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I agree, i had a right front bearing go bad, and it made a ticking noise with the hubs unlocked.If you have the hubs unlocked and you still hear a clicking noise, then it almost has to be a bearing. The reason I say this is because with the hubs unlocked there is nothing else moving in the front end.
Nurse Dirt
I know nothing about GM's, but on other vehicles I have worked on the caliper is not bolted to anything. It usually is held in place by a pair of split pins, or clips.Anyone know of any speacial way to get the mounting bolts off of the caliper...the two big hex-head bolts....lefty loosey, right? I'm 99% sure its just a bad wheel bearing...may as well put new breaks on if i can ever get the old ones off...![]()
No, it's an auto...i have the army manual and it simply says "remove two mounting bolts ... remove caliper... They have a hex head on the inside ends...i'm afraid to try tapping yet until i find out for certain that's how they are removed..I know nothing about GM's, but on other vehicles I have worked on the caliper is not bolted to anything. It usually is held in place by a pair of split pins, or clips.
Do you have a manual?
-Chuck
Thanks guys, i assumed so, but didn't want really start pulling until i was sure. Last thing i need is a snaped off bolt head and a broken knuckle.
Not a CUCV but this is a 5-ton that the wheel locked up. Just an example..........The problem is called a cage failure. There is a soft metal cage that keeps the rollers from touching each other and creating great friction. The cage is supposed to float ahead of the rollers, and just be lightly pushed out of the way as the bearing turns. However, if you get dirt in the bearing, or the lubrication gets bad, a roller can catch hold of one of the bars in the cage and drag it into the bearing. That acts like a wedge that locks up the roller and races and will really stop a wheel fast... in some cases it can even twist the spindle right off of the vehicle.
-Chuck