NJ_Toolnut
New member
- 83
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Bloomsbury, NJ
Hi Everyone,
My name is Stan and I’m an addicted tool nut and home shop machinist. I live in western NJ, near the Delaware River about 30 minutes east of Allentown, PA.
This has been a year of extreme weather events in our area. Irene occurred in August (three days without electricity) and then we experienced the freak snowstorm at the end of October (eight days without electricity). Since we live in a rural area, we depend on the grid to be able to pump water from our well. The last power outage saw us filling up water jugs at the local creek for use to flush toilets. As a result, we became convinced we needed off-grid power, but what strategy would be best?
We are good friends with a family that have an automatic propane-powered backup generator. It cost about 15K$ installed, way too expensive for our budget. We also considered gasoline-powered big-box store generators, but they are very noisy, use fuel that is difficult to store due to volatility and rapid degradation, and are not generally considered very reliable. My search for an optimum strategy led me to research military surplus generators, and I wound up winning an MEP003a from Government Liquidation.
My research led me to read TM5-6115-585-12 and -34 as well as every post on this site pertaining to 002s and 003s, so I have gained a lot of knowledge about these units in a fairly short time. Thanks, Steel Soldiers Forum Members! I feel very fortunate that such an extensive pool of knowledge and expertise on these units is available online. In fact, this availability had a strong influence on my chosen strategy. In addition to what I have learned about these units, I have adequate mechanical and electrical aptitude, as well as some experience with diesel engines and electricity (I own a diesel tractor and pick-up truck, and I wired my own workshop, including a sub-panel, rotary phase converter and 3-phase machine tools and their motor control circuits).
My 003 came from the mid-November auction at Fort Meade (Lot 10284, Item 5302). There was a bit of a bidding war for this one, but it was the one I wanted so I hung in there. Getting it home was a breeze, except for the weather (constant rain). The trailer was brand new, purchased by DoD when the generator received its Tier 2 reset at Letterkenny in February 2008. The load range E Firestone tires were a little low on air pressure but otherwise in great shape, and the trailer pulled behind my F-250 like it was not even there for the 220 miles back home.
Here is what I observed about the unit when I first inspected it: All openings had been tape sealed. After nearly four years, the tape was very difficult to remove. Someone had bent the trailer tail light attachment brackets with an incorrectly placed forklift tine. The oil and fuel filters were missing (as expected), but a brand new air filter was present. I got lucky and found the oil filter spring and retainer wedged between one of the cables to the slave receptacle and the shelf below the control cubicle. The DC electrical system was complete with battery cables (including the jumper cable), battery hold down and even the little rubber flaps intended to protect the binding posts. The Hobbs meter had 2.3 hours on it, apparently just from the run-in period following the Tier 2 reset. I figured that batteries, oil and filters would be the only items I needed to acquire to run it.
I purchased a couple of Group 34 batteries and the necessary filters and installed them, added 6.5 quarts of 15-40 diesel grade oil and tried to start the unit.
The first issue I encountered was a fuel leak at the head of the secondary fuel filter where the bolt that secures the filter body passes through the head. A trip to NAPA allowed me to acquire the replacement copper washers (essentially gaskets) needed to fix this leak. Fixing this leak allowed me to spot a smaller leak that was occurring around the brass bleeder plug for this secondary fuel filter. Some Teflon tape wrapped around the bleeder plug fixed this leak and cured (or so I thought) my fuel system issues. I bled the fuel system, noted no leaks and observed good fuel flow back to the tank from the injectors.
I noticed the next issue when I installed the batteries. When I touched the positive battery cable to the binding post to complete the starting circuit, I observed a small spark (the master switch was off). With an ammeter, I noted a phantom load of 3.3 amps. I later discovered this load disappears upon removal of fuse F1 which protects the charging circuit. Since 3.3 amps would discharge the batteries quite quickly, I temporarily dealt with this issue by removing fuse F1 whenever I was not running the unit.
Preliminary results indicated it was OK to start the unit, so I fired it up and adjusted the frequency meter to 60 Hz. I let the unit run for an hour while checking functions/controls and monitoring for oil/fuel leaks. Oil pressure was good and the air shutters moved to a partially open position as the unit warmed up. I plugged a 1500 watt electric heater into the convenience outlet and confirmed generator function. This load barely deflected the percent rated current ammeter in the control cubicle.
