Fuel delivery issue M1123 ,Crank no start .....help?!

[Mogman]

Checking fuel flow from the fuel filter outlet to the IP is the first and only step you need to do to verify that all is good down stream…just use a jar and a quick crank, after that, all TS is at the pump.
getting fuel out of the top of the pump drainback nipple is common place, you will always get fuel as long as the
lines are clear to the inlet, it’s all the other areas of the inner workings of the pump that you can’t see that are the problem, the biggest issue I see is the broken plunger shaft run off the cam….I just had a truck with a broken woodruff key on the cam shaft, so make sure the timing gear is even rotating when you crank the truck, next up is to make sure the plungers are even rotating inside the pump, so pull the cover and verify that, if not, broken shaft.

He has already confirmed the pump head is rotating.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Have you removed the return FITTING yet?

I have not. I just got home and I’m getting ready to get back to work on it. I had a really nice Fathers Day lunch Alone! Haha kids

 

[Maxjeep1]

Remove the return fitting out of the top of the IP and see if you have fuel coming out then. are you sure you are getting fuel TO the IP?
while you have the fitting out you can blow some air through it (from the threaded end) to be sure that check valve is not stuck or plugged, the check ball is glass so you should be able to see a little light coming through it.

Took fitting out blew air thru it from threaded side and it’s clear. Turned engine over with fitting out and zero fuel from return

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I watched the shaft spin where the rotor or veins and the location where you turn up the fuel. Must be plugged where fuel comes in and all of those small passages. I will have to pull it off. I dread pulling the intake and probably turbo and I will need some sort of special shaped wrench to get those 3 nuts off. I read the removal process in TM and it doesn’t go into much detail of what else needs to come off before you get to the pump. Thanks for all of the input and helping me work thru my denial

turbo injection pumps are easier than NA’s, pull the crossover, pull the intakes…I use no special wrench, just a 5/8 open ended aren’t, you don’t need any flare wrenches. You just need to install in reverse order you took the hard lines off the pump so you can tighten them back up…sounds easy, I’ve done hundreds

 

[Maxjeep1]

turbo injection pumps are easier than NA’s, pull the crossover, pull the intakes…I use no special wrench, just a 5/8 open ended aren’t, you don’t need any flare wrenches. You just need to install in reverse order you took the hard lines off the pump so you can tighten them back up…sounds easy, I’ve done hundreds

Hahahaha how much does something like that cost? I need to get busy on it and get it running. I was watching for a sale but nothing has come up AMGeneral has some good ones a few times a year

 

[Mogman]

Well then if you are POSITIVE you are getting fuel to the IP and zip zero out of the body then you will not hurt anything by pulling the screen, not likely the problem though. but will not cost anything to look as you strip it down to pull the IP, RWH is correct of course, the turbo is easier to work on as far as the IP goes.
Make sure you PLUG THOSE HOLES!!!

 

[Maxjeep1]

Well then if you are POSITIVE you are getting fuel to the IP and zip zero out of the body then you will not hurt anything by pulling the screen, not likely the problem though. but will not cost anything to look as you strip it down to pull the IP, RWH is correct of course, the turbo is easier to work on as far as the IP goes.
Make sure you PLUG THOSE HOLES!!!

Valley is so dirty I hate to even pull it. I will try to blow it out really good to get the loose stuff off.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Another frustrated Father fussing with a HumV from a remote location. From the fumbling and my attention span... Got lift pump flow and pressure. Asked for flow and numbers. Got a big squirt ? OK better that a dribble?

Crack a few more injector lines. Turning engine over (170 RPMS min) IP transfer pump fills governor housing? Is metering valve free to rotate?? with Governor linkage....all free to move and springs in place, not bent, stuck, gummed up along with throttle linkage controlling them. These parts can be observer with the governor housing cap removed. Visual "eyeballing the rotation of the rotor. Is it rotation? Leave the housing cap off to test. Check solenoid and properly reassembly. It's tricky and listen for the clicky. I think we have been down this road?

ANY sign of water having been in the housing is a BIG problem. Any white chalky-frosty curd? Black tint on inside walls or floating around?

If you have met all the requirement for the IP to be an IP from where you stand.... roll the dice......

Since one has the day off... BIG DADDY, suck all the crud and ATF out ?? Carburetor spray in hand and waste the whole damm can cleaning any thing that moves, turns wiggles, passage ways, vents, ports, working linkage and metering valve assemble. Crap shoot right out of Vegas. lol

Snap a couple photos and post. Worth a thousand words. I've been told, YEP, nice truck, good deal. Saw the pictures.... Total rust bucket NOT saying yours...just saying. Problems inside and out.

Bet it all on a can of Gumout, or take it out, CAMO

 

[Mogman]

OK this does bring up a question, you said earlier you were charging batteries, do you have a known GOOD set of batteries? just a thought...

 

[Maxjeep1]

OK this does bring up a question, you said earlier you were charging batteries, do you have a known GOOD set of batteries? just a thought...

