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GETT 23kw 120000btu - Applied Companies

NEIOWA

Well-known member
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I've struggled to find ducts in the past. I did get lucky last year and bought 2 pallets of new 12" ducts but they are hard to find. I don't have any extra as of today but that might change shortly once I get all my systems worked out. I will keep you in mind once I know what I will have to keep. The ones that I have not been able to find in quantity are the 18" returns. If you or anyone else find these I would also be a buyer for these. On a side note, I will be posting in the classified 50+ new UEC 60a equipment/load side panel mount plugs very shortly if you are planning on keeping your generator using all military cabling. (this is not meant to be an advertisement or classified ad, only meant to be informative)
I think the large ducts are all 16".
 

csheath

Active member
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FL
I'm curious, how did that work out? I was originally considering doing this also but after a lot of reading I found mixed opinions on this. I ended up just buying a crimper (not cheap) and then the correct dies (also not cheap) as I have plans for several cables. The crimper makes it very short work and does provide an excellent result but the cost is pretty ridiculous if you aren't using it often. I wish I would have just found someone semi local that could have done it for me but I looked everywhere and couldn't find anyone.
Not sure if it relates but I have soldered large 2/0 cable into battery cable ends and it worked great. The terminals I used for my backhoe were tinned brass and made for soldering. I just stuck the stripped cable into the terminal, heated the terminal with a propane torch, and fed solder in from the back till it was full.

For other large terminals made for crimping I have used vise grip pliers. I start at a loose setting, then adjust and crimp until I can't get it any tighter. I usually follow up with the same soldering method as above.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
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Location
Stratford/Connecticut
These have maybe a 1/4 inch hole for wire. If you want to crimp them it has to be with the proper aero terminal crimper. If then terminal pins get out of round they wont fit in the hole. The torch would be overkill for this.
 

rsms

Member
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4
6
Location
largo,fl
NEIOWA.... You enlightened me on something, the 120000 BTU ECU's use 18" return ducts while the smaller BTU ECU's appear to use 16" return like you mentioned. I'm not sure on what BTU the smaller ducts apply to but it appears to be the models that use 1 supply duct and 1 return duct as opposed to the 120k BTU's that have 2 supply and 1 return duct. I have one of the smaller ECU's that is destroyed and only for parts and I went to look at it after I saw you post on 16" returns to come to this conclusion. If anyone has other experiences it would be nice to know.
 

NEIOWA

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NE IOWA
You can go to your local hvac supply house they can make sheet metal adapters so you can fit different size ducting.
May end up with this as plan B temporarily if can't locate correct item (cheap).

The MILSPEC flexible ducts are nothing like the foil covered HVAC ducts. MIL are made of exposure the elements, being moved/relocated, have twist lock locating rings both ends, etc.
 

NEIOWA

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Location
NE IOWA
PM me your email address and I can send you the manual..

As for ducts...Ducts Unlimited are about as good as anyone....or Cardinal Rubber or Flexaust.....
Thanks for the genset manual. Anyone have a line on eviro unit manual?
 

Suprman

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I have the hvac manual I need the gen manual. Use sheet metal size adapters so you can use what mil ducting you can find even if the size is not an exact match.
 

NEIOWA

Well-known member
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127
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Location
NE IOWA
I have the hvac manual I need the gen manual. Use sheet metal size adapters so you can use what mil ducting you can find even if the size is not an exact match.
PM Paccur (1st page of this tread) for genset manual. He works for HDT.

Do you have electronic version of the hvac manual can post or email?
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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694
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Ok. The gett gens are Applied. Drash is hdt. I got the hvac manual from Applied. They said they didnt have the gen manual. I prefer the Drash gens they have really good support too. The Applied ones can be had for alot less than the Drash.
 

Billy2642

Member
116
16
18
Location
Yakima, wa
does anyone have both manuals? Just bought one of these sets. Got the motor to run but will only run with the cold start switch on. Also, when I switch machine from off to generator, it shuts off. Shuts off if I turn the cold start off, even after the machine is up to operating temp. Any help or guidance?
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
694
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Manuals are in the tm section. Did you drain the fuel tank first and change the filters? Cold kicks the rpms up. Check for dry rotted fuel line too. Once you get all that done and some fresh fuel in there chances are it will run better.
 

Billy2642

Member
116
16
18
Location
Yakima, wa
Manuals are in the tm section. Did you drain the fuel tank first and change the filters? Cold kicks the rpms up. Check for dry rotted fuel line too. Once you get all that done and some fresh fuel in there chances are it will run better.
Superman, do you have a voltage regulator kit for a MEP-804A? I was told you're the man to contact for them.
 

Billy2642

Member
116
16
18
Location
Yakima, wa
Still no luck with getting the GETT drash setup to run without being on cold start. Any other tricks you guys have experience with? Really need to get this thing fixed and moved
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
694
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Cold start kicks the rpms up higher than normal start. Can mask other issues that will prevent normal idle. Does it do anything in normal start mode? Did you completely drain the fuel tank and put a new fuel filter on. And replace any cracked lines? Fuel pump is mechanical. Round thing side of motor with fuel lines going to it. I had one with a bad fuel pump that would run on cold start. There is a filter screen in the pump too. Take the cover off see if its full of crap.
 

Billy2642

Member
116
16
18
Location
Yakima, wa
Cold start kicks the rpms up higher than normal start. Can mask other issues that will prevent normal idle. Does it do anything in normal start mode? Did you completely drain the fuel tank and put a new fuel filter on. And replace any cracked lines? Fuel pump is mechanical. Round thing side of motor with fuel lines going to it. I had one with a bad fuel pump that would run on cold start. There is a filter screen in the pump too. Take the cover off see if its full of crap.
if I leave it on normal, it will just crank and crank and never start. If I start it on cold start and then try to switch it to normal, it's like I hit the kill switch and kills the engine. If while it's running on cold start and I try to switch the selector to generator, same thing, it's like I hit the kill switch. I'll check the fuel pump screen and see if it's full of junk. It didn't have any fuel in it when I got it so I had put fresh in. Just changed the filter today with a wix filter and no change
 
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