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Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1

DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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I may and try to get some dyno time some day. Bout to fire it up and try the new third. Going to fill it with concoction of oil and ATF with axle off the ground (crane) and the rear driveshaft not connected to spin it and make sure it doesn't make any funny noises and flush out any old oil or crud. Then drain it and refill.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Air cleaner had critters living in it and the filter has ten pounds of silt in it.

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Had to heat the hat tube red hot and beat on it to get it off. Had already tried a needle gun and blunt air chisel all around it to loosen it up.
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Welding nuts to broken off cover bolts on bent axle donor punkin.
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Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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DavidWymore said:
Air cleaner had critters living in it and the filter has ten pounds of silt in it.


Had to heat the hat tube red hot and beat on it to get it off. Had already tried a needle gun and blunt air chisel all around it to loosen it up.

Welding nuts to broken off cover bolts on bent axle donor punkin.
View attachment 544438
Click to expand...
Kind of like you're bringing the dead back to life, DW.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Went out tonight and just ran it and hung out with it, listening and learning. Used a temp sensor on the exhaust manifold. #6 ran 30-50 degrees hotter than the rest. I also had my mechanic's stethoscope out, and the valve tick is loudest at the rear of the engine. The front injector lines have a definite pulse to them, but 5 and 6 just feel like vibration. Or maybe it's more pulse the closer to the pump the injector is. There is an audible whump, whump from the intake with the air filter off, but I can't tell if it corresponds to the valve tick or the pulse of the front injector.

Water temp stayed under or just at 100 which is what the mechanical gauge starts at, so I covered the radiator with cardboard for a few minutes and got it up to 120-145 depending on where I checked it. Gauge didn't come up. Orig gauge is MIA, looks like maybe the truck and engine wiring didn't jive when the engine was swapped. Wiring is all trash anyway.



Radiator and water pump appear to be working. The top of the radiator is warmer than the bottom. However, the water pump is noisy compared to the generator with the stethoscope. Sounds like bearing noise, I've heard it before. The water pump also leaks intermittently. We used to rebuild water pumps years ago, I wonder if this one might be rebuildable. Has anyone done it or tried? Thanks
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Thanks for the comments and encouragement everyone. Any thoughts on the dipstick? Maybe it hasn't been relocated properly? Seems like I heard the oil pan and dipstick are supposed to be turned around when installed in a deuce? I'm a bit blind going into all this because mine is so messed with, and I've never spent enough time around a decent one to know what everything is supposed to be like.
 
Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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Look in front of the turbo on the same area of the block that the dipstick is currently in now. There should be a pipe plug in the block. Remove it and put the dipstick there, then put the plug in the rear hole. Dipstick should come up just in front of the intake elbow.
Stop futzing about and get those valves adjusted! Wouldn't hurt to bring the injectors to an injector shop and have them pop tested, then set to pop at 3100 psi while you are at it.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Thanks. I only had a little time to fiddle around tonight. Valves are at the top of the list, probably next week. Going to pick up my Dodge and visit Jacks Surplus this weekend.

I was wondering about the injectors. I'll have to search around and find a shop. I'm sure there's none around me.
 
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DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Forgot to mention last night that fuel pressure has come up around 30psi IIRC and somewhat stabilized, and exhaust note at idle and rev has smoothed out. Maybe due to replacing fuel lines and/or running = getting air bled out, getting things loosened up.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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El Centro, CA
Keep forgetting to mention, when I very first drove it, I managed to get into Lo only once, can't get it again. When I put the lever down against the detent, it starts to whine like it's trying to catch, but then slips down past to the floor and goes into neutral. If I do it with the clutch out, the truck will start to want to move. Not a big deal since I'm going air shift (with rear PTO) eventually, but...

I learned something from Jack this weekend, and tested it tonight...the homebrew REB kit = shifter for the sprag works/shifts in 1 or R much better. Man that thing is a thumb buster if you're not careful on dry dirt with the front locked in. Not bad in mud, but it also doesn't steer for beans in mud. The yellow shifter is useless for anything except occasionally tying up the trans so that R is 1 and all other gears and FWD and R both and once and the trans is bound up. The flat bar shifts the sprag.

F1D79B4B-8782-4EF0-BE37-D34EC09F8807_zpsna0hn20w.jpg
 
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