Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[JCKnife]

Day 1: broke loose all the lug nuts.
Day 2: set her up on jack stands and removed the front wheels.

Yep, I set a blistering pace!

 

[HASSON1911]

could you tell me what kind of gear lube you use in the axle and how much ive got a rear end that needs some serious overhauling

 

[Mike929]

could you tell me what kind of gear lube you use in the axle and how much ive got a rear end that needs some serious overhauling

I purchased NAPA brand 80/90wt GL-5/MT-1 gear oil for mine.

 

[DieselBob]

Day 1: broke loose all the lug nuts.
Day 2: set her up on jack stands and removed the front wheels.

Yep, I set a blistering pace!

Better slow down there speedy. Don't want to over do it the first week.

 

[JCKnife]

Better slow down there speedy. Don't want to over do it the first week.

Hey, it's humid. Maybe this weekend I'll get a lot done. The Marine Corps League wants her in a parade on 9/15, that's my motivation!

 

[JCKnife]

Day 3: began to remove the first axle flange, and on the 3rd bolt I broke my ratchet.

Edit: Day 3 continued. I switched over to using a box-end wrench inside a 3' steel pipe and removed the remaining bolts, BUT one of them sheared off deep in the hub. I suppose I need a new hub now? I could try to drill it out but man, I'll bet that's hard steel and I just have a cheap-o HF drill press.

The driver side came apart without much effort. I'd say the last time these were apart, only the driver side was done (much less rust there as well).

Fun, fun. 8 hours my fanny.

 

[DieselBob]

I wouldn't abandon ship that quick on the broken bolt. There is nothing special about the bolts. I don't believe they are even grade 8. A good drill bit, extractor and patience can do wonders. A lot cheaper than a hub, but then again I have more time than money for these things.

 

[JCKnife]

DB, you've given me something to look up. Don't know what an extractor is but clearly I didn't invent this problem! Thanks.

 

[DieselBob]

Here you go.

McMaster-Carr

 

[John S-B]

Here's a question: assume I only have a couple hours a week to work on this. Is it OK to leave the deuce sitting on jack stands under the front axle housing for like a month? Not sure if that would be a good idea or not...

If the deuce is sitting on a good concrete slab, it should be fine barring a tornado. On asphalt they would probably sink a little and leave permanent divots. You could use a plywood pad and that would prevent damage to the asphalt. I'd make a pad from two sheets of 3/4" CDX (treated plywood will last a lot longer, but not necessary) and glue them together with liquid nails with a few small finishing nails to keep them lined up. Press with a heavy weight for 24 hrs and you will have a great jack pad. You can even go thicker. Make it about 3" wider than your jack stand on all sides. If you are going to do this on gravel or dirt, I'd recommed using treated plywood and using 4 layers of 3/4". Treat with Thompsons' water seal after the glue has cured and that will support the truck well unless you are in a lot of mud.

 

[Mike929]

If the deuce is sitting on a good concrete slab, it should be fine barring a tornado. On asphalt they would probably sink a little and leave permanent divots. You could use a plywood pad and that would prevent damage to the asphalt. I'd make a pad from two sheets of 3/4" CDX (treated plywood will last a lot longer, but not necessary) and glue them together with liquid nails with a few small finishing nails to keep them lined up. Press with a heavy weight for 24 hrs and you will have a great jack pad. You can even go thicker. Make it about 3" wider than your jack stand on all sides. If you are going to do this on gravel or dirt, I'd recommend using treated plywood and using 4 layers of 3/4". Treat with Thompsons' water seal after the glue has cured and that will support the truck well unless you are in a lot of mud.

Temperatures may also make a difference. Asphalt can get softer in high tempts. I have heard (but never seen) bikes kickstands sinking into asphalt on very hot days. Hot here is over 100 degrees.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Temperatures may also make a difference. Asphalt can get softer in high tempts. I have heard (but never seen) bikes kickstands sinking into asphalt on very hot days. Hot here is over 100 degrees.

Yup... Kickstands can easily "puncture" softened asphalt. They also make products to distribute the load over a greater area to prevent this problem.

Using plates of wood or metal under the concentrated load(s) of MV wheels/tires can similarly prevent asphalt pavement damage.

 

[PropDr]

Day 3: began to remove the first axle flange, and on the 3rd bolt I broke my ratchet.

Edit: Day 3 continued. I switched over to using a box-end wrench inside a 3' steel pipe and removed the remaining bolts, BUT one of them sheared off deep in the hub. I suppose I need a new hub now? I could try to drill it out but man, I'll bet that's hard steel and I just have a cheap-o HF drill press.

The driver side came apart without much effort. I'd say the last time these were apart, only the driver side was done (much less rust there as well).

Fun, fun. 8 hours my fanny.

In addition to what DieselBob said after drilling the broken bolt heat the imidate area around the bolt with a torch or throw the hub in the oven @350 for an hour or so, then while its still hot apply penatrating oil to the broken bolt. The heat thins out the oil helping it penatrate the threads. Then try to extract it. This usually works for most stuborn bolts and studs. Also a good quality penatrating oil like Kroil or Mouse Milk makes a differance versus liquid wrench.

 

[JCKnife]

I've made some good progress today getting the brake shoe assemblies and backing plates off, and just removed the tie rod. BUT in so doing I damaged the threads on one of the tie rod nuts. Anyone have these in stock or should I look again at McMaster-Carr or something?

Nevermind the tie-rod nut issue. I filed down the offending threads and the nut goes on fine now. Sorry, I tend to over-react when something goes wrong.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I've broken a bolt or two in the hub before. Wasn't too much of an issue driling it and removing the remainder with an easyout.

 

[DieselBob]

Just a FYI, Take a close look at the threads on the studs that fasten the backing plate / spindle to the knuckle. I had 3 or 4 that had bad threads and needed replaced. They are easy to replace and Dorman makes a perfect grade 8 replacement available at any good auto parts store.

 

[JCKnife]

I've made really good progress today. The passenger side is all apart except the seal(s) inside the axle housing. The driver's side is where I'm hung up: what's the trick to getting the steering arm to let go of the steering knuckle? I've got the bolts off and have given it some significant love taps with the BFH but it is snug as ever. Bottom bolts and bushings are out. It'll move up and down but not let go.

Also I need to read up on exactly how many seals I am replacing. I bought a "complete set" from Ted's Trucks but is there additionally a hub seal I don't have? (you can't answer that, I realize). Also seems like several of the parts I disassembled had RTV / silicone gaskets between them.

...but that's all stuff for later...

This thread and site has been invaluable as always. Thanks.

 

[JCKnife]

Oh, one more follow-up: I have both axles out but never found these thrust washers. Are they likely to have fallen off inside the axle housing or are they attached to the axle shaft? #12 and #13 in this pic.

Looks to me like there are possibly thrust washers on the outside and inside edges of the U-joint but a) it's hard to tell and b) if they are there, they don't seem to want to come off.

 

[davey8943]

JCKnife,

I pulled a picture that Banshee365 uploaded. Then highlighted the thrust washers in a red rectangle.

When I pulled mine apart, the washers didn't look bad so I never touched them.

TMMV

Good luck, and keep on truckin!
Dave

 

[JCKnife]

Thanks Dave! Yeah, those are in place on my axles. The TM drawing made it look like they would fall off separately!

Any ideas on removing the steering arm from the steering knuckle? I just searched the -20 TM again and can't find any info on this.

OH, and p.s. I was able to borrow a slide hammer at Autozone free of charge. $80 deposit to take it out but refunded in full when I bring it back!