The next issue I observed was an erratic function of the frequency meter. Originally set at 60 Hz when the unit first started warming up, it suddenly pegged to the left side of the meter (<55 Hz) and fluttered there (probably due to vibration). I immediately shut the unit down, let it sit for a couple of minutes and restarted it. As soon as the unit reached steady state speed, the frequency meter again pegged at <55Hz. I subsequently discovered that upon each cold start, the frequency meter would operate properly until the unit started warming up, at which point it would peg at <55 Hz.
The next issue I discovered was that the DC battery charging system is apparently overcharging the battery. After the unit has warmed up and continues running, the battery indicator meter gradually drifts upward in voltage into the red zone above the green zone. I have not yet checked the actual charging voltage with my multi-meter.
I next performed a full load test, using my workshop electrical system as a load. To connect the generator to my workshop, I created a dedicated circuit consisting of a 50 amp 120/240 volt receptacle protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker fed from my workshop’s 125 amp sub-panel, flipped off the main breaker in this sub-panel, and back-fed the output from the generator into this sub-panel using this new receptacle (yes, I know this violates NEC, but I was careful and this is a temporary situation intended only for testing. I need the receptacle anyway for a future welder purchase and I will eventually wire a manual transfer switch for the generator). Using a combination of machine tools and baseboard electric heaters, I was able to load the unit to 48 amps @ 240 volts and sustain this load for 30 minutes. I was pretty satisfied at this point.
I was shutting off heaters and machine tools to end the load test when the next issue became apparent: The unit suddenly shut off just like someone had turned off the master switch! I immediately shut off the circuit breaker on the unit and turned off the master switch. After waiting about 5 minutes, I tried to restart the unit. The engine turned over at normal speed, but would not fire. When attempting to restart, I noticed that no white smoke was coming from the exhaust system, which led me to suspect the engine was not getting fuel. I confirmed good fuel flow from the injectors and IP back to the fuel tank with the master switch in the prime/run mode, and also confirmed correct throttle/fuel shut off solenoid operation. Next, I removed the injector line for the #3 cylinder at the IP (this cylinder numbering assumes #1 cylinder is the one closest to the cooling fan) and checked for fuel flow from the IP while cranking the engine. There was no flow. Due to the difficulty of observing the IP and throttle setting while cranking the engine using the master switch, I decided to ensure the throttle was in the open position by wedging a small wood strip between the throttle lever and the top of the oil filter body. Even with the throttle jammed open in this manner, no fuel was being output by the IP to the #3 injector line fitting.
My suspicions pertaining to the observed issues are itemized below. If there are other possible causes that need to be eliminated, please let me know.
I believe some component of the IP has failed to render it incapable of metering fuel. Sitting for nearly four years without being run was not kind to this unit, and it was especially hard on gaskets, o-rings and other non-metallic parts. For example, the o-ring for the strainer body had completely disintegrated. Perhaps the o-rings in the IP have experienced a similar fate. Is there anything else I can check to confirm this suspicion before removing the IP to inspect it? If I can confirm the no start situation is due to the IP, I’m going to have to learn how to fix it based on the -34 TM, previous posts here, and probably some additional questions. Can anyone imagine an IP failure mode that would cause the symptoms I observed? Getting the engine to run again is currently my highest priority issue.
The DC voltage regulator may be overcharging the battery. This issue may be linked to issue of the 3.3 amp phantom load I observe in the charging circuit when the master switch is off. To confirm whether the charging system is actually overcharging the batteries, I need an engine that runs to check the charging system voltage. This is a low priority issue at present, but the inconvenience of pulling fuse F1 at each shut-down and reinstalling it prior to each start-up is not going to be a tolerable long term situation. Have any of you observed a phantom load like this? Could it be caused by some component of the charging circuit having failed closed so as to create this load?
The erratic behavior of the frequency meter leads me to suspect the frequency sensing/amplifying circuitry is failing open somewhere. As the unit warms up, all the metal components expand slightly, so perhaps there is a loose connection at one of the transformers or the frequency transducer. My short-term solution to this issue will be to buy a Kill-a-Watt meter, but not until I get the engine to run again. A longer term solution will entail reading past pertinent threads and the -34 TM for any gems that might lead to ideas for testing.
Once again, I’d like to express my appreciation for all of your informative posts. If you have any suggestions regarding what I can do to better troubleshoot these issues to determine their root causes, I would really appreciate your contributions to this thread. I have a lot of confidence that this generator will eventually be a very reliable unit, but I realize that I still have a lot to learn about it.
Best regards,
Stan
My name is Stan and I’m an addicted tool nut and home shop machinist. I live in western NJ, near the Delaware River about 30 minutes east of Allentown, PA.
