Fuel nozzle leak

[Somemedic]

Tapping the cap with a light hammer and scewdriver/chiesel/punch eventually released it...

The rubber o-rings I thought were initially nylon crumbled when I tried to take them off. The new ones were universal o-rings from an assorted kit (a-zone) and dont really fit zactly but I believe will work.

would still like to see how the nozzle side of things are supposed to go back together.

Heres pics of the nozzle side of things. They are in the order I BELIEVE they go back into the fuel nozzle. Need confirmation:

 

[Bushman5000]

That's not the order they came out of mine...

 

[KaiserM109]

A Third 'O' Ring

Resurrecting an old link.
I had a leaking nozzle and remembered this link so I found it using ‘search’. I don’t have much to offer about the nozzle except don’t overlook a Harley Davidson motorcycle shop when looking for ‘O’ rings. Also make sure the ‘O’ rings you get are rated for fuel. NAPA tried to sell me one that was not.

What I do have to add is there is one more ‘O’ ring that you should replace. When I got the nozzle fixed and the little line going to it had some back pressure applied I sprung a new leak and found another ‘O’ ring to blame. It is on what looks like a pump used to pump the heated fuel to the nozzle. See pic’s:

 

[Brock Steel]

Memphis has new ones 45 bucks. A temp fix RTV the back up. How do you get it off? the vapor draft tube is in the way how do you remove it?

 

[KaiserM109]

There is a supply line that goes from the supply pump to a filter and then to the little pump. A small line goes from the pump to the nozzle; then a large line goes from the nozzle to the return line on the line of injectors.

I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump with a pipe that reaches down to the same level as the original pump. When I have $$ I intend to get a replacement pump from Olympic. For now I have a Carter in-line pump next to the tank (about $82 for pump and fittings).

I have decided to remove the pump on the heater nozzle, probably permanently. I will plug the port on the supply pump and replace the ‘T’ section between 2 of the injectors with a solid one. In areas where I plan to use the deuce it gets to around a minus 10 degrees F. If I have trouble I will resort to ether.

I believe that it was sucking air through the pump head which surprises me because it seems to me that it should have been spraying fuel. I took it for a test drive with the reluctant wife next to me and it died 6 times in 4 miles. I had to bleed air from the fuel filters to get it to start again.

Thanks everybody for all the feedback.

Arlyn

 

[bigtruck]

I recently recovered a new deuce,, and i'm in the process of ironing out a few of the minor problems i've encoutered,,,, one of which is a leaky manifold heater nozzle.... After inspecting the leak,,, i immediately noticed that the return line is missing and the return port in the nozzle has been plugged... This truck was purchased direct from the government,, and seems to have been rebuilt (fresh paint,, updated hand stamped data plate,,, along with other standard indicators),,, so i'm curious if this modification could have been performed on purpose to address a separate (but related) problem....

I don't expect to be using the manifold heater often (if ever), so i'm willing to disable the system if it will effectively prevent fuel leaking onto the turbo,, will remove the potential of fuel leaking into the manifold (when is shouldn't be),,,,,, and can be accomplished without negatively impacting anything else.....

Does the pump run all the time...? If so why....? The manifold heater switch in the dash only controls the solenoid valves,, not power to the pump...?

 

[bigtruck]

This morning, I plugged the supply line on the manifold heater fuel pump for now... I'll probably plug it at primary injection pump when i get the time, and perhaps remove the system...

 

[airmech3839]

Mine just started to leak and am having the long cranking cycles when cold...I would hardly if ever need the fuel manifold heater in Central GA and would love to just plug system till I can get nozzle fixed. Where is the best place to disconnect so as to not have any problems...

 

[BimmerPower]

what exactly does the fuel manifold heater do? Is that the switch on the dash that is for cold starting only?

 

[airmech3839]

if you follow the hoses and find where it hooks up to the intake manafold you will notice a aircraft type spark plug (technically a igniter).....the way I understand it is that when you flip the switch it starts spraying fuel into the intake and at same time has a igniter/exciter that is popping like a mo fo and causing basicly a fire in your intake..(this is why you dont do it long)...then that warms the air and adds some fuel to the mix (wh..at isnt lit off) and then you shut it off and crank the truck.... but I may be wrong...I am sure that if I am wrong someone will be along shortly to correct me and introduce some wisdom....but that is what it looks like on my truck.... I will probably never use mine, block heater is a better alternative!!

Tracy

 

[Keith_J]

The function is to warm the air, making autoignition of the fuel possible when the injector pump "fires" for each cylinder. It is only used with the engine cranking, this draws the flame away. It will not function long if used while not cranking and will let raw fuel into the engine, BAD NEWS.

To make this engine run on low cetane fuels like gasoline, high compression is needed. This high compression is really bad when it is very cold outside because as the temperature drops, the density of air increases. This makes for very hard starting and very high pressures. Once the engine fires, the warmth decreases this problem. But before that, pressure in the cylinders can be very high. And this also cools the compressive heating.

Ether? Really bad idea with this very high compression engine. It can detonate before top dead center.

Most DI diesels of this size use 17:1 compression ratio. 22:1? Higher than even the indirect injected 6.2 diesel of the CUCV fame.

 

[MCHoward]

a possible cause of o-ring falure is the ultra low sulfur diesel we are stuck buying. new o-rings can be bought at most big rig truck repair shops. take your old o-ring with you to get the right size. ask for o-rings for a fuel system.

 

[MCHoward]

by the way i love my manifold preheater

 

[deathrowdave]

Orings are square cut rings not orings !!!! Almost impossible to locate . Can be purchased from McMaster Carr if need be. Memphis Equipment has new nozzles of a new design . No leaks ,no rings . Money well spent. Have a great and safe day,Dave

 

[BimmerPower]

Where and how do I plug the system up the safest way? Which and how many fitting are involved? I have to 'recover' my truck from the side of the road in a bit and want to make sure I have the right plugs. Thank you guys and gals

 

[deathrowdave]

The best I can remember 2 --1/8" NPT pipe caps will cap off the lines . 1 line is 1/4" plactic tube the other is 1/8" plastic tube , both have 1/8" NPT adapter fittings on them .

 

[Flyingvan911]

My nozzle started leaking yesterday. I just left the RV storage lot on the way to an airsoft game. I smelled exhaust and smoke started coming into the cab. I used some plastic and electric tape to divert the fuel drip away from the turbo then turned around and parked the deuce. I am going to buy and install a new nozzle then rebuild the old one for a rainy day.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I called Memphis Equipment today. They have them for $60.

 

[JasonS]

You don't have to remove the nozzle to replace the o-rings. Remove the lower part of the air filter canister and there is plenty of room. It is best if you have the o-ring ready as the parts can drop out. I had a piece of wire which I used to temporary retain the innards.

 

[Flyingvan911]

Thanks for the advice. Do you remember the sizes of the o-rings?