mrandig
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I think the difference is between a "Commander's seat", which is where to Commander sits, vs. a "commanders-style seat", which is just a description of seat type.
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Fixing the 1998 HMMWV
- Thread starter mrandig
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mrandig
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Day 2 is now over. The 64 item "to-do" list from yesterday is now about 50% complete. I think we're down to around 35, but those final ones are going to be tough to close out. Everything up to this point has been pretty easy.
I finally got a chance today to check all fluids. Regardless of these results, they all will still need to be flushed and refilled, but at least I know where I'm at.
- Coolant (1 gallon low)
- Trans Fluid (slightly dirty)
- Engine Oil (extremely dirty)
- Brake Fluid (contaminated)
- Steering Fluid (dirty)
- Air filter (completely blocked)
- Washer Fluid (empty)
As I go along, I've been hitting electrical connections with solvent, and the connectors themselves with dielectric grease. Didn't help for the headlights, but the windshield wipers do work now. I still need to troubleshoot the pump for the washer fluid, but I'm noticing a few disconnected rubber hoses, any one of which might be the culprit.
The contamination in the brake fluid is concerning enough that I'm starting to question my life choices up to this point. We'll investigate further tomorrow.
I finally got a chance today to check all fluids. Regardless of these results, they all will still need to be flushed and refilled, but at least I know where I'm at.
- Coolant (1 gallon low)
- Trans Fluid (slightly dirty)
- Engine Oil (extremely dirty)
- Brake Fluid (contaminated)
- Steering Fluid (dirty)
- Air filter (completely blocked)
- Washer Fluid (empty)
As I go along, I've been hitting electrical connections with solvent, and the connectors themselves with dielectric grease. Didn't help for the headlights, but the windshield wipers do work now. I still need to troubleshoot the pump for the washer fluid, but I'm noticing a few disconnected rubber hoses, any one of which might be the culprit.
The contamination in the brake fluid is concerning enough that I'm starting to question my life choices up to this point. We'll investigate further tomorrow.
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mrandig
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Now we're on to Day 3. Good times all around.
That sand is so fine, gets everywhere, and just won't come off easily.
Today's lesson: DO NOT try to clean your air filter with a hose. It doesn't work that way. Just go ahead spend the $75.00...
That sand is so fine, gets everywhere, and just won't come off easily.
Today's lesson: DO NOT try to clean your air filter with a hose. It doesn't work that way. Just go ahead spend the $75.00...
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You're reusing the air filter?
mrandig
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No way. Not anymore. Lesson learned the hard way.
I think I need to revise that post however, so someone else doesn't try it.
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mrandig
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Day 3 continued...
So far, this has been the holy trinity of cleaning supplies. Electronic solvent, dielectric grease, and carb cleaner. Obviously, don't use the carb cleaner on electric parts...
The RTV is in the picture just because RTV is always awesome. Disregard the starter relay; it isn't part of this discussion - it's a dodge part.
Looks like I need a new parking brake lever.
The rear suspension is pretty worn, but it looks like it will survive for a while longer.
The rear propeller shaft has a lot of play. We're going to need new u-joints. The front shaft is OK.
There is a minor leak at the transfer case. I think I'm going to leave that alone for now also, since there's so many other issues.
The front suspension looks pretty rough also, but like the rear, it doesn't look like it's going to give out right away.
Not sure why the lower radiator hose would be made of out plain steel, but it looks like it. This is going to need a replacement.
Pretty bad leak at the oil pan. Most of the oil seems to be down at the drain plug, but it looks like it could be coming from the dipstick tube. More investigation will be needed.
Another bad leak at the power steering pump. This explains a lot, including why the power steering is so bad. This will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is on its way out. Both the belt and the tensioner will need to be replaced. Hopefully the water pump hasn't gotten dorked up, but we'll see.
Finally, and I can't stress the importance here enough, 3 of the 4 half shafts were loose. DANGER!!!!
Whew. At least now I know what I need to do next.
So far, this has been the holy trinity of cleaning supplies. Electronic solvent, dielectric grease, and carb cleaner. Obviously, don't use the carb cleaner on electric parts...
The RTV is in the picture just because RTV is always awesome. Disregard the starter relay; it isn't part of this discussion - it's a dodge part.
Looks like I need a new parking brake lever.
The rear suspension is pretty worn, but it looks like it will survive for a while longer.
The rear propeller shaft has a lot of play. We're going to need new u-joints. The front shaft is OK.
There is a minor leak at the transfer case. I think I'm going to leave that alone for now also, since there's so many other issues.
The front suspension looks pretty rough also, but like the rear, it doesn't look like it's going to give out right away.
Not sure why the lower radiator hose would be made of out plain steel, but it looks like it. This is going to need a replacement.
Pretty bad leak at the oil pan. Most of the oil seems to be down at the drain plug, but it looks like it could be coming from the dipstick tube. More investigation will be needed.
Another bad leak at the power steering pump. This explains a lot, including why the power steering is so bad. This will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is on its way out. Both the belt and the tensioner will need to be replaced. Hopefully the water pump hasn't gotten dorked up, but we'll see.
Finally, and I can't stress the importance here enough, 3 of the 4 half shafts were loose. DANGER!!!!