This has been a year of extreme weather events in our area. Irene occurred in August (three days without electricity) and then we experienced the freak snowstorm at the end of October (eight days without electricity). Since we live in a rural area, we depend on the grid to be able to pump water from our well. The last power outage saw us filling up water jugs at the local creek for use to flush toilets. As a result, we became convinced we needed off-grid power, but what strategy would be best?
We are good friends with a family that have an automatic propane-powered backup generator. It cost about 15K$ installed, way too expensive for our budget. We also considered gasoline-powered big-box store generators, but they are very noisy, use fuel that is difficult to store due to volatility and rapid degradation, and are not generally considered very reliable. My search for an optimum strategy led me to research military surplus generators, and I wound up winning an MEP003a from Government Liquidation.
My research led me to read TM5-6115-585-12 and -34 as well as every post on this site pertaining to 002s and 003s, so I have gained a lot of knowledge about these units in a fairly short time. Thanks, Steel Soldiers Forum Members! I feel very fortunate that such an extensive pool of knowledge and expertise on these units is available online. In fact, this availability had a strong influence on my chosen strategy. In addition to what I have learned about these units, I have adequate mechanical and electrical aptitude, as well as some experience with diesel engines and electricity (I own a diesel tractor and pick-up truck, and I wired my own workshop, including a sub-panel, rotary phase converter and 3-phase machine tools and their motor control circuits).
My 003 came from the mid-November auction at Fort Meade (Lot 10284, Item 5302). There was a bit of a bidding war for this one, but it was the one I wanted so I hung in there. Getting it home was a breeze, except for the weather (constant rain). The trailer was brand new, purchased by DoD when the generator received its Tier 2 reset at Letterkenny in February 2008. The load range E Firestone tires were a little low on air pressure but otherwise in great shape, and the trailer pulled behind my F-250 like it was not even there for the 220 miles back home.
Here is what I observed about the unit when I first inspected it: All openings had been tape sealed. After nearly four years, the tape was very difficult to remove. Someone had bent the trailer tail light attachment brackets with an incorrectly placed forklift tine. The oil and fuel filters were missing (as expected), but a brand new air filter was present. I got lucky and found the oil filter spring and retainer wedged between one of the cables to the slave receptacle and the shelf below the control cubicle. The DC electrical system was complete with battery cables (including the jumper cable), battery hold down and even the little rubber flaps intended to protect the binding posts. The Hobbs meter had 2.3 hours on it, apparently just from the run-in period following the Tier 2 reset. I figured that batteries, oil and filters would be the only items I needed to acquire to run it.
I purchased a couple of Group 34 batteries and the necessary filters and installed them, added 6.5 quarts of 15-40 diesel grade oil and tried to start the unit.
The first issue I encountered was a fuel leak at the head of the secondary fuel filter where the bolt that secures the filter body passes through the head. A trip to NAPA allowed me to acquire the replacement copper washers (essentially gaskets) needed to fix this leak. Fixing this leak allowed me to spot a smaller leak that was occurring around the brass bleeder plug for this secondary fuel filter. Some Teflon tape wrapped around the bleeder plug fixed this leak and cured (or so I thought) my fuel system issues. I bled the fuel system, noted no leaks and observed good fuel flow back to the tank from the injectors.
I noticed the next issue when I installed the batteries. When I touched the positive battery cable to the binding post to complete the starting circuit, I observed a small spark (the master switch was off). With an ammeter, I noted a phantom load of 3.3 amps. I later discovered this load disappears upon removal of fuse F1 which protects the charging circuit. Since 3.3 amps would discharge the batteries quite quickly, I temporarily dealt with this issue by removing fuse F1 whenever I was not running the unit.
Preliminary results indicated it was OK to start the unit, so I fired it up and adjusted the frequency meter to 60 Hz. I let the unit run for an hour while checking functions/controls and monitoring for oil/fuel leaks. Oil pressure was good and the air shutters moved to a partially open position as the unit warmed up. I plugged a 1500 watt electric heater into the convenience outlet and confirmed generator function. This load barely deflected the percent rated current ammeter in the control cubicle.
The next issue I observed was an erratic function of the frequency meter. Originally set at 60 Hz when the unit first started warming up, it suddenly pegged to the left side of the meter (<55 Hz) and fluttered there (probably due to vibration). I immediately shut the unit down, let it sit for a couple of minutes and restarted it. As soon as the unit reached steady state speed, the frequency meter again pegged at <55Hz. I subsequently discovered that upon each cold start, the frequency meter would operate properly until the unit started warming up, at which point it would peg at <55 Hz.
