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Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1

Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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DavidWymore said:
I started reading the TMs, and they were all idiot level stuff, took me a while to find the good stuff. There is good info in the forum, but it is scattered, and much of the reading is just wading through useless stuff. My thought was one concise thread with no other posts, or a video that works through the system from tank to injectors with what and how to check along the way.
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That's the genius of the TM's though, is that nothing is assumed; and as pointed out here often, the idea was to provide any 19 year old know-it-all the ability to service the vehicle (and do it right).
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Got HH off on my lunch break. Yup. Button fell off. If I had only....:roll::oops:aua:cookoo::mrgreen:

Retainer plate isn't broken. :cool:

Looks like the plunger should travel around .375". Mine is a little stiff in the upper end of it's vertical travel. Will investigate further after work.

Is there an improved button retaining method?
 
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Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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There is no improved method of retention so far. The only reason they pop off is because they sit for so long that old fuel gums up the head and when you spin it over it takes the spring pressure off and knocks the button off. Stick it back on there and be on your way. Don't feel bad about your approach to the problem. You should always start with the simplest solution and work from there. And don't be afraid to call if you need to, my number is in my sig line.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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So, if a guy is gonna fire one up that's been sitting, it would be wise to pop that plug out off the top of the HH and let some crud-breaker-upper soak in there a day or two first.

I noticed carb cleaner dissolved the crud off my primary filter (brass wafers) pretty good, but it may damage seals, etc.

Thanks for the offer...I'll try not to bother you unless I manage to strand myself. :-D
 
Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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Yes, if it has been sitting for any period of time over a year or so your best bet is to remove the HH, clean both it and the shutoff rod, and replace the O-rings before even trying to crank it. That is the only sure fire way to avoid damaging or destroying a hydraulic head. Better safe than shelling out another $300 you don't need to. You got lucky.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Maybe lucky, it ain't runnin yet. Wish I'd known or looked into it more.

I'm getting the oring that seals the back of the two bolt flange that the shutoff rod pivots in, but is there one inside there too? The arm is pressed on behind the nut, don't want to remove if not necessary. Feels like a super precision honed fit with no o-ring.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Grr, we don't have the Viton in stock, but I'm itching to put it together and try it. Do they HAVE to be Viton? I kinda doubt it...

Thanks!
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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frank8003 said:
DavidWymore said:
Why? - Mostly just because my Deuce Fever has flared up, and once I get started at something, I can't quit until I figure it out. QUOTE]

He does it because He can
Just read
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Haha, yeah I guess that's about it right there.

EDIT: How about this? Because a Deuce I can drive around if only in the yard messing around and pulling the water trailer is MUCH cooler than a Deuce that sits in the corner and rots. 8)
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Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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You can get a set of all three o-rings from member Welldigger for $12 and they are Viton. There is the small one that seals the shutoff rod behind the two screw flange, and there are two larger ones that seal the head to the injector pump itself. Just have a little patience. If you put it back together right it WILL run... Provided there are no major internal engine problems. Order the o-ring kit from Welldigger and wait. Do it right the first time.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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I run/own (family) a good size general machine and welding/ industrial supplies shop, and one of the many things we fix/sell is hydraulic cylinders, etc.

I'll have Vitons here tomorrow...but I did get impatient, used std Orings and drove it around the yard tonight. I'm stoked. Thanks! Kind of a life long dream come true.

EDIT :

I will need to replace some (most) of the injector lines and install the proper seals/boots where they attach to the HH, so I don't mind having to go back in and install the Vitons.Lots of rust and crud in the connections, almost didn't get the #1 HH nut broke loose from the tube without messing up the tube. Unscrewed it from the HH after I got the HH off. Dropped it in the vibrating solvent/ceramic media parts cleaner for 10 mins, tapped it against a vise with a hammer and blunt air chisel, heated it, soaked with oil...finally clamped the line in the vise and used a tube that fit over the line end to drive the nut upwards and break it loose.
 
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DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Discovered there's nothing wrong with the transmission other than somebody disconnected the connection between the transmission and transfer case and turned it into two separate shifters.

EDIT: actually, nasty rattle in 1 and 5
 
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Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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That is a manual engagement kit, looks like a homemade attempt at an reb kit. It just converts the sprag case to actually be locked in when you want it to, including in reverse. Nothing wrong with that. Glad you got it running, I told you it would run.
 
DavidWymore

DavidWymore

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Jeepsinker said:
You should be fine with the way that is set up David. You just have a shift lever to engage the front drive instead of an air switch on the dash.
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That's what I figured, and the way I like it-manual. It's uh, very "farm-brew" though. There's a turn turn buckle bolted to the rear inside of the cab to tension the T-case shifter.

Gotta get rid of the 20 other levers in the cab left over from the water truck apparatus...
 
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