep all of the interior lighting blue in order to match the new style headlight switches back light....

The dash is "IN"... if I have to remove it again I will prolly sell the truck!

The idiot lights as Kenny named them lol... Its hard to get them to all light up at once right now but there are high beam, turn, 4x4, forwarding and brake which I have on both the parking brake and the fluid level...

Details details details but I am liking it so far! THe bad new is I got my tracking info on my amp and cross over... It will be next thursday before I see them... *damn*... I really want these seats in!!!
 

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bottleworks

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Look'in great! It that panel with the turn signal arrows custom made? How/where/cost? I didn't know you were getting rid of the pull stop cable. Is the solenoid always energized with the engine running? Kill the power and it pulls back in? Or is power required to move to each position? Adding a remote start? Might as well! Beep-Beep!
 

devilman96

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Light panel is a CAT part... the board and cover runs about 100$ with shipping... Pricey but it was worth it to me to get the "look" right.

The solenoids are very reliable and is similar to what most modern cars and trucks have with the exception of having 2 powered positions... A high draw (10 amp, lots of magnetic pull) start position and a low (2 amp) "hold" position for run... Really simple 3 wire deal... one to the start circuit, one to the run circuit and a ground... The off position is spring return... Though I don't think it would ever be an issue if all hell breaks loose and everything fails there is always the option of string, wire, etc to limp back home with!

I've mulled over the remote start idea... The remote control I am using for the doors has the extra channels for doing it but without a neutral switch (or an easy place to install one in the transmission) I don't feel comfortable with it. I can just see leaving it in gear and bumping the engine over to watch the truck chug into a start and squash someone's car, or with my luck a building!!!

... most pressing... after what I have been through in the past several weeks... I DO NOT FEEL LIKE WIRING ANOTHER THING FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE!!!!!!!

... next breath... my tard'ed arse just bought a set of electric gun locks off of ebay for the cab... *sigh*... im an addict!!!
 

devilman96

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No time to mess with the filters yet... I know what I am going to do and more or less how I am going to do it... Getting to it is another thing and with so many details and so much going on I don't need to start another little "project" on the truck till some of these others are wrapped up... My biggest goal right now is getting my seats in and everything "functional" so I can get on the road... get my bed outta Kenny's yard (thank you!!!) and take more than just a day or two off... Don't forget, since I started this project 5 months ago, with this truck and my job I have taken less than maybe 5 weekends off!!!!

The results are great but I am tired, worn out and in need of smelling some diesel burning through the exhaust rather than smelling raw fuel embedded in my hands and skin!
 

devilman96

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*sigh*.... Ya know Mikey... I really wanted to leave that story out!!! lol

In getting things operational I have been testing all of the workings of my mods... One of which was the fuel transfer pump and venting... A question I had lurking in my head was a "what if I left it on by accident"... I answered that the other night... and it was not a lot of fun.

So the monkey flipped the switch... and left it on (intentionally)... and I went off looking at something or another on eBay and blah blah blah to return about 30 minutes later (I had really forgotten about it by that point). When I walked back out in the shop I was greeted by a lake of diesel on the floor which was pouring from every available orifice on the truck... The crank case, air system, air pack... all full... oh joy... so THIS is what happens when the monkey forgets! I have yet to fully understand how it was able to get into so many places... I think the vent in the breather tube and the duck bill nipple I installed on it might be a culprit... (Some times maybe one should leave well enough alone?) Another mental note... MOVE THE AIR PACK VENT TUBE THAT YOU WERE SUPPOSED TO MOVE MONTHS AGO PER THE PS MAGAZINE ARTICLE!!!

Anyways... After shutting the pump off and evaluating the situation, where things were pouring from, etc I went over to pop the cap on the main tank trying to grasp how and why the excess fuel didn't return back to the other tank. (Technically it should have just recycled back to the other tank via the vent tube, or so I thought)... Because of the fuel in the vent lines the tank was not depressurizing as fast as one would have thought... So when I popped the cap I got a fuel gusher high enough to hit the 16 foot ceiling... which covered me head to toe... the cab top to bottom... the remainder of the dry spots on the floor... and of course the passenger door was open so everything on that side of the interior got it too... Mental note to self... TURN CAP SLOWLY NEXT TIME YA IDIOT!

I thought I was going to rip the new carpet right back out but it appears to have cleaned up ok... Most of it hit the inside of the door and window, dash and windshield which was easily washed out, the floor was so covered in tools, wire, rags, etc that the bulk ended up scattered all of that stuff rather than the carpet and there was no real damage to anything other than maybe a loss of time, oil, fuel, 50+ lbs of oil dry, clothes, boots and my pride while taking a cold shower butt naked outside under a emergency wash down shower in full view of the Marriot Hotel next door...

The amazing part... That had to be one of the rarest occasions ever of me not having a cigarette hanging out of my mouth... Gas and diesel don't bother me as being "flammable" but when its atomized under pressure its a little different and likes to go *poof*...

Anyways... What I sorted out is that the resistance on the vent tube going to the crank case vent is less than that of the tank vents side to side... So if the main tank over flows it will not return to the secondary tank but will go up the vent tube to the engine... I have a float switch from a MEP003 that I could install in the main tank but it will proably take a second showering in the buff to get me to do it as I am stubborn enough to think I will always remember to turn the switch off... Some other things learned... A relatively small electric fuel pump will move a hell of a lot of diesel and at a much faster rate than you would think! 12PSI of pressure is not a lot... unless it is being applied to 50 + gallon tank of fuel. TURN CAP SLOWLY (as the cap suggests) and if ya ever do something stupid MV related or not... Don't tell Mikey! LOL
 

Recovry4x4

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Maybe you should hook that transfer pump up to the low air buzzer! Is the truck still dripping, I can bring some catch pans if I can keep the fuel! LOL
 
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