The next issue I discovered was that the DC battery charging system is apparently overcharging the battery. After the unit has warmed up and continues running, the battery indicator meter gradually drifts upward in voltage into the red zone above the green zone. I have not yet checked the actual charging voltage with my multi-meter.
I next performed a full load test, using my workshop electrical system as a load. To connect the generator to my workshop, I created a dedicated circuit consisting of a 50 amp 120/240 volt receptacle protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker fed from my workshop’s 125 amp sub-panel, flipped off the main breaker in this sub-panel, and back-fed the output from the generator into this sub-panel using this new receptacle (yes, I know this violates NEC, but I was careful and this is a temporary situation intended only for testing. I need the receptacle anyway for a future welder purchase and I will eventually wire a manual transfer switch for the generator). Using a combination of machine tools and baseboard electric heaters, I was able to load the unit to 48 amps @ 240 volts and sustain this load for 30 minutes. I was pretty satisfied at this point.
I was shutting off heaters and machine tools to end the load test when the next issue became apparent: The unit suddenly shut off just like someone had turned off the master switch! I immediately shut off the circuit breaker on the unit and turned off the master switch. After waiting about 5 minutes, I tried to restart the unit. The engine turned over at normal speed, but would not fire. When attempting to restart, I noticed that no white smoke was coming from the exhaust system, which led me to suspect the engine was not getting fuel. I confirmed good fuel flow from the injectors and IP back to the fuel tank with the master switch in the prime/run mode, and also confirmed correct throttle/fuel shut off solenoid operation. Next, I removed the injector line for the #3 cylinder at the IP (this cylinder numbering assumes #1 cylinder is the one closest to the cooling fan) and checked for fuel flow from the IP while cranking the engine. There was no flow. Due to the difficulty of observing the IP and throttle setting while cranking the engine using the master switch, I decided to ensure the throttle was in the open position by wedging a small wood strip between the throttle lever and the top of the oil filter body. Even with the throttle jammed open in this manner, no fuel was being output by the IP to the #3 injector line fitting.
My suspicions pertaining to the observed issues are itemized below. If there are other possible causes that need to be eliminated, please let me know.
I believe some component of the IP has failed to render it incapable of metering fuel. Sitting for nearly four years without being run was not kind to this unit, and it was especially hard on gaskets, o-rings and other non-metallic parts. For example, the o-ring for the strainer body had completely disintegrated. Perhaps the o-rings in the IP have experienced a similar fate. Is there anything else I can check to confirm this suspicion before removing the IP to inspect it? If I can confirm the no start situation is due to the IP, I’m going to have to learn how to fix it based on the -34 TM, previous posts here, and probably some additional questions. Can anyone imagine an IP failure mode that would cause the symptoms I observed? Getting the engine to run again is currently my highest priority issue.
The DC voltage regulator may be overcharging the battery. This issue may be linked to issue of the 3.3 amp phantom load I observe in the charging circuit when the master switch is off. To confirm whether the charging system is actually overcharging the batteries, I need an engine that runs to check the charging system voltage. This is a low priority issue at present, but the inconvenience of pulling fuse F1 at each shut-down and reinstalling it prior to each start-up is not going to be a tolerable long term situation. Have any of you observed a phantom load like this? Could it be caused by some component of the charging circuit having failed closed so as to create this load?
The erratic behavior of the frequency meter leads me to suspect the frequency sensing/amplifying circuitry is failing open somewhere. As the unit warms up, all the metal components expand slightly, so perhaps there is a loose connection at one of the transformers or the frequency transducer. My short-term solution to this issue will be to buy a Kill-a-Watt meter, but not until I get the engine to run again. A longer term solution will entail reading past pertinent threads and the -34 TM for any gems that might lead to ideas for testing.
Once again, I’d like to express my appreciation for all of your informative posts. If you have any suggestions regarding what I can do to better troubleshoot these issues to determine their root causes, I would really appreciate your contributions to this thread. I have a lot of confidence that this generator will eventually be a very reliable unit, but I realize that I still have a lot to learn about it.
Best regards,
Stan
especially these electromechanical meters that have done a lot of sitting in unknown conditions... 
. I don't like the idea of using a punch on the plunger because it only takes a tiny bit of dirt to ruin these parts. Take the delivery valve out and hit it with Berryman B12 Chemtool to dissolve the gunk first. Then if the plunger is still stuck, you can try the plunger tap. 