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Congratulatons on your purchase. You've come to the right place if you need help. Once you get it, take plenty of photos.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
.Hey guys, just joined after spending the last few days reading through this thread (I'm up to page 100) picking up my new to me SEE in a couple weeks. Always wanted a unimog but never really had an excuse to buy one until I found this thing for sale while looking for a tractor. I live in BC, Canada and I don't imagine a lot of SEEs made it over the border. I found one other one for sale on the other side of the country for a crazy price and have a line on a parts rig semi locally. May be in for a little electrical work as that seems to be a common issue with these. The seller agreed to knock a thousand off the price if he can't get the lights working by the time I pick it up. Body is clean and seems to be in decent shape mechanically beside needing rear axle seals and some work on the power steering system. Will be sure to post some pictures once I pick it up.
Broken Record TIme, Get the manual and do the point by point inspection of the vehicle, you will learn a lot and maybe catch a few major issues (like portal axles that need gearoil)Thanks for the welcome, still have lots of reading to do but went over today to finish the transaction. Having it towed home tomorrow. The diagnosed bad power steering pump appears to just be a loose/worn belt. Hopefully the other issues are as easy to fix! Unfortunately I won't have much time to play with it as it will be home in the evening tomorrow and I leave the next day for work for 2 weeks.
If you don't have sufficient air pressure to the transmission Intermediate Speed Control the piston won't slide back and forth selecting low and high range. There can be other causes as well. In my case, the piston was corroded and my FLU419 broke down on the highway. It was working fine and then all of a sudden, it was like I was in neutral, with no forward gears and no reverse. Check out posts 5281 and 5282. Have you read the TM? There is some very good information there. The easiest way to troubleshoot the problem is to remove the interior plate where the shifters are. Once this is removed, you have direct access to the pneumatic lines to the top of the transmission and if it happens that you have a similar issue like I did, you can lift off the top of the transmission quite easily. One note, you need to have the air pressure charged to near full pressure before the intermediate speed control will function. The whole pneumatic system in this area is quite simple. Do you have a copy of the Student Handout on the FLU419? This document is invaluable if working on a FLU419. I've attached a copy in case you don't have a copy.Working on the air lines, thank you all for the diagram a while back on how it should lay. Have any of you guys actually worked on yours?
Looking at mine with an eye to getting air to the tranny, there is only a vauge resemblance to the diagram. Near as i can tell only way to get air to the tranny stuff is if the 4wheel drive is on, which is not right. Anyone else have simaler experience? (Parts of the wiring are just as messed up so not surprised.)
If i wanted to just put an air compressor to one of the air fittings on the tranny to get it in gear would it stay in gear?
Sounds like you had quite the adventure getting it home. That inner belt is a real pain in the rear without the cab tilted. I expect that job is in my near future again. IMHO that is one of the biggest design flaws of the system. The belt that drives the hydraulics for the front loader takes a real beating and should be easier to swap out.... Got back home yesterday and tackled the power steering. Changed all three belts, ps was a bitch to change. Fixed both doors, drivers side was missing the button and pass side wouldn't latch. Next on the list is to check all portal/diff/trans oils and adjust the throttle linkage so I can shut it off properly.
I actually found the button under the driver's seat, the bolt had fallen out inside the door. Ei has the non locking handle for about $100 and locking for double.Sounds like you had quite the adventure getting it home. That inner belt is a real pain in the rear without the cab tilted. I expect that job is in my near future again. IMHO that is one of the biggest design flaws of the system. The belt that drives the hydraulics for the front loader takes a real beating and should be easier to swap out.
I have lost the outside drivers handle on mine, and just put my finger through the hole to open the door. When you say yours was missing the button, what did you do to fix it? I haven't looked for a replacement handle. Does anyone know how hard they are to come by?
On the doors, keep the hinges well oiled. Those pins have a tendency to seize up, and can be a pain to deal with.
Yep the tach is driiven off the alternator. The TM has a good section on diagnosing the alternator. It has been a few years since I went through mine, but if you have a multi-meter you should be able to track down the issue fairly fast. Before you pull it though check your ground to the instrument panel I would lay money that is where the issue isJust completed digging quite a length of trench with the backhoe and everything was working perfectly. Until today when I started the engine to move the SEE to where I normally park it. The alternator isn't charging and the tachometer isn't reading. I imagine the tachometer is driven by the alternator like a lot of vehicles. Something else to fix!
For $100 I think I will keep pokeing finger through the hole. Thanks though.I actually found the button under the driver's seat, the bolt had fallen out inside the door. Ei has the non locking handle for about $100 and locking for double.