Fuel leak, over top of turbo, what is it?

[peashooter]

Working strange shifts again !!!! I will post pictures ASAP., latter this week on off day.

No problem Deathrowdave, let me ask you this then. What direction does the check valve on the return line need to be in? I thought I read somewhere that the small line (higher pressure line from the pump) just is used to pilot activate the valve and that the return line is what supplies fuel... if thats the case the check valve would be mounted one way. But when I hooked up my new (and leaking) flame heater valve, i watched fuel go out the back of the valve and up the return line (so the check valve would need to go in the other direction).
Do I want fuel only coming out of the flame heater nozzle valve going up the return line to the Tee with the injectors, or do I want fuel only going the other direction? thats the only thing I really cant get, I've read conflicting posts.

 

[cattlerepairman]

opcorn:

I plugged my red high pressure line only. Waiting for an answer on that question.

 

[Amram]

I plan on taking my entire flame heater unit off. Can I use the hole left by the pipe right above the turbo to install my probe for my EGT sensor? I am trying to find a way to plug the hole while installing the probe intern killing 2 birds with one stone.

 

[peashooter]

I plan on taking my entire flame heater unit off. Can I use the hole left by the pipe right above the turbo to install my probe for my EGT sensor? I am trying to find a way to plug the hole while installing the probe intern killing 2 birds with one stone.

No you would need to put the probe on the exahust side. The flame heater hole is on the intake. If you put a probe in the flame heater hole you would be reading pretty close to ambient temperature.

 

[Amram]

dooh!! I feel pretty stupid now....for some reason I thought I was looking at the exhaust manifold yesterday. Still new to the truck...will go back to reading and less speaking now.

 

[Blackmagic94]

I used Right Stuff RTV on the end cap of mine and its been GTG for 4 months now with ZERO issues.

 

[lawdog1623]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pz4fYBo5Jfs[/media] not sure if its been posted yet but this helped me diagnose the problem with mine.

 

[peashooter]

No problem Deathrowdave, let me ask you this then. What direction does the check valve on the return line need to be in? I thought I read somewhere that the small line (higher pressure line from the pump) just is used to pilot activate the valve and that the return line is what supplies fuel... if thats the case the check valve would be mounted one way. But when I hooked up my new (and leaking) flame heater valve, i watched fuel go out the back of the valve and up the return line (so the check valve would need to go in the other direction).
Do I want fuel only coming out of the flame heater nozzle valve going up the return line to the Tee with the injectors, or do I want fuel only going the other direction? thats the only thing I really cant get, I've read conflicting posts.

Well the new "improved" flame heater nozzle I got from Memphis is definately bad also. Hooked it up to an air compressor and it just started spraying air out the nozzle at any pressure. Called memphis and they had me talk to service, the guy sent me a new one of the original design that he had tested before shipping. I tried the air compressor test with that one and it didnt leak out the nozzle until the pressure got up to about 40 psi. Be Warned if you get the new style that apparently many of us have leaks with them.
I followed deathrowdave's idea and added a 24vdc 1/8npt solenoid valve right in front of the flame heater pump ($15 shipped from ebay), and a check valve off the output of the flame heater ($11 mcmaster) to prevent any leaks again

 

[lawdog1623]

My replacement is leakingtoo. I second the request for a picture of your setup deathrow!

 

[JasonS]

The one that I got from White Owl is a good one.

 

[3dAngus]

OK, going through this again and just catching up as I may be going through this again.

So here is a recap...

So, the one from Memphis Equipment is out, because either they don't work or you will end up ordering more parts to fix it. Specifically a solenoid valve and a check valve. That one makes no sense at all.

Next, WhiteOwl seems to have the original and it works.
Also, for $98. you can get one from SECO that is the original part and it should work.

O-rings don't work. They are square. Cost about $3 each.

Pulling it apart, you're likely to loose something as it is spring loaded. Protect it and all parts from flying out when you open it up to inspect, clean, and/or replace.

Odds are, even when you rebuild it, it will still leak, and you will need to go back and try again.

Don't expect to go and get parts and this be a one effort job. It's rare, and usually, the only way that is going to happen without ordering new parts again is if you order the original part, and it works. Repeat, AND it works.

If you elect to cap, rather than replace, cap it at all ends. You cannot just cap one end and forget about it.

 

[JCKnife]

I've still never been able to get mine apart! Someone must have JBweded it or something.

 

[deathrowdave]

Sorry about the delay I have some back issues going on now and don't feel up to crawling up to open the hood and get pictures. I can explain locations of the valves to you. The solenoid valve goes on the inlet side of the pump or heater which ever you want. It is wired to open as you start the fuel heater allowing fuel to enter the nozzle . The check valve goes on the return side and only allows fuel nozzle unused fuel to return. Without this check valve unused injection pump fuel(engine) will enter the return line of the nozzle and enter the crankcase . Mine his worked great with these two mods for years now. Sorry for the delay . I will post pictures ASAP, I got a new smart phone and have moved from the dark ages !! Just have to hope for better on the back issues!!!! Have a great and safe holiday !!