When I load test them on my charger they both say OK. I had them on my battery tender and they were both green as fully charged. I know it doesn’t mean much but batteries are from 8/21

 

[Maxjeep1]

Another frustrated Father fussing with a HumV from a remote location. From the fumbling and my attention span... Got lift pump flow and pressure. Asked for flow and numbers. Got a big squirt ? OK better that a dribble?

Crack a few more injector lines. Turning engine over (170 RPMS min) IP transfer pump fills governor housing? Is metering valve free to rotate?? with Governor linkage....all free to move and springs in place, not bent, stuck, gummed up along with throttle linkage controlling them. These parts can be observer with the governor housing cap removed. Visual "eyeballing the rotation of the rotor. Is it rotation? Leave the housing cap off to test. Check solenoid and properly reassembly. It's tricky and listen for the clicky. I think we have been down this road?

ANY sign of water having been in the housing is a BIG problem. Any white chalky-frosty curd? Black tint on inside walls or floating around?

If you have met all the requirement for the IP to be an IP from where you stand.... roll the dice......

Since one has the day off... BIG DADDY, suck all the crud and ATF out ?? Carburetor spray in hand and waste the whole damm can cleaning any thing that moves, turns wiggles, passage ways, vents, ports, working linkage and metering valve assemble. Crap shoot right out of Vegas. lol

Snap a couple photos and post. Worth a thousand words. I've been told, YEP, nice truck, good deal. Saw the pictures.... Total rust bucket NOT saying yours...just saying. Problems inside and out.

Bet it all on a can of Gumout, or take it out, CAMO

After draining the ip and pouring 6 once’s of atf in it. I took the 54a wire off and cranked it for several times. I took cap off and it was maybe 3/4 filled… it should’ve been full by then. I will pull cap and get some cans of carb cleaner brake cleaner and run it in every hole I can find

 

[Maxjeep1]

OK this does bring up a question, you said earlier you were charging batteries, do you have a known GOOD set of batteries? just a thought...

I have brand new batteries for it when I get it running but I didn’t want to use them for what I’m doing. I might have to try it

 

[Mogman]

Don't put anything in the front of the body (the first picture arrow) where the gov weights are that could eat the input shaft seals..
I know RWH would frown on this as he is a reputable business man and this is just not how he would be expected to do things, he would replace the pump because it would fix the issue and insure the owner a long time solution, but you have nothing to loose but time and effort at this point.

 

[Mogman]

I have brand new batteries for it when I get it running but I didn’t want to use them for what I’m doing. I might have to try it

YES now is the time to put those new batteries in!!
It is not out of the realm of possibility that the cranking voltage is low enough that the run solenoid could possibly be dropping out!

 

[Mogman]

And/or that few more RPM might help best loose whatever is stuck!

 

[Maxjeep1]

And/or that few more RPM might help best loose whatever is stuck!

New batteries are in…

 

[Mogman]

Camo is correct in saying you should have posted some pics, we never got a report on how the inside of the body looked? clean as a whistle?
While some IPs may die from things like water intrusion diesel does not tend to gum things up as bad as say gasoline.
IMHO many of the failed IPs are as Camo says just something stuck, but of course even if you get it going that does not mean it cannot fail again.
If I was working on your truck I would replace the IP, but if it were my truck that would be a different story.
Of course these were made/designed before ULSD so I a lubricant in the fuel is a must IMHO, I use Stanadyne "lubricity formula" because I figured they build the pumps so they should know what it needs.
End of rambling...
Well, maybe not.. JP8 has 0.06 wt% sulfur while commercial diesel has 0.001wt% sulfur, 60X the sulfur interesting..

 

[Maxjeep1]

Camo is correct in saying you should have posted some pics, we never got a report on how the inside of the body looked? clean as a whistle?
While some IPs may die from things like water intrusion diesel does not tend to gum things up as bad as say gasoline.
IMHO many of the failed IPs are as Camo says just something stuck, but of course even if you get it going that does not mean it cannot fail again.
If I was working on your truck I would replace the IP, but if it were my truck that would be a different story.
Of course these were made/designed before ULSD so I a lubricant in the fuel is a must IMHO, I use Stanadyne "lubricity formula" because I figured they build the pumps so they should know what it needs.
End of rambling...
Well, maybe not.. JP8 has 0.06 wt% sulfur while commercial diesel has 0.001wt% sulfur, 60X the sulfur interesting..

I will post pics of the inside of ip tomorrow when I drain it. I need to figure out why I was getting fuel out of return and now it stopped. Fuel that came out of filter looks clean.

 

[Mogman]

I will post pics of the inside of ip tomorrow when I drain it. I need to figure out why I was getting fuel out of return and now it stopped. Fuel that came out of filter looks clean. View attachment 870777

OK, add some water to that bottle, shake it up real good and the set it on a shelf for a few days and see if a black line appears between the water and fuel, this might indicate if you have "bugs" in your fuel, may as well while you are puttering around...
The bacteria lives in the water but feeds on the fuel so the boundary is where you find them.
Just not sure if you do not have any water already if the bacteria would be alive, otherwise you may see the dead ones accumulating at the bottom of the bottle.

 

[Maxjeep1]

This is a really good place and it’s filled with good people! Thank you for your help and patient’s