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Front axle problem

RANDYDIRT

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If you have the hubs unlocked and you still hear a clicking noise, then it almost has to be a bearing. The reason I say this is because with the hubs unlocked there is nothing else moving in the front end.

Nurse Dirt
 

1986Blazerk5

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If you have the hubs unlocked and you still hear a clicking noise, then it almost has to be a bearing. The reason I say this is because with the hubs unlocked there is nothing else moving in the front end.

Nurse Dirt
I agree, i had a right front bearing go bad, and it made a ticking noise with the hubs unlocked.
 

CROM

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Anyone know of any speacial way to get the mounting bolts off of the caliper...the two big hex-head bolts....lefty loosey, right? I'm 99% sure its just a bad wheel bearing...may as well put new breaks on if i can ever get the old ones off...:mad:
 

stumps

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When one of the rear wheel bearings went bad on my F250, it locked the rear wheel up tight. The tire skidded and I almost lost control. After I came to a stop, and assessed the situation, I put the truck in 4WL, and backed it up a little, and then forward, and then back until it freed up, and limped home at 10MPH.

The problem is called a cage failure. There is a soft metal cage that keeps the rollers from touching each other and creating great friction. The cage is supposed to float ahead of the rollers, and just be lightly pushed out of the way as the bearing turns. However, if you get dirt in the bearing, or the lubrication gets bad, a roller can catch hold of one of the bars in the cage and drag it into the bearing. That acts like a wedge that locks up the roller and races and will really stop a wheel fast... in some cases it can even twist the spindle right off of the vehicle.

It usually isn't enough to just replace the races and the bearing. Usually you need a new spindle too, as the race galls up the bottom of the spindle as it plays sleeve bearing.

-Chuck
 

stumps

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Anyone know of any speacial way to get the mounting bolts off of the caliper...the two big hex-head bolts....lefty loosey, right? I'm 99% sure its just a bad wheel bearing...may as well put new breaks on if i can ever get the old ones off...:mad:
I know nothing about GM's, but on other vehicles I have worked on the caliper is not bolted to anything. It usually is held in place by a pair of split pins, or clips.

Do you have a manual?

-Chuck
 

CROM

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Thanks, Chuck. That is exactley what happend to me, except it was the front right wheel that locked. I plan on replacing the entire assembly and cleaning out the rest of the wheels while i have it on jacks...if i can ever get these bolts off..
 

CROM

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I know nothing about GM's, but on other vehicles I have worked on the caliper is not bolted to anything. It usually is held in place by a pair of split pins, or clips.

Do you have a manual?

-Chuck
No, it's an auto...i have the army manual and it simply says "remove two mounting bolts ... remove caliper... They have a hex head on the inside ends...i'm afraid to try tapping yet until i find out for certain that's how they are removed..
 

Barrman

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3/8" hex normal "lefty loosy, righty tighty" stuff. A breaker bar instead of a ratchet with a medium sized hammer to help it start moving it probably what you need. Grease up the slider pins when you put it back together.
 

Blood_of_Tyrants

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Bolts are standard threads (lefty-loosey, ect). Get a cheater bar and put some heft on the bolt heads.

Hope you didn't run the front axle with no lube or you may be replacing a LOT of bearings and parts. Water intrusion is also a problem.
 

CROM

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Thanks guys, i assumed so, but didn't want really start pulling until i was sure. Last thing i need is a snaped off bolt head and a broken knuckle.
 

citizensoldier

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sounds to me like a ring and pinion/ axle shaft issue.. My guess is pinion bearing is bad.. But hey what do I know.. I don't think its a wheel bearing because they both locked up.. Sounds like the differential locked up and then something broke maybe one shaft "betting the long side" and that is why one side spins..
 

coyotegray

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Thanks guys, i assumed so, but didn't want really start pulling until i was sure. Last thing i need is a snaped off bolt head and a broken knuckle.

The fun hasn't started until blood is spilled..

I don't think I have done anything of significance on a vehicle that didn't result in some type of injury... :grd:
 

CROM

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Des Moines, IA
Both sides spin, only one makes noise and only one locked up....can't get it apart to inspect until i get the caliper off, though....prolly have to cut the busted bolt...
 

bronconut

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get a vice grip and clamp it on the bolt that runs thru the caliper and spin it out, not to hard if you have to put some heat on it.
 

Warthog

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The problem is called a cage failure. There is a soft metal cage that keeps the rollers from touching each other and creating great friction. The cage is supposed to float ahead of the rollers, and just be lightly pushed out of the way as the bearing turns. However, if you get dirt in the bearing, or the lubrication gets bad, a roller can catch hold of one of the bars in the cage and drag it into the bearing. That acts like a wedge that locks up the roller and races and will really stop a wheel fast... in some cases it can even twist the spindle right off of the vehicle.

-Chuck
Not a CUCV but this is a 5-ton that the wheel locked up. Just an example..........
 

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CROM

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Des Moines, IA
HA! CROM 1 - Caliper 0 ! Busted the head off of the other bolt, but with heat and mean set of channel locks I got 'em off! Thanks Bronconut!

Now to find this bearing..
 
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