Whew. At least now I know what I need to do next.
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mrandig
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Finally, we can show some progress! Day 3 results are in...
This is just for my planning purposes, but there's so many things to do, it helps to keep track. It also gives me an idea of what to buy, so I don't end up purchasing a bunch of stuff that isn't critical to getting back on the road.
37 Action items completed as of today:
However, there are now 24 items that must be addressed prior to use. These are items directly related to safety and/or operation, or legal requirements (i.e., license plate). DO NOT USE until...
Another 13 items that should be corrected as soon as possible. The truck can be driven, but these items will become a problem if not addressed soon...
And finally, there's 12 items that have no effect on safety or operation. They are improvements, or "just because" items.
Priority here can be subjective. As we go the "priority" occasionally does change as new information comes available. But for now, at least I have a plan.
A lot of what comes next is purchasing parts, materials and waiting on delivery.
This is just for my planning purposes, but there's so many things to do, it helps to keep track. It also gives me an idea of what to buy, so I don't end up purchasing a bunch of stuff that isn't critical to getting back on the road.
37 Action items completed as of today:
However, there are now 24 items that must be addressed prior to use. These are items directly related to safety and/or operation, or legal requirements (i.e., license plate). DO NOT USE until...
Another 13 items that should be corrected as soon as possible. The truck can be driven, but these items will become a problem if not addressed soon...
And finally, there's 12 items that have no effect on safety or operation. They are improvements, or "just because" items.
Priority here can be subjective. As we go the "priority" occasionally does change as new information comes available. But for now, at least I have a plan.
A lot of what comes next is purchasing parts, materials and waiting on delivery.
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I wonder why there is a piece of wire wrapped around the CV boot in the 4th picture?
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Just a fyi when you look for parts.
There are 2 parking brake handles. Early style did not lock and real easy to bump open (don't ask me how I know) and the revised locking handle. The new style is backwards compatible to upgrade.
There are 2 parking brake handles. Early style did not lock and real easy to bump open (don't ask me how I know) and the revised locking handle. The new style is backwards compatible to upgrade.
mrandig
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Why can't I see this? I've looked at that picture, then again - probably 10 more times, and I have nothing. I must be going blind (actually close to a true statement). I just can't find it.
Now I'm going to have to put back on my fart-suit, crawl back under and have another look. At some point, I'm not going to be able to get back up...
mrandig
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I guess my new style, became your old style, the moment I pushed the button too hard.
Isn't there a way to just replace that button, rather than change out the entire assembly?
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BTW it would be easier to scroll through your posts if you posted thumbnails instead of all full images
mrandig
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That's the spot I was thinking you meant, but I need to get a better look. Back underneath I go.
Thumbnails it is.
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LoL
Not that I am aware of
mrandig
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mrandig
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Of course not. That would be too cheap.LoL
mrandig
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Day 4 is probably just going to be fluids. And thumbnails.
Rear differential. Seems like there's an awful lot of grease mixed in with the fluid. Maybe someone got happy during assembly / setup. Whatever.
Quite a few sparkly bits also. Again, whatever. I'm sure it will be fine. Until it's not.
Front differential. Same story.
Transfer case. A 1-3/16" head - really? Honestly, I'm not sure why I even have this socket...
Fluid looks pretty good though. Even smells OK.
Transmission. This must be a T55, since the largest I have is a T50 torx bit.
I just realized that I'm also going to have to change the filter here. That means the cross member also needs to come out, in order to drop the pan. Damn.
Power Steering & Coolant. No point doing a fluid change, since there's repairs to be made. We'll drain these and fill them back up when we're done.
Engine Oil. I'm torn on this one. It absolutely needs to be changed, but I still don't know where or why it's leaking. I may just clean up the leak, run it a while, and then watch where the oil oozes out from. Then I'll change the oil out.
Anyways, off to the store I go for a Torx bits...
Rear differential. Seems like there's an awful lot of grease mixed in with the fluid. Maybe someone got happy during assembly / setup. Whatever.
Quite a few sparkly bits also. Again, whatever. I'm sure it will be fine. Until it's not.
Front differential. Same story.
Transfer case. A 1-3/16" head - really? Honestly, I'm not sure why I even have this socket...
Fluid looks pretty good though. Even smells OK.
Transmission. This must be a T55, since the largest I have is a T50 torx bit.
I just realized that I'm also going to have to change the filter here. That means the cross member also needs to come out, in order to drop the pan. Damn.
Power Steering & Coolant. No point doing a fluid change, since there's repairs to be made. We'll drain these and fill them back up when we're done.
Engine Oil. I'm torn on this one. It absolutely needs to be changed, but I still don't know where or why it's leaking. I may just clean up the leak, run it a while, and then watch where the oil oozes out from. Then I'll change the oil out.
Anyways, off to the store I go for a Torx bits...
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A piece of lexan and bit of fab work you can make a replacement. If I can get my tech. guy involved I'll post a picture of a fab piece.
mrandig
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Back to work.
After this, I need to drain the tranny, and then I'm done for today.
After this, I need to drain the tranny, and then I'm done for today.
mrandig
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That would be great. Thank you.